• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

recoil starter.....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

aj200415

RCTalk Addict
Messages
860
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
my pullstart broke. can u fix it by re winding up the coil?? if so, what can i use as the string?? i was thinking of useing one of those strings u get when u get a ceiling fan replacement switch, it comes with a white braded string for the cord to pull. its about the same width, maybe a lil' bit bigger. can i use this??
 
The Fuel will kill most string
You can order the string I think
What motor is it ?
 
Yes, you can rebuild pull starts. I do, fairly routinely, and have gotten pretty quick at it.

I would not recommend using just any string, but have no one specific brand that is required. I personally use TRAXXAS TRX Pro .15 or their new 2.5 pull start strings for just about all of my rebuilds. It is inexpensive and does the trick nicely.
 
I'd go with the first one as that is what I use, but the second (depending on the length of the cord) is probably just as good.
 
SkyMaxx said:
I'd go with the first one as that is what I use, but the second (depending on the length of the cord) is probably just as good.

c, i was just wondering about the thickness.
 
also, I'm looking at the fuel filters and the dubro ones I'm lookin at in hobby town USA are in the air plane catagory, but looks EXACTLY like the car ones. does it matter??
 
I wouldn't worry about the thickness of the line. Thin is good as it spools into the starter with better ease. Thicker line also soaks up more oil and tends to get jammed in the starter casing, causing other issues.

As for that fuel filter, it should work just fine. Personally, I rarely if ever shop at HobbyTown USA due to some bad experiences with personnel their not having a freaking clue about the products or the hobby that they are selling. BUT if that is all you have to choose from, then shop smartly and seek good advice online prior to a purchase (similar to what you are doing now...good idea.)
 
SkyMaxx said:
I wouldn't worry about the thickness of the line. Thin is good as it spools into the starter with better ease. Thicker line also soaks up more oil and tends to get jammed in the starter casing, causing other issues.

As for that fuel filter, it should work just fine. Personally, I rarely if ever shop at HobbyTown USA due to some bad experiences with personnel their not having a freaking clue about the products or the hobby that they are selling. BUT if that is all you have to choose from, then shop smartly and seek good advice online prior to a purchase (similar to what you are doing now...good idea.)


thanx, i think i got to my LHS and c if they got the stuf i want.It'll be cheaper and safer.
 
Good luck and let us know how it goes. If you need any help or have any questions on rebuilding the pull start, drop me a PM or just ask. Caution on opening the case as the spring will come undone pretty quickly and can do so pretty violently.
 
SkyMaxx said:
Good luck and let us know how it goes. If you need any help or have any questions on rebuilding the pull start, drop me a PM or just ask. Caution on opening the case as the spring will come undone pretty quickly and can do so pretty violently.


ok, when i take it apart to put in new line ( old line is still intact and is still connected through pull start, {it till works}) do i hold it and put in new line , or let the metal coil come undune and wind it back up(if so, how do i do it)
 
What part of the pull start is broken, if the line is still in tact and it still works?
 
SkyMaxx said:
What part of the pull start is broken, if the line is still in tact and it still works?


nothing is wrong its perfectly fine, the line is getting really weak, and is GOING to snap. i want to change it before it does.
 
Unfortunately, there is very little you can do to prevent the spring from becoming unsprung when attaching a new line. Most cases the, the line attaches to the center of the spool which requires you to pull it far enough out of the case to manipulate it, and this is typically when the spring uncoils.

The tools you will want handy are a set of needle nose pliers (the smaller thickness the needle nose, the better), a screw driver to remove the starter from the block, some scissors or an exacto to cut the new line and any other tool you feel might assist in the effort. It takes me about 15 minutes to rebuild them including recoiling the spring or rebuilding the spring if that is needed.

As for how to properly rewind the spring, that is somewhat of an art and is not easily explained. I typically wind the spring by hand until I have it as compact as I can get it. I then replace it in the starter casing. I the respool the pull start line and replace the spool. This is another tricky step as you have to get the spool into the casing in such a way as to properly engage the spring. Every manufacturer has a slightly different method of attaching the sprin to the spool and to the casing. At any rate, once done wind the spool a couple of times to put some tension on the spring, then feed the end of the line out of the casing and get the handle on. Then carefully re-install it and go.
 
SkyMaxx said:
Unfortunately, there is very little you can do to prevent the spring from becoming unsprung when attaching a new line. Most cases the, the line attaches to the center of the spool which requires you to pull it far enough out of the case to manipulate it, and this is typically when the spring uncoils.

The tools you will want handy are a set of needle nose pliers (the smaller thickness the needle nose, the better), a screw driver to remove the starter from the block, some scissors or an exacto to cut the new line and any other tool you feel might assist in the effort. It takes me about 15 minutes to rebuild them including recoiling the spring or rebuilding the spring if that is needed.

As for how to properly rewind the spring, that is somewhat of an art and is not easily explained. I typically wind the spring by hand until I have it as compact as I can get it. I then replace it in the starter casing. I the respool the pull start line and replace the spool. This is another tricky step as you have to get the spool into the casing in such a way as to properly engage the spring. Every manufacturer has a slightly different method of attaching the sprin to the spool and to the casing. At any rate, once done wind the spool a couple of times to put some tension on the spring, then feed the end of the line out of the casing and get the handle on. Then carefully re-install it and go.

i think thats going to be hard.
 
It's not too easy, but not as difficult as you might think.
 
Back
Top