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- Thread starter maxxtrac
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You can't go wrong with either one.
I have both and prefer the XXX-NT Drake Edition over my GT.
If you are looking for total performance the XXX is the one.
If you are looking for a truck that you can get lots of aftermarket parts for and be assured someone at the track will have extra parts get the GT.
The GT is a built proof truck Its like a Timex, Takes a licken. Lots of RPM stuff available for it. Its hard to brake one beyond a 5 minuter repair.
The XXX-NT Drake is all graphite and Ti. Every National race has one in First or second place and most of the time Both.
The draw back is the graphite. It preforms much better than the composite parts but is a lot more brittle under HIGH impact.
Check the rules of the track-s you will be at to see the engine requirements. Most ROAR races will make you use a .12 in a kit car, or a Stock .15 in a RTR.
If you have any more questions let us know.
I have both and prefer the XXX-NT Drake Edition over my GT.
If you are looking for total performance the XXX is the one.
If you are looking for a truck that you can get lots of aftermarket parts for and be assured someone at the track will have extra parts get the GT.
The GT is a built proof truck Its like a Timex, Takes a licken. Lots of RPM stuff available for it. Its hard to brake one beyond a 5 minuter repair.
The XXX-NT Drake is all graphite and Ti. Every National race has one in First or second place and most of the time Both.
The draw back is the graphite. It preforms much better than the composite parts but is a lot more brittle under HIGH impact.
Check the rules of the track-s you will be at to see the engine requirements. Most ROAR races will make you use a .12 in a kit car, or a Stock .15 in a RTR.
If you have any more questions let us know.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys I was kind of leaning toward the xxx-nt. now I need to decide wich version to get the rtr or the drake. Would the rtr be ROAR legal if I bought a .12 and put in it? It would be nice to race in both classes.
I would go with the Drake. All the hop-ups are in the box. And even though the 'brittle factor' might exist, I have launched this thing 25 feet through the air MANY of times consecutively and had nothing break. I have also had it slam into a concrete wall at full speed and just lost an E clip. Of all of my vehicle my Losi XXX is my absolute favorite. For now anyhow. I'm still waiting for a break in the weather to get my Savage crankin!
I put a .15 CVR in the Drake but you can get just as much if not more HP out of a good Mugen .12.
I put a .15 CVR in the Drake but you can get just as much if not more HP out of a good Mugen .12.
ROAR will alow a .15 Stock Engine in a RTR, it must be the same brand engine it came with. If you build a kit you must go with a .12
Any of the top name engines will work just fine. OS, Fantom, Mugen.
Find a price you like and get the engine. Before you get the kit you must decide if you want to get a pull start or a bump start engine because the kits are different.
I will try to find a link for you, X seems to be the best at finding the great prices.
Find a price you like and get the engine. Before you get the kit you must decide if you want to get a pull start or a bump start engine because the kits are different.
I will try to find a link for you, X seems to be the best at finding the great prices.
Once you decide which version you want, let me know, and I will hook you up with my LHS. They have been hooking people here up with some really good prices.
Just let me know which one and I will find out for you tomorrow.
-Chris
PM me with the zip code it will be shipping to and I will even get you the insured shipping rate via UPS.
Just let me know which one and I will find out for you tomorrow.
-Chris
PM me with the zip code it will be shipping to and I will even get you the insured shipping rate via UPS.
Ok a few things to consider here. First the Drake kits has all the good stuff in it. Threaded shocks TI turnbuckles and and its graphite. Now if you get the drake kit it comes with the rear header that is for bumpstart only. With the regular kit you are going to be able to get it with a stock header and pipe.
As far as buying the kit a month ago I would say get the Drake no questions asked. The average prices of the Drake was around 300-330 and the regular kit was floating arong 240. Now on ebay you can find the Drake in the 280-300 range from hobby shops that sell on ebay. You can find it at online retailers for 319 at stormer or rcpitcrew those are the best i have seen from an online store.
Now here is the delima if you dont care about getting the graphite. The for some reason the price droped over 100 dollars on the xxx-nt kit. I Sold my rtr a couple weeks ago simply to by this kit it is going for 134.99 at ultimate hobbies That is a steal then all you have to add really is Lunsford Racing XXX-NT Turnbuckle/Pin Kit 39.99 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends Now if you dont just have to have the graphite and threaded shocks then this is a really good option at 180 total.
Also the turnbuckel set ha ti hinge pins and the drake dosen't so add another 20 to the drake. You can save over 120 bucks going the second route if you have the money sure get the drake if not do the second option.
As far as if you need a pull start motor if you get a pull start and want to use the drake you can just use the standard header instead of the drake one.
Now on the engine there is no reason to get a .15 for one of these trucks they are so light they FLY. People have diffrent opions on weather or not to use a slide carb on stadium trucks. They say it is not as sensative to throttle response made more for a rode car. If you want a kick tail engine for a great price this is it O.S. .12 CV-RX w/10C Slide Carb On-Road $124.99 Tower Hobbies and it has a pull start so there is no need for a starter box. You can also use a starter box with a car that has a pull start also I like that personally that way if my truck dies in a wreck I can have buddy restart it for me asap.
