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Revo budget racer

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platgof

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You guys are killing me with all the money you spend on your Revos! Ijust picked up a Revo from a friend and want to race it, but I am not going to get it race ready with all those goodies, nope! I just want to find some good low profile tires/wheels to raise the gearing, and adjust the gearing if necessary with different gears, but I have no clue. I want to keep it simple as I do not expect to win races, I just want to have fun and see how I do against the boys. I picked up my Revo an hour ago and have never even seen one run before as I have been messing with electrics so far. In fact the batteries are charging right now. I need advice from someone who is also on a budget and knows how to get the most bang fir the buck from their Revo. I will buy what is necessary to keep it running in one piece. I need to figure out how to tell the wife about this purchase as she is coming in today from vacation and does not know:whhooo:!
 
Well if you live through the weekend :hehe:................... j/k.

I'm on a budget and my wife still complains about how much I spend. I pretty much replace what I break along the way. The Revo should be pretty good straight out of the box. I'm not a racer so I'll let someone else talk about how to set it up.
A couple of inexpensive upgrades that are good for all Revo owners (I've done all these):
Motorsaver Air Filter ...... $20
Fuel Filter ......... $5-$10
Fail-safe............. $20 (on-line)
Shock/Spring covers $10 (on-line) they can help prevent premature wear
When you break an A arm, consider buying RPM replacements (lifetime warrenty)

When you're on a pretty strict budget........like me..... it's a good idea to just replace as you break and try to get the upgraded stuff at that time. Why replace it if it's not broken?
 
I ran it today on thick grass an I already fried the clutch and glow plug! This is one expensive sport to be in. ow I am going to have to upgrade the clutch as I do not want another stock one. Any suggestions for a tougher one?
 
I think cooldude is right, aluminum is the way to go with an upgraded clutch. I wish I would have spent the extra $15 and gotten an aluminum instead of the $10 MIP racing clutch.
 
yeah i have the integy three shoe clutch and its a great.
one up grade you would want to make is definetly a high flow air filter
and good tuned pipe
FOC and short ratio tranny gears

i dont know if you have a 2.5R or a 3.3 but if you have a 3.3 definetly go with the center differential and rear break coversion.
 
Would running this clutch in high grass still burn it up? Is changing a clutch a chore?
 
I run my revo in the grass, but only within a few days after I cut it. It doesn't take too long to do, easiest if you remove the motor or the tranny, taking out either one will give you room to do it. Tranny is probably easier IMO to take out, 4 bolts on the bottom and the 2 keeper screws for the CVD, plus unhooking the front brake and shifter if yours has one.
Mine wasn't hard to replace, but I don't have experience with the 3 shoe styled clutches.
 
I'm in exactly the same boat I'm 15 and have no budget


pins and 17mm hexs are the #1
then a high flow air filter( motor saver is my fav.)
a good pipe the resonater does good or the trinty
get the platinum radio boxes and throttle mount(20 bucks and saves alot of weight)
ditch the stock servos and get a foc

then your doing pretty good if you have a 3.3 do the center diff and rear brake it makes a whole new beast

hope this helps oh and +1 on the rpm arms
 
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Would running this clutch in high grass still burn it up? Is changing a clutch a chore?

If you're running any clutch in high grass, deep sand, mud, or anything providing a constant resistance, you will burn it up, regardless of what kind of clutch it is. Even if you dont destroy the shoes, you will overheat the clutch and can warp the clutch bell and spur gear, so watch for that.
 
i run my revo in grass sand and sometimes mud and I'm still useing the same 3 shoe clutch. i think there great

i would say put as much RPM stuff on your revo as you can afford.
for one they have a lifetime warranty
second they are WAY stronger than stock and chances of breaking on during a race is limited
and third, there pretty darn cheap
 
Definitely go with the RPM. I wasn't saying it couldn't be done Matt. Just that if he's running in grass that's tall enough to melt the stock clutch that quick, if he runs in the same stuff with an aluminum clutch and it doesn't give out, he could still have severe heat issues.
 
Definitely go with the RPM. I wasn't saying it couldn't be done Matt. Just that if he's running in grass that's tall enough to melt the stock clutch that quick, if he runs in the same stuff with an aluminum clutch and it doesn't give out, he could still have severe heat issues.

i know exactly what you mean. i melted my stock clutch I'm pretty sure the first day it arrived at my house. been using aluminum ever since.

all i can say is after a nice run dont go and try touching your CB. i burned myself a couple of times lol

i use aluminum over composite anyday, just make sure you keep in mind the heat issue like charlie said and you should be fine. or keep a good supply of shoes, springs, and CBs and bearings and such lol
 
I was in very tall grass and running it wide open for 3 minutes, so I was asking for trouble! The three shoe aluminum clutch sounds like the way to go.
 
go with a 3 shoe clutch..

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/1_24_90/products_id/24430

i have this one and man sure is worth the money..


That looks exactly like the M2C 3 shoe I am running.Mabey the only difference is price and the M2C comes with 3 different sets of springs to tune the clutch engagment.I ripped the clutch pins out of two stock platinum 40mm flywheels and cracked two other stock clutch shoes at the mountingn holes.I am done with the stock stuff.The M2C is pretty salty but I have had 0 ploblems and the tuning options are useful.The kit comes with medium shoes but thet also sell soft and hard.This is in the top 5 best hop ups for the buck on my revos,now all three have this clutch.
 
I feel brilliant now! I found out the slipper clutch was the item smoking and adjusted it to get some bite. I must have really wore it as it is getting little bite but it is moving. How do you tell how tight the slipper clutch should be? Should you be able to turn it by hand easily I hope these are not expensive?
 
The pads are cheap, I think Traxxas says to tighten it until it's difficult to move by hand but still turnable. I don't think you want the spur gear leaving permanent groves in your hand when turning it but it should be fairly snug. LOL
 
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