• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

Revo 3.3 Bulletproof Transmission

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Armysolo

Military Veteran!
Military Veteran
RC Showcase: 2
Messages
59
Reaction score
144
Points
108
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
A while back I did the big block conversion on my revo. Stuck a Dynamite Big red in it, moved the tranny forward about 10mm and used some custom cut 2mm carbon fiber plates to lift it up, replaced the plastic drive shafts and CVDs with steel ones, did the diff upgrades and removed the electronics battery enclosure so I can use a 2s receiver battery.
20240810_183000.webp

Looks pretty sick with the proline ratrod body on it.
20240805_144404.webp

Shredded the original plastic gears but I was able to find some Robinson Racing steel FOC set. Little truck was hauling. After about 10 minutes, catastrophic failure.
20240426_142931.webp

Primary shaft snapage...
Bought a few and they both snapped within 15 minutes. It appears the pin hole is the failure point. After talking to a few people and one of the tooling guys at work I came up with the idea to have him use a piece of 6mm tool steel. I had him mill out a flat spot where the 2mm pin would go and use some M3 set screws. And instead of having him mill the ends down for the 5mm id bearings I had him keep the shaft at 6mm and I got some 6x11x4 bearings.
20240511_212236.webp

Drilled out the 2mm hole in the primary clutch and tapped for a M3. This was tedious because I had to carefully file and area that might have become raised from drilling and tapping, the bearing needs to fit snuggily on the primary clutch, but can't be too tight where you feel resistance in the bearing.
Had to punch out each 2mm hole(except the one on the slipper shaft) to 2.5m and tap for M3. This sucked. Broke a couple of taps but eventually I got everything done.
One thing I realized after I had him do it, I forgot about bearing tolerance. The shaft is 6mm exactly. But the problem is the bearing ID is 6mm. So I had to stick the tool steel into my drill press and run some sand paper up and down it until the final thickness was about 5.95mm.
And here's the finished product.
20240511_223253.webp

For those that have access to a machinist here's basically what I had him do
TRX5393 Primary Shaft Tool Steel RR FOC 6mm Bearings Set Screws.webp
 
Yeah, that's not a great fix... better send it to me and you should go back to stock! 🤣🤣🤣
I actually just wanted to follow this thread to see how your fix goes.
I JUST bought a replacement trans for my 3.3 Revo. I will drop in this one as stock and look for the foc robinson stuff too.
Def keep us updatedon this!
Nice work! 👍🏻
 
