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The Revo 1/8th scale differential upgrade. This will be broken down into (3) seperate threads for file management.
Anyone looking for hardened geared, reliable, well sealed and tuneable diffs will hopefully find this very useful. The upgrade requires diff kit(s), optional parts, diff oil, etc and will be listed below..
First the main ingredient, the hybrid diffs..
www.rc-monster.com - the source for the V1 Revo hybrid 1/8 scale diff upgrade. You can purchase a complete kit or kit minus actual diffs (what I did). I purchase the diffs themselves from Ebay for about $28.00/ea. I believe the difference between 13t & 10t is the 13t is recommended for nitro, 10t for electric. The kit(s) I received didn't come with shims so I supplied my own for better mesh/sealing. Here is the link:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmflmrvdf&cat=44
Next you will need:
Diff oil.
I used 3k & 5k from the Ofna CRT kit.
Teflon washers:
Traxxas part#3981. Optional part I used for better sealing.
Pinion shims:
HPI part#Z689. Used to shim the pinions.
Lithium grease:
Purchased from NAPA for around $3.95/tube. Butter consistency
Perform work in a clean area. If possible lay down paper towels to catch spillage.
The kit(s) from RC-Monster come baggy sealed and seperated to keep the aluminum parts from marring each other. Clean and inspect everything once you receive. Not order of disassembly. Whether you purchase your diffs seperately or not, disassemble and clean everything to insure a fresh start. I use detergent solution to remove oils/greases, rinse with water and then spray down with alcohol to remove all water. Remove any residual burrs, oil, etc. Dry fitting is IMPORTANT!!! Always dry fit as you build diffs to insure exact fitment and mesh. Like I mentioned earlier, I purchased the 13t kit(s) which use zorel ring ears. The 10t pinions use spiral ring gears. If you decide to conduct this upgrade without purchasing the full kit, research your gear options and make sure you get correct gear compatiability. Both gear types are available from the Hot Bodies Lightning series vehicles and spare parts are available at TowerHobbies.
Note***
Please list any corrections there may need to be as I want this to be as informative and accurate and I may need help from everyone to make this possible!!
So here we go...
With everything disassembled, cleaned and laid out, start with installing the black o-rings supplied with the diffs. Lightly lube with diff oil and place into the bottom of the ring gears and diff cups as shown.
Next assemble all (4) of the custom outdrives with their gear pins. A little lube helps keep the pins from constantly sliding out.
Next we will attach the corresponding spider gears to the pins/out drives. Once again a little oil eases fitting.
Now here is where I added some custom touches. Using the Traxxas teflon washers I applied one to each of the outdrives between pin and o-ring. When seated the pin will apply pressure to the washer which in turn will apply more even pressure to the o-ring.
Apply a little lube at the base of the outdrive & pin. Slide the assembled out drive/gears(s) into each of the ring gear and diff cup as shown.
Slightly lube and apply the diff cup gasket to both ring gears. Re-align holes.
Now for the smaller spider gear assembly. Assemble (2) of the gears with (1) steel shim behind as shown. Again a little lube goes a long way to keeping it together during assembly. Assemble (4) sets.
Now take (2) and overlap one over the other. The shafts have flat spots that will lay against each other.
With (2) pairs of assembled shafts,spiders, shims and a little oil helping to keep it together, carefully slide the assembly into one of the diff cups. This can be a little tricky but if it falls apart just re-assemble and repeat.
Fill the diff cup with desired diff oil. I fill mine up enough to just cover the smaller spiders. Make note as to which diff has what oil!
Take the assembled ring gear/outdrive and with gasket aligned and lightly lubed attach to diff cup. Insert the (4) diff cup screws and evenly tighten each screw opposite from another. Rotate outdrives to distribute oil through gears.
Attach one of the (4) flanged bearing supplied with the kit to each end of the diff with the flanged end towards the diff. You won't need shims here since the aluminum case, bearings and diffs were engineered to assemble without them. A nice touch I think.
Insert (2) of the smaller bearings into the outer/inner openings of the equipped aluminum half with the blue seals facing out. Now for the pinion. Starting with (2) of the HPI shims on the shaft, insert the pinion through bearings. Press down to fully seat. Attach one of the assembled diffs into the aluminum half and rotate pinion. Mesh should be smooth even without grease. If it seems to loose, take up the slack with more shims. If tight, remove shims until desired mesh is achieved.
Once this has been done for both units you are ready to apply grease to ring gear and assemble case halfs. Prior dry fitting will have insured predictable mesh and assembly.
Here are my finished diffs. I made stickers for mine to track which and what. The 3K-R denotes 3000 fluid rear/5K-F 5000 fluid front.
