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RC10GT stripped steering screw

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basketcase45

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I've never encountered this problem before so I will put it out there and see what you guys think I should do.
OK on the chassis, there are two screws that the steering bell cranks are built on. The left one is stripped out where it comes up through the chassis. I can hold it in place with a locking nut on the top, but it still wiggles a lot and makes the steering very loose. I thought if I made a new hole to one side of it or the other and threaded it up through it it might be OK. Which side of it should I go to? Will this affect the steering? Anyone else had this problem? What did you do?
 
I would drill out the head of the screw, and take it out and replace it with a new screw.
 
OK maybe I didn't describe it too good- The Chassis is stripped where the left screw that holds the bellcrank goes thru. The screw is fine. Which side of it should I put the new hole? And how do I get the new hole threaded?
 
if you put a new hole you will through your stearing all off.. i wuold put a nut behind it like you been doing but shim it to take the slack out of it.. the ou should be ok or you could get a chassis there not that expencive
 
I got slightly longer screws and backed them both with a nut then put the bellcranks on over the nut. That should hold even though the chassis is stripped.

Or, like Beason said, a new chassis isn't that expensive.
 
How is the chassis stripped?! There arent any threads in the chassis itself... I'm confused...
 
.21Rc10GT said:
How is the chassis stripped?! There arent any threads in the chassis itself... I'm confused...
Click to expand...

I was thinking the same thing. Would be the first for me.


Do what beason said,,thats what i would do as well.
 
TT120 said:
Those 2 holes are threaded on my chassis.
Click to expand...

They shouldnt be... What style GT do you have? The older tub version. the kind that came with the red, white and blue body, or the GT Plus??? All of mine have had nuts on the other side of the chassis...
 
I got it as a roller so I don't know exactly what it is but it's not the tub chassis. It's the newer blue aluminum one. The holes are threaded and there were nuts backing them.
 
The one suggestion that I can make is, if you don't want to replace the chassis, you might want to consider MIP's ball bearing steering kit. I've got one in mine; best upgrade (besides the .12 TZ) I've bolted into it.
 
HeartBreak said:
The one suggestion that I can make is, if you don't want to replace the chassis, you might want to consider MIP's ball bearing steering kit. I've got one in mine; best upgrade (besides the .12 TZ) I've bolted into it.
Click to expand...

The only thing i can say about that is, it takes out the servo saver.. You then need to install one on the servo...
 
Is it possible that someone forced larger screws in that caused a thread on the chassis?
My GT is not threaded.

Is it possible that someone forced larger screws in, that caused a thread on the chassis?
My GT is not threaded.

A pic would help.
 
If you drill one side, drill the other. Make it even. also adjust the turnbuckles to justify the change.
 
.21Rc10GT said:
The only thing i can say about that is, it takes out the servo saver.. You then need to install one on the servo...
Click to expand...

True, which brings the cost to around that of a chassis (plus or minus a couple dollars)...

The only major advantage of the MIP kit is, you don't have to worry about stripped screws, or ball stud length.

I installed mine due to the studs hitting the chassis, and making the truck steer only to the left. Just too lazy to dremel the studs down.... lol
 
I also have the MIP steering kit... It makes the steering super smooth, but as i said, it removes the servo saver... I have yet to put a new servo saver on... I wanna see if i can blow up my servo first... :hehe:
 
if you have the old style chassis you should have one of these http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LX2927&P=0 and the screws thread into that plate to hold it on. If you have the new style chassis http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUX82&P=0 the thread on the screw post should go far enough through the chassis to be backed with nuts before you install the steering bell crank and servo saver. The top nuts are only there to hold the bell crank and servo saver in place.

My advice would be to replace the chassis or take it to someone that can weld aluminum and have the hole welded up and redrill it. Cheap option is to JB weld it. If you have a drill press you can drill and tap the hole larger and find a long screw with the same thread, stick the screw in the drill press and file the tip of the screw down to the same size as the bell crank post. Then die cut new threads for the tip nut.
 

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