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Revo 3.3 help

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N

newnitro

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Hey everyone,

My friend just gave me a revo. After a couple days of fixing wires getting a new glow plug I finally got it running. The first time I drove it I noticed that it kinda crept foward with me not pushing on the gas. Is this normal? Then after a couple of mins as soon as I started it, it would go full speed and no matter what I did with the controller it just kept going and then it just like stalls itself out or floods itself. So for fear of screwing the engine up or something does anyone know how to set everything back to factory settings? Or is it just a quick easy noob fix any help would be greatly appreciated.
 
Make sure it has a throttle return spring, a fully charged battery, and a faisafe would be good too. Make sure the transmitter batteries are good and before you run it have someone hold on to it while you walk away and do a range test. The creeping could be a bad clutch, but it's probably just a high idle. Try the low end needle at flush with it's body, high needle at 4-4-1/2 turns out and for idle a 1mm gap in the carb slide.
 
Good call 2revo I just had to lower my idle and now it dosen't pull at all and dosent die. Now another question after I ran it for a while i noticed some gas that was leaking up from around the glowplug. Do I have the wrong size glowplug or do I need to seal something? (I saw videos about it on youtube)?
 
Make sure that you have the copper gasket on the glow plug before you put it in the mill. . .if you have fuel leaking out around the glow plug that's generally a tell tale sign that you don't have the copper gasket
 
If the copper washer is on there, try to tighten it up a hair. Be careful. It doesn't take a whole lot to strip the threads. If you feel you have it tightened properly and it still leaks, flip the copper washer over and see if that helps.
 
Metalhead Matt said:
If the copper washer is on there, try to tighten it up a hair. Be careful. It doesn't take a whole lot to strip the threads. If you feel you have it tightened properly and it still leaks, flip the copper washer over and see if that helps.
Click to expand...
:goodpost::goodpost::goodpost::goodpost:
 
I'll have to try that when I get home with the washer. On a side note when I pulled the old glow plug out there was no washer on it. Is the washer required or optional?
 
Ok all the above problems have been fixed. I figured out why it just revs to and then stalls out. It's the little black plastic piece on the back of the diff? There are a couple of teeth completly gone and its smooth so when the teeth that come off the engine meet, it just get's stuck in the toothless groove. Now do I have to buy a whole new diff or can I just unbolt the old piece and slap a new one on there.
 
Cool thanks, I just found a bunch on rcplanet.com now to get the right teeth count do I just take mine off and count how many there are? Also do you happen to know a good brand for them or will any work?
 
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Stick to the TRX plastic ones, they are cheap to replace and will take the knock instead of the transmission gears, not only that, they are chep to replace too. They have the toothcount molded onto one of the faces, Either 40t , 38t or 36t.

All you need to do to remove the spur gear, is remove the three socket head allen-bolts that hold it to the slipper clutch, nothing more, and it will simply pull away with a little gentle backwards pressure. Providing you replace the spur gear with the same size part, you have no need to adjust the engine mount either. Nor, will you need to adjust the slipper nut.

Parts Details:

TRX-3953: Spur gear - 36-tooth

TRX-3954: Spur gear - 38-tooth

TRX-3955: Spur gear - 40-tooth

Clutch Parts:

TRX-4146X: Clutch shoes (2)/ spring

TRX-5214: Clutch bell (14-tooth)/5x8x0.5mm fiber washer (2)/ 5mm e-clip (requires 5x10x4mm ball bearings part #4609) (1.0 metric pitch)

TRX-5215: Clutch bell (15-tooth)/5x8x0.5mm fiber washer (2)/ 5mm e-clip (requires 5x11x4mm ball bearings part #4611) (1.0 metric pitch)

TRX-5216: Clutch bell (16-tooth)/5x8x0.5mm fiber washer (2)/ 5mm e-clip (requires 5x11x4mm ball bearings part #4611) (1.0 metric pitch)

TRX-5217: Clutch bell (17-tooth)/5x8x0.5mm fiber washer (2)/ 5mm e-clip (requires 5x11x4mm ball bearings part #4611) (1.0 metric pitch)
 
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Thanks everyone for all the great help. I oredered a couple new spur gears(man I hate being on a tiny island in the pacific) so in about a week I should be up and running.
 
It's very important to set your mesh right. Make sure to ask us any questions you may have when your parts arrive. That way you can get 'er going and keep 'er going. Even if you replace the spur with the same one, your mesh probably needs adjusted. That's most likely why it was stripped in the first place. Have some blue, removable locktite handy to use on the engine-mount bolts and the spur screws. Anywhere that a bolt or screw threads into metal.
 

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