A while back I did the big block conversion on my revo. Stuck a Dynamite Big red in it, moved the tranny forward about 10mm and used some custom cut 2mm carbon fiber plates to lift it up, replaced the plastic drive shafts and CVDs with steel ones, did the diff upgrades and removed the electronics battery enclosure so I can use a 2s receiver battery.View attachment 201257
Looks pretty sick with the proline ratrod body on it.
View attachment 201258
Shredded the original plastic gears but I was able to find some Robinson Racing steel FOC set. Little truck was hauling. After about 10 minutes, catastrophic failure.
View attachment 201259
Primary shaft snapage...
Bought a few and they both snapped within 15 minutes. It appears the pin hole is the failure point. After talking to a few people and one of the tooling guys at work I came up with the idea to have him use a piece of 6mm tool steel. I had him mill out a flat spot where the 2mm pin would go and use some M3 set screws. And instead of having him mill the ends down for the 5mm id bearings I had him keep the shaft at 6mm and I got some 6x11x4 bearings.
View attachment 201260
Drilled out the 2mm hole in the primary clutch and tapped for a M3. This was tedious because I had to carefully file and area that might have become raised from drilling and tapping, the bearing needs to fit snuggily on the primary clutch, but can't be too tight where you feel resistance in the bearing.
Had to punch out each 2mm hole(except the one on the slipper shaft) to 2.5m and tap for M3. This sucked. Broke a couple of taps but eventually I got everything done.
One thing I realized after I had him do it, I forgot about bearing tolerance. The shaft is 6mm exactly. But the problem is the bearing ID is 6mm. So I had to stick the tool steel into my drill press and run some sand paper up and down it until the final thickness was about 5.95mm.
And here's the finished product.
View attachment 201262
For those that have access to a machinist here's basically what I had him do
View attachment 201264
A while back I did the big block conversion on my revo. Stuck a Dynamite Big red in it, moved the tranny forward about 10mm and used some custom cut 2mm carbon fiber plates to lift it up, replaced the plastic drive shafts and CVDs with steel ones, did the diff upgrades and removed the electronics battery enclosure so I can use a 2s receiver battery.View attachment 201257
Looks pretty sick with the proline ratrod body on it.
View attachment 201258
Shredded the original plastic gears but I was able to find some Robinson Racing steel FOC set. Little truck was hauling. After about 10 minutes, catastrophic failure.
View attachment 201259
Primary shaft snapage...
Bought a few and they both snapped within 15 minutes. It appears the pin hole is the failure point. After talking to a few people and one of the tooling guys at work I came up with the idea to have him use a piece of 6mm tool steel. I had him mill out a flat spot where the 2mm pin would go and use some M3 set screws. And instead of having him mill the ends down for the 5mm id bearings I had him keep the shaft at 6mm and I got some 6x11x4 bearings.
View attachment 201260
Drilled out the 2mm hole in the primary clutch and tapped for a M3. This was tedious because I had to carefully file and area that might have become raised from drilling and tapping, the bearing needs to fit snuggily on the primary clutch, but can't be too tight where you feel resistance in the bearing.
Had to punch out each 2mm hole(except the one on the slipper shaft) to 2.5m and tap for M3. This sucked. Broke a couple of taps but eventually I got everything done.
One thing I realized after I had him do it, I forgot about bearing tolerance. The shaft is 6mm exactly. But the problem is the bearing ID is 6mm. So I had to stick the tool steel into my drill press and run some sand paper up and down it until the final thickness was about 5.95mm.
And here's the finished product.
View attachment 201262
For those that have access to a machinist here's basically what I had him do
View attachment 201264

A while back I did the big block conversion on my revo. Stuck a Dynamite Big red in it, moved the tranny forward about 10mm and used some custom cut 2mm carbon fiber plates to lift it up, replaced the plastic drive shafts and CVDs with steel ones, did the diff upgrades and removed the electronics battery enclosure so I can use a 2s receiver battery.View attachment 201257
Looks pretty sick with the proline ratrod body on it.
View attachment 201258
Shredded the original plastic gears but I was able to find some Robinson Racing steel FOC set. Little truck was hauling. After about 10 minutes, catastrophic failure.
View attachment 201259
Primary shaft snapage...
Bought a few and they both snapped within 15 minutes. It appears the pin hole is the failure point. After talking to a few people and one of the tooling guys at work I came up with the idea to have him use a piece of 6mm tool steel. I had him mill out a flat spot where the 2mm pin would go and use some M3 set screws. And instead of having him mill the ends down for the 5mm id bearings I had him keep the shaft at 6mm and I got some 6x11x4 bearings.
View attachment 201260
Drilled out the 2mm hole in the primary clutch and tapped for a M3. This was tedious because I had to carefully file and area that might have become raised from drilling and tapping, the bearing needs to fit snuggily on the primary clutch, but can't be too tight where you feel resistance in the bearing.
Had to punch out each 2mm hole(except the one on the slipper shaft) to 2.5m and tap for M3. This sucked. Broke a couple of taps but eventually I got everything done.
One thing I realized after I had him do it, I forgot about bearing tolerance. The shaft is 6mm exactly. But the problem is the bearing ID is 6mm. So I had to stick the tool steel into my drill press and run some sand paper up and down it until the final thickness was about 5.95mm.
And here's the finished product.
View attachment 201262
For those that have access to a machinist here's basically what I had him do
View attachment 201264
Was the slipper clutch tightened all the way down causing shaft to break ?
 
Was the slipper clutch tightened all the way down causing shaft to break ?
No it wasn't. I saw on many forums and facebook this was common for big block conversions. Once I saw at least 10 different posts I decided to stop troubleshooting and find a solution.

And,,, did that solve the breakage issue?
So far, yes. Ran a few tanks through it and it's been holding up pretty well. I had to reset the carb to factory so I've been working on getting it tuned in when I'm not working on some other projects I've got going on.
 
Back
Top