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rear axles?

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A

AE_RC10GT

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  1. Bashing
ok guys i took the axles out of the rear and put in new dogbones or whatever they are called, the axles with the u-joints on them, finally installed one side but i noticed that they dont quite fit right , they seem loose in the position they have to be in, HELP PLEASE ME!! thanks!!
 
If it is a straight dogbone, make sure there is spring in the axle-side drive cup. Without it, the dogbone will "chatter", and could eject. A spring from a click-top ink pen will do.
 
you didnt specify which rig this was on, but on my rc10gt the rear bones are very loose, i use a small bit of fuel tubing in each cup to keep them tight.
 
i was talking about your rc10gt, you should really consider these, also cvd's dont come loose because they go directly to the wheel!
just ask at your local hobby shop for a set of MIP cvd's for an rc10gt
theyll know exactly what you are talking about!
 
Depends. There are two different sizes; if it's the original Black Tub; it'll be 1/4 inch (with a taper). Anything with a blue tub should have the 3/8 inch (straight axle).
 
If it has the blue tub (and less than 6 years old), then it's going to be the 3/8 axles. Simply remove one of the rear wheels, and see if the axle has a "drop off" (thicker where the pin passes through than the threads).
 
By thicker, I mean the part with the pin will be about twice the diameter as the threaded part (my mistake).

You most likely have the 3/8" axles.
 
It's going to be the chrome ones, if any of 'em. Worst case, all you'd need (aside from those) is a set of four 3/8 x 3/16 bearings. Stay away from Dynamite Red Seals; go with the AE stock bearings instead. They cost a little more, but in the end run, will last a LOT longer.
 
Those should work also; the RC10GT shared alot of parts with the T2 and T3. The driveshafts being one key component (as well as the top shaft of the transmission, front end, and a few other parts).
 

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