Now if you want a rotary carb instead then I would say that the OS CV-RX rotary is the way to go for reliability and tuning ease or you can get a fantom from Stormer or on ebay for a better price. I have never used a Nova motors but I hear they scream but they can be touchy to tune. Anyway thats my input.
Almost forgot put a RPM front bumper on your truck before you even start it and that will save the heart ache of busted from a-arms. X
As far as buying the kit a month ago I would say get the Drake no questions asked. The average prices of the Drake was around 300-330 and the regular kit was floating arong 240. Now on ebay you can find the Drake in the 280-300 range from hobby shops that sell on ebay. You can find it at online retailers for 319 at stormer or rcpitcrew those are the best i have seen from an online store.
Now here is the delima if you dont care about getting the graphite. The for some reason the price droped over 100 dollars on the xxx-nt kit. I Sold my rtr a couple weeks ago simply to by this kit it is going for 134.99 at ultimate hobbies That is a steal then all you have to add really is Lunsford Racing XXX-NT Turnbuckle/Pin Kit 39.99 RPM Long Shank Rod Ends Now if you dont just have to have the graphite and threaded shocks then this is a really good option at 180 total.
Also the turnbuckel set ha ti hinge pins and the drake dosen't so add another 20 to the drake. You can save over 120 bucks going the second route if you have the money sure get the drake if not do the second option.
As far as if you need a pull start motor if you get a pull start and want to use the drake you can just use the standard header instead of the drake one.
Now on the engine there is no reason to get a .15 for one of these trucks they are so light they FLY. People have diffrent opions on weather or not to use a slide carb on stadium trucks. They say it is not as sensative to throttle response made more for a rode car. If you want a kick tail engine for a great price this is it O.S. .12 CV-RX w/10C Slide Carb On-Road $124.99 Tower Hobbies and it has a pull start so there is no need for a starter box. You can also use a starter box with a car that has a pull start also I like that personally that way if my truck dies in a wreck I can have buddy restart it for me asap.
Now if you want a rotary carb instead then I would say that the OS CV-RX rotary is the way to go for reliability and tuning ease or you can get a fantom from Stormer or on ebay for a better price. I have never used a Nova motors but I hear they scream but they can be touchy to tune. Anyway thats my input.
Almost forgot put a RPM front bumper on your truck before you even start it and that will save the heart ache of busted from a-arms. X
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks for the info. Does the graphite parts realy make that big of a difference? I like the idea of a pullstart.and I am not sure about the about the rotary carb.I have never used one I have gotten comfortable with the slide style due to the fact I have a T maxx. How hard are the rotaty carbs two tune?I have about 500 bucks to start on this truck and I will have more money later wich set up would you suggest I go with.I want to take my time and build this truck right because i plan on being a serouis racer next season with a lot of practice of course. I am going to start racing at the dirt burners track in st. louis next year and I would like to be well prepared if you know what I mean. So any advice on setting up my new truck would be greatly appreciated. You guys have been a huge help so far.Please keep throwing me these great ideas I greatly appreciate it.
Oh by the way christian I think I am going to go with the Drake to make up for the extra weight of the pullstart motor I want to install. not sure wich motor yet I should be ready to buy my kit around th middle of january around the 15th or 16th
Oh by the way christian I think I am going to go with the Drake to make up for the extra weight of the pullstart motor I want to install. not sure wich motor yet I should be ready to buy my kit around th middle of january around the 15th or 16th
Ill get you a price on the Drake pullstart. Also, I love the slide carb setups. Thats all I will run. Most dont agree with slides for offroad, but, now you are finding that all the big dogs are coming out with slides stock. Including traxxas and HPI.
So good choice!!!
You will love the Drake!
So good choice!!!
You will love the Drake!
Wow C I didn't know that they made an option for a pull start I have only ever see one model the kit # A-0845 The drake page on TL site says this about 3/4 through description
"low slung exhaust manifold and adjustable tuned pipe" If they dont make a kit like "C" is talking about which I am not doubting him ok maybe a liltel. You can get the stock kit ehader and it will work fine with the Sweet Drake Pipe and a pull start. here is the manifold 9321
I run the Os engine listed above on my xxx-nt and really liked it. You can get it with the pull start and all you need to do is take the two spacers provided with it. Get "4" longer 4-40 mounting screws about an inch long and then install these mounting screws between the motor mount and the block of the engine this will lift the pull start up flush with the chasis. You dont have to do it . I just didn't like the thought of my nice OS pull start banging on the ground.
Ok another thing you will want to do right off the batt before you ever start your truck is do the mod to the tank lid moving the presure fitting to the lid that changed my life after "C" told me about this. I actually wrote adam drake a letter and he said to move it to the lid if I was having an issue of fuel getting sucked into the pipe which is what happens.
