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RC10GT's-Attn Nitroaddict and anyone

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silcerbullet

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What are the specific differences between the team built kit @ $190 and the RTR@ $280 other than the lack of electronics , engine , and the "associated " labor?? Would a .12 CV-X(s) be significantly more "difficult" than the RTR's .15 for a nitro-noob?? I'm trying to get more comfortable with the AE idea- my LHS disses them bad, but(and) has a wall full of parts............?
 
I dont see how ANY LHS could honestly diss the AE RC-10 GT!!! They are nuts. But anyhow, on to the questions.

Usually team Kits have hopped up parts right out of the box.

The kit allows you to KNOW your ride since you assemble it from the ground up.

The kit also will allow you to be able to put in the parts you would normally hop-up. Like the RX, Servos, battery pack, engine and pipe. Even the body.

Essentially, you get what you want. The kit is my most preferred method of buying any R.C.. You get what you want the FIRST time and spend less in the long run.

You will be fine with an O.S.. They are argueably the best mill when it comes to holding a tune. And their 'R' series can put up one hell of a fight in the power arena.

hope this helps!

Now go tell your LHS they are just plain goofy! (Unless of course they were trying to sell you the Losi XXX-NT Drake edition ;) )
 
Actually, they were pushing the XXX-NT RTR; not usually stocking the GT RTR, yet, only had a skimpy selection of Losi stuff, even less Ofna. As I read the AE"team built" kit description it seems it was a completely asembled rolling chassis less eng/electric, or am I misreading the description- sounded like a 80% type deal:confused: But are the PARTS the same TEAM BUILT or RTR??? Yes there was a Drake kit on the shelf, but I was trying to avoid some of that labor.... As far as the .12/.15- is the .12 much more difficult to start, break-in, tune?
 
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You can't go wront with either the Losi or the AE. You have to decide on that one. I am partial to the Losi AD Edition.

I'm not 100% certain on the Team Kit Vs. RTR. Thats just the way it is most of the time. And if it is a roller, 80% completed, then it makes it that much easier and better for what YOU are looking for. Like I said, you get the electrics and mill you want.

The .12 is just as easy to tune as the .15. The question is whether or not you want the 'R' series. Which can be a LITTLE more cumbersome to tune, but packs more power.
 
Best engine suggestions particullarly for a rookie?- ie, quality, not upity/easy- cost isn't a huge concern if it enhances learning enjoyment. Once more experienced I'll go for the :flamer::banana:
 
You can't go wrong with ANY O.S. engine. A .12 will be plenty of power if you go with the 'R' series.

Thats what i would suggest.

I have a .15 CVR in my Stadium Truck and at times its TOO MUCH power. But thats an oxmoron if I ever heard one hehee
 
A freind of mine runs the OS .12 CV mill in his AE GT, and it has plenty of power. I think he changed the ratio of the spur/cb just a bit.
Hey silcerbullet, dont be afraid to build a kit. There not hard to do, and it will definately help you out in the long run... With the "Built" version, you may not be building it now, but you'll definately be rebuilding it in the future... :shrug:
 
Wow, how did i miss this thread? it even has my name on it.

I really can't answer this any better than christian did. so i am just going to expound a few points.
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Buying a kit, engine, radio, ect seperately is a much better way to go, but will also be more costly when u start out. If you can afford it, go with a kit, and build it yourself, not only will u have the experience of building your kit , once done, but u will know it inside and out when it breaks. it will break. u can also pick your own engine, your own radio, ect.....
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For any LHS to talk poorly about the RC10GT shows an utter lack of knowlege. Not only is it the longest running rc car in existance, but it has one more championships than any other in the world!
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To answer your question regarding the OS mill, i personally think they are the best engines on the planet. And the .12 cv wil only be a lil more powerful than the stock AE mill, but MUCH more reliable, and very easy to tune. If you can afford it, go with the cv-r series. they produce double the power of the cv series, and if its too much, just dont squeeze the go trigger too hard.
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As for prices - the RTR version can be had anywhere for about 300.00 after u get all ur support equip, such as fuel, batteries, ect....

The total price for a team kit(not factoryteam), plus an os cv mill, and an avg radio, like a jr xr2, will set u back somewhere around 450.00. add another 80.00 for the cv-r engine.
 
So am I to asume that the team built is the same parts(less eng/elec) as the RTR, albiet not put together as well as I might? I can understand this well, as for the first thing I do with a new dirt bike is dis- and reassemble, for the long run. Additionally, any comments on the use of this truck primarily at the beach?(hardpacked, slightly damp- still drive-on in some places ) - I know that's alittle blasphemous, but I neeed relief from HER boring napping/reading/passive beach activities!! Thanks to any and all!:cheers:
 
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slicer - driving at the beach is not the best thing for it - salt, sand, ect - but as long as u take care of it, give it a good cleaning afterwards, u should be alright.
 
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