• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • ✓ Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • ✓ RC tips & troubleshooting
    • ✓ Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • ✓ Share builds & upgrades

revo questions

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
A

andrewn5998

RCTalk Member
Messages
39
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
just tried to start my new 3.3 motor and no luck so hopefully better luck tommorow, i just got the truck yesterday used needing a motor it was originally a 2.5 but i got the 3.3 engine for a great deal, so i got everything charged up and tried to start but no luck so i was messing with the remote and i noticed the truck would not steer, i picked it up and looked and the servos are moving but the wheels are turning, since I'm new to rc's what would cause this? and i noticed after i installed the motor i noticed the gear on the motor dont touch the gear on the truck, is that right or is something wrong there?
 
ok...so I'm assuming u meant that the servos are moving but the wheels aren't turning. take a look at the link here. it's the traxxas website for the revo model that you have:
http://www.traxxas.com/support/kb_search.php?action=artikel&cat=0&id=245

also you need to adjust the gear mesh on the motor mount of your revo. check it all out in the manual of the revo. u should find ur answers there. as far as starting. did u prime the engine? is ur glow plug good? glow starter good? is ur 3.3 brand new? it could be a slew of things causing you troubles. i recommend taking the glow plug out, putting it in the ignitor and seeing if it glows. that a way u know the plug is good. so check that off. carb adjusted correctly? their should be a 1.0 mm gap between the slide and carburetor...hope all this helps buddy. good luck. and i can't stress enough the read over the manual...i know your anxious to get 'er runnin but trust me...reading the manual thouroughly will pay off in the long run...
 
its a brand new motor, and the manual said not to adjust the carb until i get it running, i can get it to run for about 5 seconds then it shuts off, i been reading the manual so hopefully i can get it thismorning i have everything charging again.
 
andrewn5998 said:
its a brand new motor, and the manual said not to adjust the carb until i get it running, i can get it to run for about 5 seconds then it shuts off, i been reading the manual so hopefully i can get it thismorning i have everything charging again.
Click to expand...

You may have to lean the low speed needle 1/4 turn.

Or the glow plug is no good, but should be ok.
 
how do i adjust the mesh gear on my motor i can't find that nowhere in the manual do i just shim the left side of the engine until the teeth on the 2 gears meet?
 
you can pivot the motor up and down by loosen the two long bolts on the sides of the mount. and adjust it so the clutch bell touches the spur gear. not snug though. u should be able to run a piece of paper through them both. i personally just let them both touch and move the motor away a little bit. just enough so when u hold the clutch bell with a flat blade screw driver that u can move the spur gear a tiny bit in each direction. not to much though. for newbies, i recommend the paper method...
 
thanks for the info got the truck running took about 15 minutes but the new 3.3 motor sounds mean as hell too bad i can't break it in and play, now I'm looking why it wont steer, the servos move but the wheels dont i pulled the part off that the servos hook to then goes to the wheels, could the spring in it be to strong, i tried to move it with my hands and it moves hard as hell, to me it seems like too much for those little servos
 
Your pillow ball caps are too tight. Loosen them until there is play, then only tighten them enough to get rid of the play. Do them one at a time.
 
the batteries for the truck are making me mad i hook the charger to the truck the light on the charger blinks for about 30 seconds then turns solid green saying its charged, so i mess with the truck for a minute and the truck dont have enough power to give it throttle so i charge another batterypack i have and same thing, so i went and bought a new battery pack and same deal, would it be my charger? or something else
 
The traxxas charger isn't very reliable. Have you tried to hook the battery back to the charger after it says it's charged? Does the battery get warm?
 
Could be the charger, or the battery is totally dead. Try unplugging the charger a after the light goes solid, then plug it back in. Try this a few times, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. You're getting a 'false peak'.
 
Personally, my luck with the traxxas charger has been good. Maybe down to the fact that i have a multi-volt powerpack that is rated at 1.4a at 12v.

If the green indicator does go to a solid green, do as has been mentioned, un-hook, then re-hook the charger to the battery (or is that vice a versa ??)

If that does not help, try connecting the battery to the charger before you plug the charger in. Once you switch the charger on, it should do it's job without a problem. I did notice, that if i switched the charger on first then attached the battery, the battery would not fully charge. By attaching the battery then switching on the charger, it actually does it's job and charges the battery properly and does not "half charge" the battery.
 
That's the same charger that I have.

Yes, it is a good charger, Just connect the battery to the charger before switching the power on and you are golden, something I was always taught to do.....................

It works ok for me if i hook the battery to the charger before switching the power on for the unit.

I always used a Ripmax "Pro Peak Xing SF delta peak 4-7 cell fast charger" rated for DC fast charge of 4.8 - 8.4v NiCd / NiMh packs with 10mA - 35mA Trickle Charge Current", giving charging rates of 0.1A, 0.3A and 0.5A

Here's what i'm talking about (Pic is a link to it)



Then I got the traxxas charger in a deal with a couple of used rigs and never once have I looked back at that Xing charger..........

Strange really, the traxxas charger is better than the Xing one for me.


For me, the traxxas charger is my everyday, go-to charger now. Even for 7.2v race packs.......
 
Last edited:
my quick start quit working on me tried 3 different batteries and still nothing so i removed it and installed the pull start which will be easier for me less stuff to carry, got the truck running but only has reverse can't get it to go forward, begining to think i know why the guy sold it so cheap any suggestions on how to get it to go forward

figured out reverse the servo quit working so i put it in forward manually
 
yes, i know an easy way to make it go forwards, rip out reverse by fitting a Forwards only kit :)

Hope that does not come across as a smart a$$ remark, for it is meant in total honesty. Reverse is a complete nightmare and having had it destroy one tranny, i will not make the same mistake.
As an aside, If you ever find you can not find a p[ull start unit for the engine, try a thunder tiger pro 21 pull starter unit and one way bearing. i have that on my TRX engine and it's stronger than the trx unit.

Only thing you need to do is slide a bearing onto the one way starter shaft of the engine to space out the one way bearing.

Metalhead Matt said:
If it idles too high, it won't shift between gears properly.
Click to expand...

No offense, but how do you work that out ???

If a tranny does not shift properly, it comes down to either wear to the second gear pawl clutch, mis-adjustment, an oily owb on the first gear or the engine not reaching optimum RPM. Trust me, these clutches I know only too well having had many a fight to get my second gear clutch sorted out.

An engine idling high, will most likely want to drive the rig to creep forwards, by attempting to engage the clutch, at the same time increasing wear to the clutch shoes wearing them out a lot faster than otherwise they would with a properly adjusted idle speed.


*****EDIT*****

Metal, i just twigged what you meant by that !!! Basically, what you are saying is that whilst at a standstill on a rig with a high idle, the reverse / forward mechanism will not engage because the vehicle will be trying to engage the transmission gears because the high idle is trying to engage the gears and drive the rig forwards. right ?


*****EDIT*****
 
Last edited:
id like to keep the reverse since i just got it to play not race but I'm pretty sure my servo went because before it would shift but now it does nothing so thats no biggie i will just order a new one and wanting to get new steering servos to thanks for the help i feel a lot better that i got it to run, now if this stupid blizzard outside ever lets up i can hopefully get it broke in and play until the snowmobile time
 
If you intend to run in snow, you are going to need to waterproof the servo's and electronics. snow melts to water and water damages electronics.
 
probably wont really be running in snow, but i do want to get all the waterproof servos just to be safe
 

RC Builds

Back
Top