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R40 center force clutch installation problem

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M

minigiant

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This is my first kit and everything went well until I tried to break in my engine (O.S. Max .12 TR). Apparently, I didn't install the clutch correctly because the pinion gears aren't turning. What should I be looking for when I rebuild the clutch again (for the fifth freaking time) Another symptom that is present is the inboard pinion is backing out until it meets the outboard pinion. I think I would have really appreciated some text on that step of the instructions...HPI's manual was about as clear as mud.

Thanks in advance.
:stupid:
 
I can't really offer much help with the clutch. Just make sure you are installing the springs correctly, I know that tiny pic in the manuals is hard to see.

Neither of the pinions should be backing out. The motor spins in the opposite direction than the pinions are threaded.. so it would always be trying to tighten them.
 
yeah...haven't figured out why the pinions are backing off other maybe from flywheel recoiling in the wrong direction from failed bumpstarts.

Think my problems are from the clutch adjust nut. Which way to tighten the nut that compresses the main clutch spring to lower rpm engagement? Thanks


:breakdown
 
I'm bringing back this thread because I'm having similar problems on my R40...
In order to get my clutch to engage where I want, my nut spring is 1 1/2 turns from coming off... Is this a normal setting ? or should I tighten it more and just learn to drive with a higher rpm clutch engagement ? Also, is there a better way of adjusting this nut then taking the engine out of the car ?
 

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You do NOT have to remove the engine to adjust the clutch. There is a small hole in the clutch bell.

* Stick a 1.5mm allen wrench in the clutch bell hole.

* Spin the flywheel until the allen wrench falls into one of the slots in the clutch nut.

* Hold the wrench and spin the flywheel to adjust the nut.


As far as engagement goes, make sure the clutch is shimmed correctly.


With respect to pinions coming off, are you sure you are running the motor counter clockwise?


Apparently, I didn't install the clutch correctly because the pinion gears aren't turning.
Click to expand...

I am not sure I understand this question. With the motor off you should be able to push the car backwards and the clutch/pinions should spin free of the flywheel. You should also be able to spin the clutch bell and transmission spur opposite of normal engine rotation (opposite of forward transmission-vehicle motion). Everything should spin freely. If you cannot spin the clutch without moving the flywheel then I suspect improper clutch shimming or a hung up thrust bearing in the clutch bell.

Clockwise adjustment of the clutch nut means higher RPM engagement. Counter-clockwise adjustment of the clutch nut means lower RPM engagement.
 
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Sorry I was a little confussing... I'm only haveing probelms with the clutch engagment,
I can't see the hole in the clutch bell ? The clutch bell is part # 87091 right ?
 

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Yes, there is a hole in 87091. It is a very small hole right behind the pinions.
 
WOW... there is a small hole back there...
This is going to save me tons of time...
I was removing the engine every-time...
I feel like a big moron !
Thanks guys...
 
Cool.....

I would hate to have to remove the motor to adjust the clutch.
 
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Offtopic:

I would recommend using a Mugen clutch shoe and spring. Huge diffrence.
 
Bouzouki said:
The Mugen clutch is king imo, especially the Prospec version.
Click to expand...
Make a mental note ... Opinions are greatly appreciated but only when supported with feasable reasons.

Centax clutches (Ver 1-3 as well as the other variances) all work the same but all need to be tuned. Engagement, endplay, spring tension, clutch disc compounds ... all very important factors. The centax is only as good as the person tuning it. It's not the manufacturer that makes it "king." That's a fact, not an opinion.
 
Diver6127 said:
Make a mental note ... Opinions are greatly appreciated but only when supported with feasable reasons.

Centax clutches (Ver 1-3 as well as the other variances) all work the same but all need to be tuned. Engagement, endplay, spring tension, clutch disc compounds ... all very important factors. The centax is only as good as the person tuning it. It's not the manufacturer that makes it "king." That's a fact, not an opinion.
Click to expand...

The Mugen clutch is king imo

As far as engagement, endplay, spring tension, shimming, etc, yes, I already know the adjustments that need to be made to these.
 
Bouzouki said:
The Mugen clutch is king imo

As far as engagement, endplay, spring tension, shimming, etc, yes, I already know the adjustments that need to be made to these.
Click to expand...

great there goes another tangent from the master tangent maker. it's time to get this thread back on track.

here is a link that will help you with setting up your clutch. this applies to all push type/centax clutches. the information given by josh cyrul on clutch assembly and tuning is totally useful. he provides information on gap, endplay, etc.

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/clutch/index.php

you can't put the entire mugen clutch assembly but you may be able to use the red clutch shoe. i heard that it has plenty of grip.
 
sl0eg1n said:
great there goes another tangent from the master tangent maker. it's time to get this thread back on track.

here is a link that will help you with setting up your clutch. this applies to all push type/centax clutches. the information given by josh cyrul on clutch assembly and tuning is totally useful. he provides information on gap, endplay, etc.

http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/clutch/index.php

you can't put the entire mugen clutch assembly but you may be able to use the red clutch shoe. i heard that it has plenty of grip.
Click to expand...

The Mugen clutch was brought up, I simply said it was the best imo, don't take things so seriously.

BIG DEAL, it's my opinion.
 
one question Bouzouki have you tryed out any othere push style clutches??? thats really the only way to make a suggestion like that...
 
I have indeed.

All I said was the Mugen clutch was great, want to know why?

Because it works great for me and thats my opinion.

Why did I bring it up?

Because someone else brought it up.
 
It was brought up as an alternative to the R40 setup. I have helped enough people with their R40's at the track as well as Joey's, when setting up the clutch to know that it can be a pain but that's a givenwith any centax system.

I have limited experience with the mugen setup but it is comprable to the 710's system. The K-factory is what I used on my NTC3 (almost identical to the 710's except for the pinion's inner diameter.)

An opinion is only good when it can be compared to another similar or popular product. Without the pro's and con's given ... what good is the comparison? If there is no comparison, your opinion doesn't hold any substance.

If you cannot compare and give and examples to why you like it ... why bother.

Joey has brought up a question that has substance to it ... what are you comparing the mugen clutch system towards?
 

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