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racing help
- Thread starter craig-uk
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Not a whole lot of tips for you. It's like learning to ice skate, roller skate or ski. When you start, you're all over the place, and when you keep trying, you start gettin better.
It's all in throttle, braking and steering, and just like with a 1:1 car, If you only want to drive at 120 MPH, you'll have some problems with turns.
Stay with it, get used to how it drifts in turns, and when to get off or get on the throttle.
It's great once you get the hang of it. Good luck, and have fun with it.
It's all in throttle, braking and steering, and just like with a 1:1 car, If you only want to drive at 120 MPH, you'll have some problems with turns.
Stay with it, get used to how it drifts in turns, and when to get off or get on the throttle.
It's great once you get the hang of it. Good luck, and have fun with it.
- Thread starter
- #3
thats something I've noticed when i get up to a corner two of wich on my track have a very big camber on them the car kind of starts to turn into them why is this??
heres my track www.tibbymcrc.com
heres my track www.tibbymcrc.com
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Wow, that's a nice track. No flat paved tracks around here, just clay. Everyone is running MTs.
Hypedonrc
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The one and only on-road pavement track around here is pipe in a parking lot. They have one in Cincinnati though. All the others I've found are carpet, and I don't have an electric, unless you are talking X-Mods. LOL!!!!!!!!
Her is a link to the Cinci track.
http://www.tri-statercautoracers.com/index.htm
I hope to make it there this summer at least once.
Her is a link to the Cinci track.
http://www.tri-statercautoracers.com/index.htm
I hope to make it there this summer at least once.
Craig, the practice part is the most important part. THe more you practice, the better you get. Practice your throttle control. You didn't say if you have a front one way or not. If it' an open diff, coast into the turn and power out of the apex. If you have a front oneway, power through the turn, don't let off or you'll spin out. Also front oneways have little braking power. You'll have to turn down the brakes in order to keep from spinning out.
Stay in the middle of the track at first. Get comfortable with it. Slow is fast. The less time you spend on the boards, the faster your lap times will be. Remember, it's not full throttle or full brake. There are steps in between where modulation will be necessary when going around the track.
As you improve, try to get smoother in your turn transitions and try to tighten up your lines. If you ahve no idea what are good lines, watch the fast guys as they go around the track. Also pay close attention to how they use throttle control.
BEFORE you do anything, proper suspension setup and suspension tweak is critical with touring cars. Camber, toe and caster are an integral part of getting your car to handle correctly but don't mean squat if your suspenion tweak (balance via shock bodies) are not balanced. An imbalance will cause underor over steer conditions entering and exiting turns as well as on and off power situations.
I would suggest the new "Ultimate HUDY" setup board. The setup and tweak station are one unit. Expensive but any competative racer worth his salt will have one.
Which car are you racing? I race the NTC3 and Serpent710.
Stay in the middle of the track at first. Get comfortable with it. Slow is fast. The less time you spend on the boards, the faster your lap times will be. Remember, it's not full throttle or full brake. There are steps in between where modulation will be necessary when going around the track.
As you improve, try to get smoother in your turn transitions and try to tighten up your lines. If you ahve no idea what are good lines, watch the fast guys as they go around the track. Also pay close attention to how they use throttle control.
BEFORE you do anything, proper suspension setup and suspension tweak is critical with touring cars. Camber, toe and caster are an integral part of getting your car to handle correctly but don't mean squat if your suspenion tweak (balance via shock bodies) are not balanced. An imbalance will cause underor over steer conditions entering and exiting turns as well as on and off power situations.
I would suggest the new "Ultimate HUDY" setup board. The setup and tweak station are one unit. Expensive but any competative racer worth his salt will have one.
Which car are you racing? I race the NTC3 and Serpent710.
- Thread starter
- #8
thanx for the tips and yes it is a nice track especially when its not rainig which is a rarity in the UK, I've got a hpi rs4 3, alot of guys at that track use serpent 710's also
and its not pavement its tarmac just like a propper racetrack!!
and its not pavement its tarmac just like a propper racetrack!!
Camber is the relation of the tilted angle of the tire in relation to vertical.
Toe is the relation of the tilted angle of the tire in relation to horizontal
Caster is whether the wheel is being "pulled" or "pushed" by the car. I usually keep this at the stock setting because I am still unfamiliar with it. It is usually the last thing to adjust in any situation. It is supposed to give more or less turning in an of or on power turn. One way will track straighter in a turn the other will give a more agressive bite but less stability on the straight. I'd tell you which one specifically but I get it confused. I'm sure someone else will elaborate more.
Ackerman is the aggressiveness of the "turn in" of the wheels. If you look at the wheel in a full turn from the top, the wheel on the inside of the turn will be more agressively turned than the other.
Toe is the relation of the tilted angle of the tire in relation to horizontal
Caster is whether the wheel is being "pulled" or "pushed" by the car. I usually keep this at the stock setting because I am still unfamiliar with it. It is usually the last thing to adjust in any situation. It is supposed to give more or less turning in an of or on power turn. One way will track straighter in a turn the other will give a more agressive bite but less stability on the straight. I'd tell you which one specifically but I get it confused. I'm sure someone else will elaborate more.
Ackerman is the aggressiveness of the "turn in" of the wheels. If you look at the wheel in a full turn from the top, the wheel on the inside of the turn will be more agressively turned than the other.
jetmechG550
RCTalk VIP
Craig, get yourself the XXX Main Touring Car Setup guide, it's really handy to have. If you can find yourself a decent setup system like the PMB, Integy, or Hudy, get it. It will make a difference in just getting your car setup with a good baseline. Practice, practice and more practice.
How far is that track from London? I make there a couple times a year and would like to check it out if it's not too far.
How far is that track from London? I make there a couple times a year and would like to check it out if it's not too far.
jetmech is correct. The XXXMain guide is very good. Just remember to get you car to a baseline setting first (stock) then do one adjustment at a time so you don't get confused and frustrated. Also, before you do any of those adjustments, take care of ride height and droop first. These settings will offset your adjustments if done last.
You can also check www.hpiracing.com & check out some of the team driver setups
- Thread starter
- #14
i do alot of work in london its about 175 miles from there it takes about 2 1/2hrs to drive it, I've already downloaded those driver setups from hpi, what is droop???? so let me get this right camber is where the wheels are leaning inwards towards the car at the top and toe is if you look at it from the top the wheels will be pointing inwards?? is that right???
That is 100% correct craig! The droop detrmines the suspension travel of the car, according to track conditions. Tight, high traction groomed tracks will require less droop. Slippery, rough or uneven surfaced tracks will require more droop. It's like the bumpstops on your 1:1 car.
We have done it with firehose and cones. Some people use pvc pipes (don't glue them together so they seperate on contact).
If you go to your local firehouse, ask them where you can get condemned hose. They are usually free or a small donation is appreciated for the firemans benevolance assoc.
If you go to your local firehouse, ask them where you can get condemned hose. They are usually free or a small donation is appreciated for the firemans benevolance assoc.
