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Repairs/Mods to my Revo

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ozziii

ozziii

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Location
N/E Victoria, Australia,
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
  2. Racing
I'm slowly getting some bits & pieces to rebuild/repair my Revo so thought I would start a thread for any questions I have instead of multiple threads.
Its only around 3 months & still went great until the CB bearing went & the rear engine bearing started to fail. I decided I may as well upgrade a few things while I'm at it. Its completely stock atm.
I purchased a new O.S 21tm & ST racing 3 shoe clutch, still waiting on the clutch to arrive, shouldn't be long now. I have a parts list of upgrades that keeps growing but it normally takes a couple of weeks for items from ebay to arrive so it might be a long process.
Tonight I pulled the front end apart & noticed that 1 of the rocker arm pivot posts was bent a little so will get a new set, what is better, steel or alloy. I was going to get the alloy because they are lighter & it says they are as strong as the steel versions. Whats the better choice ??
Thanks for any help,
 
I just use the steel rocker posts. They are cheap and unless you are worried about every last gram I dont think the alloy ones are really going to make any difference at all. Save the extra money and put it to better use elsewhere.
 
I didn't think the price was to bad, only about $8 posted for a set of four from ebay, less weight would be good but I guess I can save a bit else where, but yes if they snap then the steel might be the way to go, would rather a bent post instead of a snapped post. The titaniam post would be nice but cost a bit much.
Steel it is, thanks.
 
I pulled the front diff out of the Revo, I'm not sure what oil it has from new in them but it seems to be very stiff, as in very thick oil, if I hold 1 output shaft & turn the other, it is very firm, almost to firm I would say, should it be this tight, just seems like it would have very little give, if it was any thicker I reckon it would be like a locker diff.
 
There should be some resistance in the diff. I would get steel posts and aluminum pillow balls. The pillow balls will save you some weight.
 
Yeah I thought there should be a bit of resistance but mine seems to be really tight, it feels smooth but when the axle drives are turned in the opposite direction it is pretty firm, more than I thought it would be. Was thinking that if they were a little less firm then it might have a bit more give on landings & put less stress on the trans & hopefully cause less breakage. I had a pretty thick oil/grease mixture (thicker than honey) in my 1/8 buggy diffs & it still wasn't anywhere near this tight. Not sure on the oil thickness they have from factory but didn't think it would be that thick.
I will get the steel posts, pitty they on come in packs of 2, will cost more than the alloy ones. Will check out allow pillow balls to, thanks.
 
from the factory the revo 3.3 (5309) has 30000k in the front/rear diffs.found it on traxxas when i was rebuilding mine.i went with 50000k in front/rear now it pulls better but i can't take a turn like it would with 30000k in diffs.but ,i like it the way it is now.
 
Thanks for that, I seen it somewhere but couldn't find it again, I'm not sure how thick it is compared to say engine oil for a real car engine as I have never used the propper diff oil before, I used car engine oil mixed with high temp bearing grease in my 1/8 buggy. But I didn't think the diff would be so tight or firm when the out drives were rotated in opposite directions. I think I will get some more diff fluid & pull the diffs apart & check them out when I get the chance. Need to get the engine & clutch in & set up so I can run it in first.
 
Finally found my Loctite automotive No-3 Aviation gasket sealant, going to use this to seal the backplate & around the carb on the O.S 21 tm before installing it in the Revo. Its non hardening but is different to the silicon/silastic type sealants as it is more of a brush on sealant & is slightly runny, has a thicker consistancy than honey though, its reasonably think. I should be able to put on a thin coat, let it start to set slightly then put parts back together. Has anyone used this type of sealant on to seal their engines, I think it should work pretty good, it works well on real car engines.
 
I've never heard of lucky seven, probably don't get it in Australia. I think the loctite gasket sealant should do the job reasonably well though. I have read about the green slime & seen it in some youtube vids to, not sure if I can get that here either. Might check out ebay but not sure how I would go having a liquid imported from U.S.A or other countries. Will have to check out some Australian online hobby shops & see if they have it, probably cost a fortune here though.
 
Slowly getting the parts together to get the O.S 21tm installed, got the new CB bearings but still waiting on the 3 shoe clutch & flywheel, feels like its taking ages, been 2 weeks so far so hopefully will turn up this week, & some spare glow plugs that are on the way.
I'm going to get the steel drive shafts (axles) for it as well & was trying to find some drive shafts that go from the trans to the f & r diffs, do Traxxas make any of them like they do the axles ?? I can't find any.
I'm going to go with the FoC & was looking at the Robinson Racing steel gears & slipper, I thought about using the center diff but want steel, does anyone make then CD with all steel gears ?? Hopefully will be able to order some of these parts soon,
 
Yeah I seen them ones but they don't suit, My Revo has uni's on both ends of the shafts not any dog bones. I would rather stick with the uni's, not a fan of dog bones. I thought Traxxas would make some themselves like they do to replace the axles.
I did find a pair but they do cost a bit & I'm not sure of the quality. Has anyone seen or used these ones before.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/190573255303?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

Here's their web site

http://eracingpro.com/shop/

I also found this thread on the Traxxas forum just then.

http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread.php?526672-eRacing-pro-parts

Seems a bit of a gamble to deal with them maybe.
 
Just checked out that Horizon Hobbies site, pretty poor I think, no descriptions or specs on parts or anything. What is the quality like of the RD Logics gear.
 
Right, time to spend up on ebay, just sold my camera/photography gear so now time to order some more parts for the revo. THS pipe, steel axle shafts, rpm a-arm & axle carriers, I think I will need steel trans gears, new slipper & clutch bell so looking at the Robinson Racing stuff for that. Was thinking about getting a new radio, either spektrum DX3 or Futaba 4PL, don't really need the extra stuff that comes with the spekky, & also a single servo for steering, a Savox. Not sure if I will get radio stuff yet, maybe that can wait. The sway bar kit would be good but I want a wing so I think I have to go with the Teckno set up not Traxxass, might need a wheelie bar to. Should make the revo a bit better I reckon.
 
I would skip the rpm axle carriers, i think there junk and the pillow balls keep pulling through them. I would buy the rpm tru trac kit for the rear and the tecno rc setup for the front, i have had better luck with the stock carriers on the front then with rpm. Went through 3 sets in 2 months time and have been running the stockers for 6 months with no problems.But they work well on the rear in the tru-trac setup, and u dont have to mess with setting tow everytime u run. IMO..
 

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