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quick question about the carb

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adeezy9183

adeezy9183

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hey guys, so i finally got the revo together after 3 months give or take. i got it all in pieces, and everytime i would start building i would need something i didn't have and order it. that must've hapened a dozen times. damn tower hobbies is probably loving me...lol anyways, i went out to run the first tank of break in. i checked over everything. all electronics were working...filled it up and primed it. i tried to start it(converted to pull start) and it was getting fuel and spark from the sound of it. so i went to double check the high and low speed needle, so i tightened the high speed all the way in and once i got near the end, the whole housing started to turn. so i got a socket that fit and attempted to tighten the housing. it just turned and wouldn't get any tighter. it's stripped. NOW, my question is what can i do to fix this? other than the obvious reason of getting a whole new carb. can i just redneck it with some teflon tape? lol what are your guys thoughts. sorry to make u read so much....
 
If you are talking about the whole carb itself, it is not threaded. The carb is held in place by a pinch bolt. If the housing is rotating, tighten the pinch bolt.

I am trying to see in my minds eye what exactly you got a socket around though.

Traijin
 
You need a new carb. Rigging it will cause a lot of problems. Make sure you don't tighten the needles tight. They stop when they're bottomed out. Turn them in lightly.
 
I'm not talking about the whole carb itself...I'm talking about the high speed needle housing...below where u turn the needle to adjust the fuel mixture is a brass looking piece that u can use a wrench or a deep well socket to tighten it up. and metalhead i wasn't torqueing on it. when i went to tighten it i was already stripped....i can't really complain though i got it all for free. ohh well. what's a new carb $40? anyone got one laying around? i know the 2.5 and 3.3 both have the same carb. could that have made it not start though?
 
yea that's what i meant. the carb itself. when i pulled out the housing it had plastic threads all over it from the carb. what's a good place to order one from? tower has them for around $40 but if u know cheaper, hook a brother up...thanks for ur help
 
wy dont you move the HSN to the other hole and seal up the stripped one with the silver screw and good RVT silicone ...

just an idea...I'm sure something can be done
 
i have a revo 3.3 ...and on the carb , where the HSN is ...there are 2 flat silver screws ...one right under it on the side of the carb ...and one that points to the front ....thats so you can switch it places depending on the way you mount your carb......your HSN will just point to the front instead .
 
Metalhead Matt said:
I always thought those were molded in... Interesting.
Click to expand...

nope..they come off ..goes good to clean the carb ;)..take your allen wrench

Macguyver said:
i have a revo 3.3 ...and on the carb , where the HSN is ...there are 2 flat silver screws ...one right under it on the side of the carb ...and one that points to the front ....thats so you can switch it places depending on the way you mount your carb......your HSN will just point to the front instead .
Click to expand...


the one to the side is not the same size ...but the front one is ;)
 
adeezy9183 said:
here is a pic of the carb....http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=001603120&I=LXDGA3&P=K

and that's a great idea. i'll mess with it soon. thanks for the advice buddy. i should've known that it was good info with a name like mcguyver....lol

do u guys think that that could've been why it wasn't starting?
Click to expand...

:D no prob ;) lol..

if to much air was going in , prob didnt help ....i suggest sealing the metal washers where the fuel line connector is as well ...i noticed there wasn't any kind of seal there ..just metal on plastic ...by putting RVT silicone , you dont have to tight it to much to get a good seal ,,and less chance of stripping it ;)

heres a pic of mine

picture.php
 
shoot ...i just checked on my truck ...and if you move it , the spur gear will be in the way i think ...unless you flip the carb over , but might be more a pain than just to get a new carb....

i would try gluing it there with J-B weld or something ...worth a shot
 
yea i was just about to mention that. i guess i could try the jb weld thing.
 
if you do , make sure everything is very clean, no oil at all ..pure alcohol should work .... and i would put a bit of J-B on the treads to .. then a good bead around it all ....to make the J-B weld cure faster , put it near a good heat source ..it says 24h on the product ...but i cured it within a few hours that way ...and it holds well ;)
 
all you need is a $12 carb body, only SNUG it, it doesn't need to be tight and will strip very easily.
 

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