Now since you are decided on a Drake Kit here are a few other things you might want to get when you get ready to build your truck.
Trinity XXX-NT Rear Pivot Block I am not much for aluminum parts and the added weight but like I said its easy to over power these little trucks they are so light.
Receiver Pack XXX-NT Hump
RPM Losi xxx-nt One Piece Bellcrank Center Link
Lunsford Racing XXX-NT Hinge Pin Kit (10)
RPM two stage Light to Medium Shock Pistons
Racers Edge XXX-NT SCREW SET, stainless steel
That pretty much covers all the more common stuff you will see on these trucks. There are some hopped up rear axel setups and stuff but I don't relly think that is worth the time. The stuff I lisetd above I would suggest everything I listed with the only the dual rate pistons being a prefrence item. X
"low slung exhaust manifold and adjustable tuned pipe" If they dont make a kit like "C" is talking about which I am not doubting him ok maybe a liltel. You can get the stock kit ehader and it will work fine with the Sweet Drake Pipe and a pull start. here is the manifold 9321
I run the Os engine listed above on my xxx-nt and really liked it. You can get it with the pull start and all you need to do is take the two spacers provided with it. Get "4" longer 4-40 mounting screws about an inch long and then install these mounting screws between the motor mount and the block of the engine this will lift the pull start up flush with the chasis. You dont have to do it . I just didn't like the thought of my nice OS pull start banging on the ground.
Ok another thing you will want to do right off the batt before you ever start your truck is do the mod to the tank lid moving the presure fitting to the lid that changed my life after "C" told me about this. I actually wrote adam drake a letter and he said to move it to the lid if I was having an issue of fuel getting sucked into the pipe which is what happens.
Now since you are decided on a Drake Kit here are a few other things you might want to get when you get ready to build your truck.
Trinity XXX-NT Rear Pivot Block I am not much for aluminum parts and the added weight but like I said its easy to over power these little trucks they are so light.
Receiver Pack XXX-NT Hump
RPM Losi xxx-nt One Piece Bellcrank Center Link
Lunsford Racing XXX-NT Hinge Pin Kit (10)
RPM two stage Light to Medium Shock Pistons
Racers Edge XXX-NT SCREW SET, stainless steel
That pretty much covers all the more common stuff you will see on these trucks. There are some hopped up rear axel setups and stuff but I don't relly think that is worth the time. The stuff I lisetd above I would suggest everything I listed with the only the dual rate pistons being a prefrence item. X
- Thread starter
- #14
Thanks guys for the advice. Where is the gas tank lid mod posted? I want to print it so when i get my truck I know what to do.
Oh one more thing could you guys post pics of your trucks so I could see how they are set up. That is if its not to much to ask that is.
Oh one more thing could you guys post pics of your trucks so I could see how they are set up. That is if its not to much to ask that is.
http://community.webshots.com/album/43897660oOKCqg
I have some more burried in one of my other galleries too. This is the original setup with the tank mod.
X - Yeah, you are right, so I think, yes, errrr ummm, ok well the bump and pullstart might be one in the same heheheh.
I have some more burried in one of my other galleries too. This is the original setup with the tank mod.
X - Yeah, you are right, so I think, yes, errrr ummm, ok well the bump and pullstart might be one in the same heheheh.
Hey maxx traxx all you do it get a 90 degree full nipple pull of the lid and drill a hole a bit smaller than the threads on the nipple. WIth the lid off you will see a screw that you can remove take that and the oring off drill the hole and thread in the nipple make sure you use a smaller bit. It it is tough to get it started but that will mean you will get a good seal add a nole to the piece that you removed that hold on the o-ring and wa-lah thats it reintall and all is good.
As for setup what I did was dl each of the TL Team Drivers standard setups here and then I looked at all the things that were the same and started with that. There are a couple variations in that case if 2 out of 3 used one thing I went with that. These are really cool though and a great starting point. Of course trial and error on your track and seeing how the fastest person at your track is setup is also a good thing. X
P.S. "C" whats the damage on that kit from your guy?
As for setup what I did was dl each of the TL Team Drivers standard setups here and then I looked at all the things that were the same and started with that. There are a couple variations in that case if 2 out of 3 used one thing I went with that. These are really cool though and a great starting point. Of course trial and error on your track and seeing how the fastest person at your track is setup is also a good thing. X
P.S. "C" whats the damage on that kit from your guy?
- Thread starter
- #17
Thanks Christian. does anybody have pics of the drake modified for a pullstart engine?
Killer link x I printed the first three.This will be a huge help!!!
Oh another question what kind of starters are you two using I know you mentioned a bump starter and a pull start. but what kind of bump starter and how much is a bump starter? What is the advantage of using a bump starter over a pull start othe than a little weight?
Killer link x I printed the first three.This will be a huge help!!!
Oh another question what kind of starters are you two using I know you mentioned a bump starter and a pull start. but what kind of bump starter and how much is a bump starter? What is the advantage of using a bump starter over a pull start othe than a little weight?
