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RC18 Turnbuckle Problem

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StrechM

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I've replace the turnbuckles with the FT kit along with the ball studs but the play isn't free enough.

I'm consering drilling through the captured ends to reduce the surface contact area.

Is there a better alternative? or do I have a bum set?
 
I drilled through the cups in mine, but not to free them up.

I drilled them so that instead of popping the cup off the ball, I can insert my hex driver and just unscrew the ball stud. I also did the shock ends.

Works great and I don't have a problem with binding or worn cups from repeatedly removing and installing them.

If you do this. Drill them from the inside out.
 
If your ball studs are binding in the cups, it's not because of a tight cup, but because the rod is threaded unevenly. I had the same issue with my RC18B when I changed out the RTR tie rods for the turnbuckles.
 
Yep, I did the same thing.. (I think I got the idea from Eddy). Although, I'm not sure if it will help loosen things up or not.
 
HeartBreak said:
If your ball studs are binding in the cups, it's not because of a tight cup, but because the rod is threaded unevenly. I had the same issue with my RC18B when I changed out the RTR tie rods for the turnbuckles.
Click to expand...
I'll check them. Thank you.
 
A drop of silocone spray does wonders also give it a try,also makes the car look all new and pretty!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
They are not threaded evenly.

I popped off the 2 rears that appear to be binding ans re-attached each one, one end at a time. The cups are binding on the ball studs.

I can attach one end of the turnbukcle cup to a ball stud and it remains in place at any angle without dropping.

Looks like I got a partially bad batch.

Is there a better aftermaket set?
 
Not that I have found.
The issue may be that you threaded the rod in to far and it made the cup ever so slightly mis-formed. It will push the plastic in front of the rod into the cup and form a slight bulge.

Get another stock cup and put it on the stud before you put the rod in. See if its a good fit, if so, then thread the rod in and see if its still free. If not, then you know what the issue is.
 
I meant to say they are threaded evenly.

You may be right about that Ed. Maybe too many pops at the benchsky.

I'll tear it down again this weekend and change out the hinge pins too.

Usually everything goes smoothly but this is not my week. I also took some paint off of my fender flair on the pick up this weekend while picking up my travel trailer at the storage yard.

I'll post back with what i find.
 
Hey Stretch. I did exactly what you and Ed spoke about. I threaded mine to deep an caused a bulge. A fresh cup and bit more patience and I had the problem solved. It is so easy to mess these turnbuckles up on something so small. I am anxious to hear what your solution is.

Tom
 
godale03 said:
Hey Stretch. I did exactly what you and Ed spoke about. I threaded mine to deep an caused a bulge. A fresh cup and bit more patience and I had the problem solved. It is so easy to mess these turnbuckles up on something so small. I am anxious to hear what your solution is.

Tom
Click to expand...
It was exactly that, 3 of the cups on the 2 rear turnbuckles were binding on the ball studs.

While I was at the lhs yesterday I picked up a bagfull of parts and completeted the rebuilt last night. Here's what's been done: diffs rebuilt, arms replaced, shock rebuild, turnbuckles, ball studs, hinge pins, pinion, spur, carriers, most of the moving parts.

This one turns out to be my problem child. Under full acceleration it pulls hard and wants to spin out. I've had it apart 3 times this morning.

Here is whats been done;
Rechecked and ajusted the diffs 3 times in in various combinations.
Rechecked the fluid in the shocks.
Reajusted the turnbuckles (they are still pivoting freely).

I've recently had a similar issue with another but my wrench isn't fixing it this time. Nothing is binding but I think it may be the rear diff unless there's a better suggestion.
 
Hmm.. interesting issue you have here. Definately sounds like you may have some sort of unbalanced grip somewhere.. whether it's the diff or tires. Camber is equal both sides?
 
Only under FULL acceleration?
How about 3/4ths?

If only full, it could be torque steer.
Play with the diff settings.


COULD it be:
Uneven ballooning of the tires?
Mismatched tires?
Chassis tweaked?
Chassis balance?
Uneven squat?

Just tossing stuff on the table to look at.
 
The diffs were too tight. I checked and checked and re-checked them and they were too tight. Loosend them up just a slight turn and problem solved.
 
i bought a set of the Atomic Ti turnbuckles and ball ends. what a cheap crappy kit. The ball ends dont have hex holes and have to be screwed in with a wrench. the ball caps have no hole obviously because of the ball ends, and every time i hit anything the caps pop off. this is a horribly engineered kit. i suggest staying with lundsford...
 

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