rear skidplate

[Mike c.]

I broke the rear yoke or the thing that holds the tranny halfshaft to the rear diff and I have a new one, but do I need to take off the rear skid to get the old one off? if so when I take the skidplate off will any thing fall apart?

 

[NCNitro]

Yeah Mike, you will need to take off the skid, but nothing will fall apart. Then just remove the yoke screw, I think it is 2mm allen screw, pull it off and stick the new on on. Its a total of 7 screws, one in the yoke and 6 in the skid. Very easy to do.

 

[Mike c.]

thanks :bling:

 

[backspur]

Here is another option. You can remove the yoke screw from the side. Just rotate the shaft and access it from above the chassis brace. You can even do it with the tire on, but it is easier if you remove it.

 

[NCNitro]

I just prefer clean access to the screw pins. They are not the best quality pins, and I don't want to strip it out since they don't even sell yoke screws seperately, they make you buy the complete yokes just to get a screw pin.

 

[x_789]

Man all the worthless poop parts they sell and then they dont sell those pins. That is a crock in my opinion... Since that is a high demand part. I think someone needs to start a petition to get trx to sell them seperatly. I would do it but we know how fond the folks at trx are of me...X

 

[Mike c.]

because of what nc said i'll just take the skidplate off.

 

[Mike c.]

I got it off and I had no idea that dirt would get on the skidplate and there was atleast a inch of dirt and I got the new yoke on and now I need to see if it works

 

[NCNitro]

Thats another good reason for taking the skid off, it gives you access so you can clean inside there.

 

[Mike c.]

can I take the front skidplate and not have any thing fall apart?

 

[NCNitro]

Yes

 

[Mike c.]

thanks

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

Hey guy since your down there (if you got cash) then throw those POS traxxas drivelines the heck away and get the MIP CVD's. Now I know what your thinking "thats expensive" Well then just do the back if thats whats broken now then move on from there. Those things rob your Maxx of so much of the power that 2.5 is puttting out. They twist and flex which is a driveline no-no. I dont know why TRX wont pull there head out and at least put in dogbones. If the MIP CVD's are too much of a cost burden (about $55 a pair) then Proline offeres the same thing and there even made by MIP for cheaper. Also Dynamite makes some for way less. Trusty me and do yourself and your maxx a favor and just do it.

Side note: I have upgraded my Maxx a lot lately and I have to say the biggest performace per $ upgrades I have done is the CVD's all the way around and the FOC kit. This thing gets up and flys period!:thumbsup:

 

[Mike c.]

well, I might do that, but because my t-maxx is the pro .15 version I think it can wait

 

[backspur]

I have to disagree about the performance advantages of the CVDs. I do agree that they will flex less than the plastic sliders. Although, the increased acceleration provided by reduced flex will be offset by the 4 ounces of weight added by the CVD's. Plus, it is 4 ounces of unsprung rotational weight. Which is the worst kind of weight for acceleration and handling.

In certain cases, like with big block power, the CVD's are a necessity. The new 2.5 sliders should hold up well to any smallblock. They will eventually wear out, but so do CVD's. It is less expensive in the long run to replace the plastic sliders than to rebuild CVD's. I ran CVD's on my .21 T-Maxx, but you won't catch me with them on my smallblock. I will admit that the new chrome ones for the 2.5 look pretty sweet.

 

[HumboldtBlazer]

It is you right to disagree but I am tired of breaking cheap plastic halfshafts and u joints. It is just a little more rotational weight but the circumference is a lot smaller and this matters when spinning weight. I have no weight problem since I used the FOC and rims and tires that took over a pound off of my wheel weight (thats rotational weight also just like the tranny). MIP CVD's are not just for big blocks. They have had a tremendous success in professional racing at the 1/10 touring car, 1/10 off-road truck level. They use small blocks of the .12 and .15 engine size. None of any of the pro vehicles use plastic driveshafts. Granted we are all not racing here it just happens to be one of my asperations and how I gauge all vehicles and overall value and performance. Lets just say this.........Radio shack uses plastic driveshafts:trout:

 

[NCNitro]

I have to agree, my OS .15 twisted my stock plastic driveshafts after only 6 tanks. I went to Dynamite cvds and have been very happy ever since. Plastic driveshafts suck!

 

[x_789]

Well I use the plastic also ... and I agree the 2.5 is definatly meatier than stock and for them to hold up the power of the 2.5 they have to be.. Thats my take. I only say for cvd if you got the BB grunt...X

 

[backspur]

I race my T-Maxx, and I take it quite seriously. That is the reason I run the 2.5 plastic sliders. It is for pure performance. You gain over 4 ounces with the CVDs. That will slow you down, regardless. The original sliders were lacking, but the new 2.5 sliders hold up excellent under any smallblock power. Yes, they will eventually wear out, but they are relatively inexpensive to replace. They also require much less(none) maintenaince than CVDs. Without proper maintaince, CVD's will wear rather quickly. If not maintained properly CVDs are more likely to fail than the sliders. When they do wear out it costs between $15-$20 to rebuild one CVD axle.
Yes, most high-end car kits come with CVD's in one form or another. Although, if you will compare a CVD from a 1/10 gas truck to a CVD from a T-Maxx you will see a staggering difference in diameter and length. A stadium truck uses two CVDs. The T-Maxx up to six. That is triple the weight, and that is not accounting for the size differences. It is easier to justify the added weigth of CVDs on a 1/10 stadium truck, which generally have a higher power to weight ratio than the T-Maxx. Most 1/10 scale onroad cars use CVDs. There again, a huge size difference in the CVDs. Plus, most are made of something lighter than steel, such as aluminum or composite.
I admit it. I too fell for the CVD marketing hype. I bought a set for my first T-Maxx. They eventually found a home on my .21 T-Maxx. Since I went back to smallblock power, they set unused. I've since seen the error in my thinking. Lighter is better.