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RC18B dogbones

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jon2

jon2

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Hey guys,

I am trying to find out why my 18B has problems with the front dogbones. The front dogbones tend to get one of the pins pop out when I am turning. Question, Who has had this problem ? What did you do? I have taken this apart and found no debris or missing springs in the diff cups. Having had a Savage with Dogbones I don't really want to go universals if I don't have to.

Could it be a shim issue? I have researched and the diff cases are supposed to be a snug fit and mine are.

Anyone ?

Thanks in advance for the help.

Jon
 
Do you have the springs in the diff drive cups? Should be able to feel them by wiggling the bone towards the diff.
 
HeartBreak said:
Do you have the springs in the diff drive cups? Should be able to feel them by wiggling the bone towards the diff.
Click to expand...

Yup sure do. That was the first thing I did after looking at the 18 manual for it. I took her apart to find nothing. I may end up looking for a new front end, a FT turnbuckle set or try putting my M8 on it and adjust the EPA for it.
 
That really is odd... I have a near-stock 18B rtr, and haven't had one dogbone pop out on it. I have lost the spring-perch on the shocks a lot of times though, lol.

I'm wondering if the spring itself is too short or soft, not keeping proper tension on the bone to keep it in the axle cup.
 
When I replaced my dog bones to the FT ones, I made new springs out of a ball point pen, that were a little longer. I didnt want to risk loosing one of the trick blue ones. As for poping out, can't say I have had that happen since I hit the curb so hard my motor blew apart lol. Try the longer springs though might help. Also, if your still runing the stock turnbuckels, up grade to the FT, or steel ones. I have the steel ones, and there much better then stock, you wont regret it!

Bryson
 
Another thing you might want to try is shimming the axle-cup. Remove the wheel, drive pin and dogbone. Then place a shim between the bone-cup on the axle and the bearings. That should bring it in a hair.

As for shims, I'm not sure where you can get one.
 
Thanks guys. I am going to try looking at the axle cups. Maybe there is a problem there. I switched the Dogbones in the front from left to right and vice versa.The same one pops. Odd that one side does it only. I inspected all the fixed rods and they are ok. I will eventually upgrade to the FT Turnbuckles.

Thanks HB and Bryson. I will update as I go.
 
HB I looked at the part numbers and they match. Are there different ones? Are there ones for the left only and the right only?

Rolex, the XP2 does not have EPA..The newer XP3D does. Looks like the Futaba 3PM series or the the older XR2 radios from JR.
 
HAHA.. Double checked the length on all 4 bones and they are fine.They should all be the same since they share the sae part number.
 
The only thing I can (seriously) think of is that your steering angle is too deep. Try rotating the steering EPA adjuster on the radio (located on the handle-grip, right above your left thumb) until the dogbones won't come out.
 
Since you can't set the end points, check to make sure the servo horn is centered and so is the servo. I still think it's going more one way than the other, and that's why it comes out. You might also try going an extra spline and then re-centering it with the trim.
 
I know that they are all the same length, because when I bought mine, I just threw them in there. But I'm stumped as of the moment! I can't see why it would keep popin out, I can see where your frustration is coming from lol.

Bryson
 
I did realize that there is a manual EPA Steering adjustment wheel.OOPS. I adjusted it but then my steering goes south. I am trying to research the best Aluminum steering rack. That and te FT Turnbuckle set.
 
I have the Integy rack on both of my RC18's and it seems to help A LOT. A DP draglink is supposed to be the best way to go though from what I've read.
 
Lessen said:
I have the Integy rack on both of my RC18's and it seems to help A LOT. A DP draglink is supposed to be the best way to go though from what I've read.
Click to expand...

That is what I have read here and on one18th.com . Looking at the different makers and seeing what is best quality for the buck.
 
The DP drag link in combination with 3Racing steering arms are the best, but the DP drag link is out stock until supposedly February and 3Racing is hard to find.

FFRC steering link is durable and works
integy steering link is supposedly weaker, but a few friends have it with good results (we race not bash tho)
3Racing steering link quality is supposedly not much different than integy but the designed is much better in that it uses ball bearing instead of hinge pins, etc

Remember to use thread lock and you will probably have to sand down the drag link or the top chassis as its not uncommon for it to rub together
 
The other question is are you running the stock steering blocks or aluminum (like the FT)?
I had problems when I was running the FT upgrades. I would lose a dogbone when I was running. I decided to change to CVDs to nip this problem in the bud.
 

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