And now we are all finished.
Anyone looking for hardened geared, reliable, well sealed and tuneable diffs will hopefully find this very useful. The upgrade requires diff kit(s), optional parts, diff oil, etc and will be listed below..
First the main ingredient, the hybrid diffs..
www.rc-monster.com - the source for the V1 Revo hybrid 1/8 scale diff upgrade. You can purchase a complete kit or kit minus actual diffs (what I did). I purchase the diffs themselves from Ebay for about $28.00/ea. I believe the difference between 13t & 10t is the 13t is recommended for nitro, 10t for electric. The kit(s) I received didn't come with shims so I supplied my own for better mesh/sealing. Here is the link:
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail.php?prod=rcmflmrvdf&cat=44
Next you will need:
Diff oil.
I used 3k & 5k from the Ofna CRT kit.
Teflon washers:
Traxxas part#3981. Optional part I used for better sealing.
Pinion shims:
HPI part#Z689. Used to shim the pinions.
Lithium grease:
Purchased from NAPA for around $3.95/tube. Butter consistency
Perform work in a clean area. If possible lay down paper towels to catch spillage.
The kit(s) from RC-Monster come baggy sealed and seperated to keep the aluminum parts from marring each other. Clean and inspect everything once you receive. Not order of disassembly. Whether you purchase your diffs seperately or not, disassemble and clean everything to insure a fresh start. I use detergent solution to remove oils/greases, rinse with water and then spray down with alcohol to remove all water. Remove any residual burrs, oil, etc. Dry fitting is IMPORTANT!!! Always dry fit as you build diffs to insure exact fitment and mesh. Like I mentioned earlier, I purchased the 13t kit(s) which use zorel ring ears. The 10t pinions use spiral ring gears. If you decide to conduct this upgrade without purchasing the full kit, research your gear options and make sure you get correct gear compatiability. Both gear types are available from the Hot Bodies Lightning series vehicles and spare parts are available at TowerHobbies.
Note***
Please list any corrections there may need to be as I want this to be as informative and accurate and I may need help from everyone to make this possible!!
So here we go...
With everything disassembled, cleaned and laid out, start with installing the black o-rings supplied with the diffs. Lightly lube with diff oil and place into the bottom of the ring gears and diff cups as shown.
Next assemble all (4) of the custom outdrives with their gear pins. A little lube helps keep the pins from constantly sliding out.
Next we will attach the corresponding spider gears to the pins/out drives. Once again a little oil eases fitting.
Now here is where I added some custom touches. Using the Traxxas teflon washers I applied one to each of the outdrives between pin and o-ring. When seated the pin will apply pressure to the washer which in turn will apply more even pressure to the o-ring.
Apply a little lube at the base of the outdrive & pin. Slide the assembled out drive/gears(s) into each of the ring gear and diff cup as shown.
Slightly lube and apply the diff cup gasket to both ring gears. Re-align holes.
Now for the smaller spider gear assembly. Assemble (2) of the gears with (1) steel shim behind as shown. Again a little lube goes a long way to keeping it together during assembly. Assemble (4) sets.
Now take (2) and overlap one over the other. The shafts have flat spots that will lay against each other.
With (2) pairs of assembled shafts,spiders, shims and a little oil helping to keep it together, carefully slide the assembly into one of the diff cups. This can be a little tricky but if it falls apart just re-assemble and repeat.
Fill the diff cup with desired diff oil. I fill mine up enough to just cover the smaller spiders. Make note as to which diff has what oil!
Take the assembled ring gear/outdrive and with gasket aligned and lightly lubed attach to diff cup. Insert the (4) diff cup screws and evenly tighten each screw opposite from another. Rotate outdrives to distribute oil through gears.
Attach one of the (4) flanged bearing supplied with the kit to each end of the diff with the flanged end towards the diff. You won't need shims here since the aluminum case, bearings and diffs were engineered to assemble without them. A nice touch I think.
Insert (2) of the smaller bearings into the outer/inner openings of the equipped aluminum half with the blue seals facing out. Now for the pinion. Starting with (2) of the HPI shims on the shaft, insert the pinion through bearings. Press down to fully seat. Attach one of the assembled diffs into the aluminum half and rotate pinion. Mesh should be smooth even without grease. If it seems to loose, take up the slack with more shims. If tight, remove shims until desired mesh is achieved.
Once this has been done for both units you are ready to apply grease to ring gear and assemble case halfs. Prior dry fitting will have insured predictable mesh and assembly.
Here are my finished diffs. I made stickers for mine to track which and what. The 3K-R denotes 3000 fluid rear/5K-F 5000 fluid front.
And now we are all finished.
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