Ok guys I have officially ran 12 tanks through my RC10GT Team kit with my OS .12 CVR and on the last 5 minutes of my last tank,the rear E-clips came off on the right rear hub.The hub came loose(obviously) and then without any warning launched my CVD(right side).All I have left is the Hub,the cup end of the CVD and the hingepin.I lost the shaft side of the CVD,both e-clips and the hub spacer on the hingepin.So,my question is what would you all recommend to do as a fix or to prevent this from happening again?Does the team come with the bigger 3/16" CVD's?Should I upgrade to those if need be and put the boots on them?What is a recommendation to do about the hingepin e-clips staying on.I am just bashing it for now.Also the diff cups on the side of the trans are already show some decent wear from the CVD's beatin' on them.Are there better diff cups?I hope I am not asking to many newbie questions.Thanks in advance all.I will try and post pics later tonite for further diagnosis.:n00bie:
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RC10GT Woes
- Thread starter Dooley
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HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
When you put those cvd's together, did you threadlock the little setscrew?
You really can't avoid losing those clips; I go through a roll a month. Replacements are cheap; a roll of them is less than a buck.
The stock diff cups are fairly good for all around beating; I'm still on my stock ones of about 6 years old.
You really can't avoid losing those clips; I go through a roll a month. Replacements are cheap; a roll of them is less than a buck.
The stock diff cups are fairly good for all around beating; I'm still on my stock ones of about 6 years old.
HeartBreak
RCTalk VIP
No problem. The GT has it's quirks, but there are workarounds for them.
You can apply a little shrink wrap around the bell of the cvd, just enough to cover the bulge on the bone end, and overhang slightly (And allow free movement) on the axle end. This will keep the pins in place, and prevent it from coming undone. You'll still have to check for all the parts on occasion.
Don't be afraid to really get a good torque on the setscrew. You don't want to overtighten to the point of bending the pin so much that it binds the shaft; only to the point that it's tight.
Don't skimp on the threadlock; the more the better.
As for the drivecups; those will wear a little faster with a higher horse motor, like the CV-R.The only way you can slow this down, is to loosen your slipper. It'll take some stress off the drivetrain.
You can apply a little shrink wrap around the bell of the cvd, just enough to cover the bulge on the bone end, and overhang slightly (And allow free movement) on the axle end. This will keep the pins in place, and prevent it from coming undone. You'll still have to check for all the parts on occasion.
Don't be afraid to really get a good torque on the setscrew. You don't want to overtighten to the point of bending the pin so much that it binds the shaft; only to the point that it's tight.
Don't skimp on the threadlock; the more the better.
As for the drivecups; those will wear a little faster with a higher horse motor, like the CV-R.The only way you can slow this down, is to loosen your slipper. It'll take some stress off the drivetrain.
if you do not want to loose e clips put a drop of clear silicone in each one
then they will not come off
then they will not come off