Rear Camber?

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godale03

Awesomer!! Than Rolex!!
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How much rear camber are you guys running?
 
Stock rear camber at the moment. Slayden's base rear camber setting is -2.5 degree from perpendicular. Thinking of going with more negative camber in the rear now that I have cut my tires.
 
I'm running stock.
 
I will have to put a guage on mine tonight and set it to -2.5 to see is I can get some better results. I am not getting the traction I would like on power and hope that this will get more tire on the ground. Thanks guys.

Tom
 
Just got back from the track, changed from 35wt oil front 45wt rear oil to 35/40 (single hole pistons from a t-maxx). I added bellcrank bearings, changed shock oil, and siped the rear tires and it really helped me come into the corner on the throttle without losing the rear end traction. I was thinking I would need to adjust my camber but I was surprised.
 
Just got back from the track, changed from 35wt oil front 45wt rear oil to 35/40 (single hole pistons from a t-maxx). I added bellcrank bearings, changed shock oil, and siped the rear tires and it really helped me come into the corner on the throttle without losing the rear end traction. I was thinking I would need to adjust my camber but I was surprised.

So with that setup you were able to power out the turns with no problem? How much dremel work did you have to do to the rear tires? I am running the same setup as far as shock oil, but am running double hole pistons. Still running the stock springs? Thanks for the info my friend.

Tom
 
About 10-15 minutes per tire having never done it before.

Using stock electric setup at the track, this pic still had the VXL system in.

P1020954.jpg


P1020953.jpg
 
o think anywhere from 1*-5* is best, play around with it and see what you like best
edit: to make it clear * is the new degree symbol because i couldnt find it on my keyboard..
 
Thanks for the pics Marauder I appreciate that. They look real good. I will have to try it. Takes a steady hand not to cut right through the tire I bet.
 
Not sure, it didn't seem like that part was easy to cut though. I didn't really apply any pressure. You can tell it's not perfect, but it works damn good. I had a few slip ups, but overall I'm really happy. They'll do until I get a nice set of beadlocks and bowtie tires. May also pick up a set of epic/switch combos for the spec classes that allow them.
 
I thought about siping my stock tires just to set what I could get out of them. I'm also going to set up my rear camber to -5 to see if that might give some more hook up in the rear without the dreaded sidewall catch and roll, lol.
 
That siping job looks great! Impressive. I'm running stock on pavement, havnt gone to an offroad track yet.
 
I did the siping on my stock tires and I was able to feel a difference on both dirt and street, but then switched to the bow-ties. Adding rear camber helped me in the corners and straight accelaration in the loose dirt. It will stay straight.
 
what about the front?what should we run up there?mine from the factory is goofy 1 wheel is straight up and down and the other has neg camber..so I'am need to find out what it should be.. I have the duratrax camber gauge to try and get it as close as I can..:thumbup1:
 
I would run a little bit more of negative camber up front than the rear. Like -2.5 degrees.
 
If you have problem from the tail stepping out during hard cornering, I would reduce the front camber (make it more upright, say from -1.5 to -0.5. Adding more negative camber on the front will increase front end grip, and makes the truck more prone to spin. Too much negative camber at the rear won't be beneficial either, you'll just reduce the tire's contact patch with the ground. Ideally,the best camber adjustment would be the tire is almost totally flat on its tread during hard cornering.
 
so Neg 2.5 camber front and rear then? is this correct?
 
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