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Rolling at Idle.

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T

Tornsteel

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What might be making my Revo roll at Idle. I have adjusted the as low as possible. I've had it so low that the truck would die or not want to start and it still wants to roll.

Things that I've changed:

I adjusted it to shift sooner. Only about 1/16th turn.

Replaced the Brake Cam.

Some how I messed up the throttle trim. It is almost pegged counter clockwise just to keep it off of the stop on the throttle rod.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks from a Newbe.
 
Last edited:
try lowering your idle screw little by little till it will eventually stay still at idle and not die on you
 
keep lowering the idle screw with your throttle trim set at zero. and you want your carb opening to be 1mm
 
is it idling high? wich maybe cousing the clutch to grab. to fix your thottle trim, just pull the throttle servo horn off and reset the trim back to zero on the remote. when doing so, take off the air filter at the carb so you can see if the barrel is closed when at the nutruel position. when you start it back up, youll have to do just a little bit of adjusting from the remote. once you do that, then check your idle screw, but dont go crazy on it. most idle problims are from the low speed needle, but i think youve allready tried that..good luck and let us know if it helps..
 
Your throttle trim should be zero, all the way off. that's when you adjust the idle screw. The trim is just for starting or warming up. You should also adjust the idle with the trigger in the full brake position, then you know it won't stall when brake is applied.
If it still wants to crawl, try richening your LSN slightly.
You also need to check your clutch. It's possible the spring or springs have weakened, and the shoes engage too soon.
 
Is that the bell? Thanks for the great advice guys. I'll try getting the trim back to zero. I tried adjusting the linkage before but the carb wouldn't open all the way. I guess that I didn't spend enough time playing with the linkage. As for the idle I thought I had it set pretty good yesterday, It was set really low. Guess not. I think that I'll try and richen the LSN some more. I'll keep after it. I'll be in and out while playing to check for more tips. Thanks again!
 
Yes, the shoes in the clutch bell.
You need to find the magic spot between the LSN and the idle screw. You also need to make sure you still get a good take off. If it gets sluggish pulling out, you've richened too much.
 
Got it(LSN).
Still working on the Throttle linkage to get the throttle trim back to zero. I put the horn back on after zeroing the trim and now the carb won't open all the way at full throttle. Any idea's. I know I saw that around here some were.
 
Got done w/ the linkage on the throttle.

1. Pulled the horn on the servo.
2. Zeroed the trim.
3. Loosened the stop on the linkage rod.
4. Put the horn back on.
5. Put the stop up against the horn (not to tight).
6. Tested the throttle. The barrel wouldn't open all the way in the carb..
7. Twisted the carb a little (clockwise).
8. Looks good but the barrel is still poking out about 1 to 3/14 of a Mill at WOT. Tried to twist the carb. more but the little arm (for the throttle linkage) on the end of the carb would hit the flywheel. That little arm is adjusted to the 55 deg. as suggested.


Results:

Throttle trim set at zero now.

Down sides:

Barrel still showing at WOT.
 
If you're looking down the carb neck and still seeing about 1mm of the barrel, it's not a problem. You should still get full throttle at that point, and fighting to get it farther probably won't gain anything.
If you are able to open it fully with the trim knob, then you have missed something in the linkage setup. Was your Rx and Tx on, and did you install the servo horn with the servo at its' neutral position, with the trim at zero?
It might be a matter of one more spline on the servo.
 
Yes the TX and the RX where on. Every thing was in the neutral setting. Also the trim was at zero. I think just as you would have done it. BUT it think I found the problem for the barrel not fully opening. After I figured the linkage and carb. position out I hadn't recharged the RX battery yet (from the day before), because I wanted to run it down before the next charge. SO after I had a full charge on the RX Bat. I hooked it back up and the barrel fully opened (just right)! I wasn't able to find the post for twisting the carb. and adjusting the carb. So I just winged it. It turned out great. Thanks for all the help.

I wasn't able to run the truck today (down pour out side). So I just did some maintenance. I will be working on the rolling while idling problem next. Might not be until Mon. because I have to go back to work and pay for all of the parts that I'm going to break.

Any way any idea's on the rolling while idling will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Sean
 
If it's still rolling with the idle down as low as you can get it without stalling, you'll need to check the clutch shoes and springs. You might have a broken piece in there keeping on of the shoes from closing. Other than the idle, that's about the only thing to check.
 
SWEET! I think this might be it. After trying to slow the idle over and over again. I started the motor today and went to take off and nothing. It was like the gears or something was jammed. So I gave it a push and it was back to normal. Thinking this was weird and that nothing that I did today (tuning wise) to keep the truck from rolling at idle helped. I decided to take Rolex's advice and check the clutch bell. As soon as I started pulling the bell off of the crank, a couple of pieces fell out. They were from one of the shoes. Looking at the shoes, on one of them part of the end of it was missing. I hope that this is the problem. I'll be replacing the shoes on Fri.. I'll let you know if this helps.

Thanks again for the help.
 
Well it worked! It shifts now. It was the shoes in the bell. I have to rev the motors a little more on take off now but seems to be working good. Will it take off better after the shoes get more broken in?
Also the new Orion Marathon 1600 Battery for the receiver seems to have worked. No loss of signal.
 
The reason you have to rev more is because of the new springs. Either your old ones were wearing out, or these are stronger. You should get more control with a clutch that engages a little later. Once you get used to it, you'll probably like it. If not, you can change the springs.
 

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