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- Thread starter hotrodrob
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BOUTCH
Hardcore RCTalk User
Not sure but wouldn't the half shaft from the 3.3 fit? traxxas#5456
BOUTCH
Hardcore RCTalk User
Sorry was just an idea, trying to help.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
It depends on which 3.3 chassis you have. Early standard length chassis would use a 57.5mm bone for the front. (measured from center of pin to pin)
The extended chassis would use a longer 85mm bone, UE never made a bone that would fit the extended chassis setup.
The extended chassis would use a longer 85mm bone, UE never made a bone that would fit the extended chassis setup.
BOUTCH
Hardcore RCTalk User
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
You could probably make it work, if too long you can grind a little off the back of the drive cup to gain a few mm’s.
You most likely will not find a Ti bone of that length. Where did you find a Ti bone to fit the 3.3 extended chassis rear shaft?
You most likely will not find a Ti bone of that length. Where did you find a Ti bone to fit the 3.3 extended chassis rear shaft?
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
A lot depends on what drive cups you are using as the whether which bones will or will not work. Some cups are bored deeper than others and a slightly longer bone can be used while other cups are not as deep and a shorter bone is needed.
I custom fit most of my diff inputs to accommodate the bones I use.
On the extended chassis front center I use a 83mm bone and then use the revo center differential diff pinions (they are substantially longer than the stock pinion) and cut the shaft to the exact length I want. With a bushing or shim between the front diff bearing and the back of the cup it will keep the pinion from being pushed in toward the rings gear and you can have a very long diff input pinion shaft if needed to make up the difference of a slightly short dogbone.
The only UE TI bone I know of that will come close to fitting the rear of the extended chassis tmaxx would be the 70mm bone (they are very rare). 77mm is the correct length bone for the extended chassis tmaxx and 70mm for the standard length chassis.
If that’s the bone you have (70mm), it will not work well with the extended chassis without using extended drive cups and shimming the bone to be centered in each cup. Even then 7mm is a lot to make up and the revo center diff pinion cut to fit would make up the difference.
I custom fit most of my diff inputs to accommodate the bones I use.
On the extended chassis front center I use a 83mm bone and then use the revo center differential diff pinions (they are substantially longer than the stock pinion) and cut the shaft to the exact length I want. With a bushing or shim between the front diff bearing and the back of the cup it will keep the pinion from being pushed in toward the rings gear and you can have a very long diff input pinion shaft if needed to make up the difference of a slightly short dogbone.
The only UE TI bone I know of that will come close to fitting the rear of the extended chassis tmaxx would be the 70mm bone (they are very rare). 77mm is the correct length bone for the extended chassis tmaxx and 70mm for the standard length chassis.
If that’s the bone you have (70mm), it will not work well with the extended chassis without using extended drive cups and shimming the bone to be centered in each cup. Even then 7mm is a lot to make up and the revo center diff pinion cut to fit would make up the difference.
Snook Man
Hardcore RCTalk User
OK I see you’re using a Monoblock, that uses a 100.5mm bone with the standard chassis.
Most people don’t realize the extended maxx chassis is actually about 7mm longer in the rear than the standard chassis so with the mono block it leaves the bone a little short. Just use small o-rings or thin slices of fuel tubing in the cup to center the bone. Not so many or too thick that there is no free play though, the bone needs some play so the diff input pinion is not pushed into the ring gear.
Most people don’t realize the extended maxx chassis is actually about 7mm longer in the rear than the standard chassis so with the mono block it leaves the bone a little short. Just use small o-rings or thin slices of fuel tubing in the cup to center the bone. Not so many or too thick that there is no free play though, the bone needs some play so the diff input pinion is not pushed into the ring gear.