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Pull Start eliminator RC10GT2

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alien

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I have a RTR GT2 with the stock .15 AE motor I beleive it is. I have read various things about the shaft being diff than other motors and you can't use the diff eliminators on the market. I am wanting to race this truck and figured the pull start has to be coting me some power. Can i just take the pull start off and use some kind of drill start on the shaft, or do I need to completely remove the shaft and plug the hole in the motor with some sort of plate and use a box to gain the rpm and power back? If I can just pull off the puller and use a drill system of some sort on the current shaft, wwho makes one that will work with my motor.
Also I am new to racing and I wil probably just be doing some club racing this first season to hone my skills and have no idea but will I be able to run the Stock .15 motor or am I going to have to replace it with a .12 to even be allowed to race?
 
alien said:
I have a RTR GT2 with the stock .15 AE motor I beleive it is. I have read various things about the shaft being diff than other motors and you can't use the diff eliminators on the market. I am wanting to race this truck and figured the pull start has to be coting me some power. Can i just take the pull start off and use some kind of drill start on the shaft, or do I need to completely remove the shaft and plug the hole in the motor with some sort of plate and use a box to gain the rpm and power back? If I can just pull off the puller and use a drill system of some sort on the current shaft, wwho makes one that will work with my motor.
Also I am new to racing and I wil probably just be doing some club racing this first season to hone my skills and have no idea but will I be able to run the Stock .15 motor or am I going to have to replace it with a .12 to even be allowed to race?
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As far as I know that probably wouldn't be such a great Idea to do that. Also the engine will probably have to be a .12

As far as to remove the back plate they make engines that don't come with them and you use a bump start to star them. Its a little rubber wheel that turns the flywheel.

Novarossi

TeamAssociatedStarterBox

Notice how the engine has no backplate.
 
Bumpstart is the way to go if you're going to race. A decent box with a 12V gel cell in it will last a full weekend of racing/bashing. And it's a lot better than leaving the engines' starter shaft exposed.

If you go with the starter box, you may want to look into the parts to convert the engine to bump start.
 
thnx for the input. You both pretty much told me what I was thinking as well. I can buy the plate that the shaft for the pullstart comes through that converts my engine to a non pullstart for about 7$ and then I would just need a starter box. I was thinking the extra drag of the shaft would slow it down more than just noth aving it at all. I als dont like the idea of the exposed shaft. Now to build my starter box. Anyone have any preferences in starter boxes based on the rubber wheel used? I need to buy the rubber wheel from one of the various boxes out there to go in my new project and i know they all have different compositions and surely one is prefered over the others. I work at a metal shop and have acess to everything needed to make one so I figured I would save myself some money and have some fun at the same time. Also if there are any parts anyone is wanting but can't find anyone that makes them, I have full cnc aluminum mills and punches to work with, if you can draw it I can probably make it. I'm not great with welding alum yet but a coworker that loves rc is so Ill make him do it =P
 
Or, you can paruse the for sale section for a good starter box that's pre-made, and at a great price. Even new, a decent starter box would run between 60-100, pending on brand, drive type, if a gel cell is included, etc.

If you can find it, the XTM dual 550 starter box is a great box. I use it to start my RC10GT. Plenty of torque, even on a brand new engine.
 

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