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Revo 3.3 broken motor mount, Carb etc.

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MrAllthat

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Hi guys, I'm new to nitro RC. I started with a redcat earthquake 3.5 which I broke in then bashed the hell out of. I just received my revo 3.3 that I bought used on eBay. The thing is an animal. It has a decent amount of aluminum upgrade parts and I added a roll cage since I don't like running bodies. I took it out to a church parking lot to get it tuned.
First issue was that I had to richen it up significantly from factory settings. High speed runs were running way hot and not much smoke at 4 turns out on the HS needle. Once I got a good HS setting I played with the LS needle until I got it doing wheelies off the line. It was idling too high at that point, even with the Carb gap around 1mm. I richened up a little bit and got a nice idle but no more wheelies.
Any advice on what I should have done differently there?


Now the main part of this post. Once I got it tuned I began screwing around jumping the bark mulch islands going way too fast :). I found off first hand that I need practice with control on jumps since I was landing on the cage more than the wheels. I probably had the biggest smile ever though. Until of course I noticed the pos cage was starting to bend. I kept driving since I had the factory plastic engine guard on still too. Of course I jumped a grass section, lost it pretty bad and ended up upside down on the pavement. Suddenly the rpms shot up and it ran full throttle until it stalled a couple secs later. I inspected it and found that the engine head had hit the ground. This stress cracked the motor mount on the frame side and engine side. Somehow the motor pushed into the spur gear which ate through the air filter tube and into the Carb. Somewhere in there the Carb snapped off at the base causing the rpm spike and stall. So picked up a new Carb, spur, and mm. Also am switching back to the factory air filter from the motor saver.
Does anyone have any advice on this engine setup? I really don't mind things breaking because I bashed them, but I don't want to lose an engine to external damage.

Sorry for the long read...

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You should always run a body even if you are running a rollcage. This will help minimize some of the damage you described.
 
Ill try it out. I guess I mostly don't like pulling the body to start it. Which isn't a problem with the ez start(until that becomes unreliable)

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Got it all together and running but found out the clutch was almost gone. Does anyone have a picture of a worn clutch next to a new one for comparison?

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Honestly I bought a nitro to bash and tinker with. I like to try and bulletproof things like that. But yes it was quite the huge air leak. Luckily its running fine now. I gotta get some videos up one I do some more stupid stuff and learn control off jumps.

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It's all part of the game. You'll get better at driving and diagnosing problems. Look back on yourself in a year. You'll be amazed.:)
 
So yesterday I put fuel tubing on the brake linkage which helped braking responsiveness. I took it to the skate park to try everything out and it was running OK. However, after a little while of running the temps and idle speed went up quite a bit. I am assuming I have an air leak somewhere. I have the engine pulled and will leak test it later. I will also leak test the fuel tank. Is there anything else I am missing?

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Seal the carb throat, backplate and header with sensor safe, high temp rtv. Also check the hsn housing for a leak. Just be very careful if you seal the hsn housing. It's very easy to strip. If you apply rtv to it, just tighten it by hand, then give it about an 1/8th of a turn to snug it. Being that it threads into composite and will have rtv on it, it won't rattle loose. If it doesn't leak, don't worry about it. Leave it be. Your tank cap has a 2.5 hex screw on the bottom of it. If the cap isn't sealing or isn't seating in the hole tightly, tighten the screw a little bit at a time until it does.
 
Everything was sealed except the front bearing. The rubber that seals against the crank I mean.

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I'm late in on this, but when you richened the idle to lower it. it will decrease the power off the line. if your idle is high, but tuned good, lower it using the idle adjustment screw. it will close off the carb more, and lower your idle. set it so that it is high enough for the engine to run nice, low RPMs but low enough, so it dousnt roll forward
 
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