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Revo wont start

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bluecostas

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Hi, recieved my Revo last week and have been trying in vain to start the thing.

Both myself and the hobby shop guy have tried everything we can think of but still wont start.

We have used different glow plugs, used seperate plug starters from the ez starter as this is sometimes the problem i hear. we've obviously checked to make sure it is not flooded. is it just mine? The thing is i have had it started once, but it cut out when i removed the starter.

I bought from the states and had it shipped. sending it back will cost me too much and if they do replace i'll have to pay imoprt charges AGAIN.

Please help if you can, I'm very annoyed and frustrated at paying $500 on a piece of SH*T that doesn't even start!
 
you might have already tried, but here is a couple of things I would do.
-take the high speed needle completly out & use the ez start to flush fuel through it.
-take out your glowplug, hook it back up to the blue wire and hold the threads of the glowplug against the cooling head, press the ez start. The plug element should glow bright orange.
-make sure your needles are set right, hsn 4 turns out, lsn flush.
- turn up your idle speed [clockwise]
 
Once you have checked the things above and it still doesn't work make sure that your EZ start battery if fully charged. If that doesn't do it try dumping some fuel straight into the carb. By the way, if nothing works just email Traxass customer support and they should take care of you.
 
also try heating up the head with a hair dryer or a heat gun , this will loosen up the parts and allow it to turn over easier , dont give up we will get you going !!!! :smoke:
 
I know a couple of guys that have had the same problem with thier revos. With thiers they had to replace the oneway bearing. This apparently seems very common with the revos. One friend had this problem occur several times. Call Traxxas and they will send you out one for free. Sometimes the LHS will replace it for free if you bring the old one to them. Hope this helps.
 
If the engine is turning over, through it's compression strokes, it's not the one way bearing. If that were the case, the starter would spin freely.
In the earlier posts, there were several things mentioned that you need to check.
HSN, 4 turns out from closed.
LSN flush with the INNER ring, not the outer ring with the linkage.
Idle opening about 1 1/2 mm, or the thickness of a credit card. You might need to open it some more with the throttle trim, just for starting and warm up.
Check the glow plug. Make sure it glows brightly.
Plug the exhaust while spinning the starter to prime the engine till you see fuel get through the line to the carb.
Once fuel is in the carb, if it still won't start, after several tries, pinch the fuel line while spinning the starter for about 30 seconds, and see if it will start then. If it does, then it's flooding, and by pinching it, you leaned it.

I'll keep an eye on this thread and follow it through. We'll get it running.
Just let me know what you did, and what the engine did, and post it here. I'll let you know what to do next.
Please don't adjust any needles till I know what it does, then I'll tell you what changes to make.
 
ok, got the engine started and idling fine. We had checked the bearing and done all of the above but in the end it was down to not having a completely fully charged starter battery. Now it starts every time, or at least it did last night. The problem i have now is that as soon as i apply throttle it cuts. Both cogs used to engage the gearbox are running freely. As soon as it tries to move it cuts, seems like there's some resistance preventing it from moving but can't work out what's doing it????
 
If you are at the default settings for the engine then it may be something as simply as just leaning out the HSN (too much fuel keeps the engine too cool). Or it could be idle stop screw misadjusted (should be set to 1mm on the carb opening). If you leave the glow ignitor connected for about 20sec after you start your engine then try and give it gas if it runs this could mean you should start leaning out your HSN 1/8th turn at a time. Just make sure your glow plug is good and glow ignitor is charged first though.
 
could just be bad luck and a faulty revo. a friend of mine had the same problem with his maxx, it wouldnt start and it turned out the the carb was cracked
 
Until you have gone through stage one and part of stage two of the break-in procedure, the 2.5R will run a little erratic. Stalling is not uncommon and getting it moving for the first few minutes can be tricky.

Also, make sure the battery for the receiver is fully charged and then test the forward/reverse servo and double check that the brake is not engaging when the throttle is released.

Can you roll the Revo when the engine is off? How about when it is idling?
 
Put the nose of the truck against something so it can't get away from you.
Start it, and let it idle to warm up. Once it's warm, do slight blips on the throttle. If if blubbers and stalls, lean the LSN slightly and try it again. If it cuts quickly, richen the LSN and try again. Don't be hitting a lot of throttle, just short blips till you find the happy spot for the LSN. You might have to adjust the idle screw, since adjusting the LSN will affect the idle. Once it's warmed up, and idling well, pinch the fuel line close to the carb, and count the seconds till it stops. It should be between 3 and 4. Lower than that is lean, above that is rich.
Once it's behaving with the blips, put it on the ground and keep going with the proper break in.
 
Now that you have it started and idling please listen to Rolex, and follow his instructions.

Although several members here know how to tune and run nitros it's better to have One guy helping you change One thing at a time.

Rolex is a moderator, and will guide you through the entire process of getting it broken in and tuned. He's always around and will stick with you , so he will answer sooner or later..Too many people giving advice will get you going in too many direction for some serious confusion and frusteration.

I would love to help you, but I can't be sure when I'd be back to answer your questions.

BTW now that it's idling half the battle is over.
 
Rolex, are you the nitro mesiah? seem to know evrything!!

anyway, managed to get the thing running yesterday and broke it in with no trouble. turned out it just needed to warm up and loosen up a bit. also richened the needle. Thanks for the help nonetheless :cheers:
 
Pesky Traxxas 2.5s are my specialty. The Revo 2.5R is a very reliable engine compared to the Tmaxx. It's a cooling head thing.
I'm glad to hear it's running. Enjoy it, the Revo is amazing.
If you need any info in the future, we're here for you.
 
well now u mention it Rolex, i do have another problem that arose today

My Revo changes gear far too early.

I've tried adjusting the shift via the whole on the gearbox, but this doesn't seem to effect the shift at all.

it will keep in first as long as i'm stupidly gentle on the throttle, otherwise shifts up almost immediately.

when it shifts up i get very little power and it rev's its tits off

what do i do?? :shrug:
 
Oh no. Sorry man, you get no more help from me. :jk:

You need to adjust it some more. The last one I adjusted took 4 attempts till it shifted correctly. You're better off doing it several times, rather than going too far with one try.
Think of it as a clock at noon. You want it to shift earlier? Move it counter clockwise to 11, 11 being earlier than noon. You want it to shift later? move it to 1 O'clock, with 1 being later than noon.
 
u know i should really think before posting these problems.

i think it was a loose slipper clutch, was thinking about it last night, and checked the clutch which was too loose, so i think it was just slipping way to freely. explains the problem.

will test this afternoon
 
yep, that was the prob....runs well.

now for some tuning and adjusting of the gear-shift mechanism and i'm sorted

What do i look for when tuning, i dont have a temp guage. a slight trail of smoke?
 
Run it till it's completely warm. If it idles well, and has good take off, bring it in and pinch the fuel line close to the carb. Count the seconds. It should speed up slightly and then stop between 3-4 seconds. Without a temp gauge, that's the safety check for the LSN.
For the HSN, WOT should run well, with good top end, no blubbering or cutting out, and a trail of smoke.
Tuning is all about sound and performance. Temps are the final safety check during hot summer weather.
 

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