• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

pull start

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

imnotsure

RCTalk Addict
Messages
753
Reaction score
0
Points
0
RC Driving Style
were can i find a pull start for ofna .26 thinking about jump or roto but not sure yet.looked all over the net and can't find anything.


i have a part # for the roto start nut/spacer (39298) but can't find it
 
Last edited:
I'd think that the HPI PS for the 21bb would work in a pinch, since the rotostart fits the picco .26 Christian would know better than me, and he has the roto on the picco.
 
Skip that spacer, not even knowing how much it is, its prob too much. I put a bearring in for all of 2.50 $ and it worked FLAWLESSLY! The spacer is acutally an old OFNA part number so most places will show it as discontinued (silly - I know!). Again, I dont know how much it costs either. But 2.50 for a bearring and you accomplish the same thing.

If you need anything else, let me know.
 
i tried the 21 bb pull start & the 2nd time i started it the nut striped the pull start out.it was a good try i thought also.
 
got my rotostart today. that's the coolest thing since toilet paper!!
if i'd only known how good they work, i would've got one a long time ago. i'll never use a pull start again. thanks christian!! for all your help.
 
yes i was not sure at first were it would go, but after i got it it made sense.
 
:thumbup:

Congrats buddy! Now you can be certain that shaft/nut wont back out. One other pointer to help save on the gears in the motorized unit itself. When you hold it upright, and press the button with your thumb, you may hear the gears grind. Just flip it over and use your finger to hit the button instead. I dont hear ANY grinding upside down and its just as easy to do.

Also, run the shaft through the bumper to get a more straight on attack. It seems to help.

And whatever you do, dont try to force it if you suspect hydro-lock. This thing has enough force to break a con-rod when fully charged.

Lastly, you can always use a drill if you prefer :bling;
 
Hey Chris what does that bearing look like or where can I get one? I've been looking for a 12mmX5mm hex nut, but can't find one and that Ofna nut is $14 bucks (what a rip). Thanks
 
Ill mic it up for the dimensions in the morning. I have to pull it out to check it. Dont recall what size it was, I just matched it up at the LHS while I had the backplate and mill in hand. :shrug:

I think it was a 5x12. Inner diameter doesn't matter.
 
So it was just a round bearing??? hmmm I might have one laying around somewhere.
 
Originally posted by TwiZtiD25
Hey Chris what does that bearing look like or where can I get one? I've been looking for a 12mmX5mm hex nut, but can't find one and that Ofna nut is $14 bucks (what a rip). Thanks


the one i used is a duratraxx 6x12mm dtxc1569 (part#).
 
Back
Top