PRP Swift

[HP Invent]

Re: Re: Re: Diff's

Originally posted by asar
Thanks HP Invent

So I assume the silicone oils are ok during factory installation and there is no need to open it and re-lube it with silicone oil?

As for the noise..... it means it's too tight and should have a bigger gap between the metal gear mesh?

I checked and opened the clutch to check if it's the one shaving off but it looks ok. However, after every run i still notice some black shaved plastic in center diff/brake area. But not as many as during the first runs though.

I went ahead and changed the diff oils for the front/ctr/rear diffs myself.

Yes, you got it. The mesh between the spur and pinion are too tight ( or close to together ). Just loosen the engine mount allens from the bottom of the chassis and adjust accordingly. It shouldn't have too much movement or set too tight. The spur and pinion should spin freely.

I had the same black shaving from my car. I have ran about 3/4 gallons through my motor ( racing and bashing ) and I get lesser black shavings from my clutch. The clutch still looks good. :w00t:

 

[asar]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Diff's

HP Invent, thanks. At least I know now that it's normal and I did not install the clutch the other way around. I was set to open the clutch.

Won't this black shavings thin out the clutch in the long run? I guess we will have to buy a new clutch sooner or later.

Would you recommend changing the diff oil or just leave it as is?

Originally posted by HP Invent


I went ahead and changed the diff oils for the front/ctr/rear diffs myself.

Yes, you got it. The mesh between the spur and pinion are too tight ( or close to together ). Just loosen the engine mount allens from the bottom of the chassis and adjust accordingly. It shouldn't have too much movement or set too tight. The spur and pinion should spin freely.

I had the same black shaving from my car. I have ran about 3/4 gallons through my motor ( racing and bashing ) and I get lesser black shavings from my clutch. The clutch still looks good. :w00t:

 

[HP Invent]

Re: Re: Re: Re: Re: Diff's

Originally posted by asar

Would you recommend changing the diff oil or just leave it as is?

I would leave it as is. I just changed it cause I just wanted to see and feel how the diff oil was. Its all good :coffee:

 

[asar]

Opened the clutch to confirm if the black shavings came from the clutch shoe.:whack:

Yes. It's confirmed. The clutch shoe wears easily. In fact you will see black shavings in the carb/mid diff/brake area everytime you make a run. I wonder if the material used is a good quality clutch shoe material. Looks like the clutch shoe will wear off in a month or so.

If anyone knows a spray or solvent that can maximize the grip and minimize the shavings, please post.

 

[Lightfytr]

Well, I have just been baptized back into the hobby. Opened my new swift (beautiful), switched out steering servo, loctite almost everything. Broke in the engine, very nice. Great power again I am a newbie so what do I know. Had all the neighbors looking to see what the comotion was in the street. Then later went the the open field, hauling "A", you know the car seemed to handle like a dream (again I'm a newbie), then smacked the only piece of metal sticking out of the ground in this wide open field. Needless to say a mack truck would have had some problems too after that. Overall not bad, broken rear lower arm. I will tell you this bad boy has me smiling though. I also saw the shavings from the clutch. Let me know what your plan of action is. I am very satisfied even though I'm in the pit for a while, I guess I will be calling around everywhere tomorrow for parts. Merry Christmas.
:marshall:
pps:

 

[HP Invent]

You might wanna try sheldon's hobbies in California. I know they have a mail order section in thier store.

 

[FastEddy]

I have ordered from Sheldon's in the past and had a good experience. Knowledgeable sales people and prompt shipping.

-Ed

 

[HP Invent]

Originally posted by FastEddy
I have ordered from Sheldon's in the past and had a good experience. Knowledgeable sales people and prompt shipping.

-Ed

Yeah, me too. Just make sure before you order to ask for the "car counter". Sometimes, I know they get busy, but just hold on and someone from the counter will awnser. This way, they can physically check stock on hand for you before you place that order. I use thier 800-822-1688 number to order. Its toll free :breakdown

 

[Lightfytr]

Well I was in the pit until yesterday, I couldn't wait for my parts to come in so I went and bought a rear lower arm for the mbx5 and a front suspension arm for the mbx5. Had to do a little mr wizard cutting and drilling but I'm up and running, it's amazing how close the two are. My luck I say. Anyway she was tearing up a down the trails by the house and getting everyones attention. I am still tuning the engine, but everytime I lean it out it gets quicker and quicker and the engine still isn't hot yet. Very satisfied so far. Just put in a 1200 reciever pack, WOW what a difference in the steering power. I can't wait for Hobbytron to list the parts online next month. I will post some pics soon. Should be able to hit the track this weekend. Keep ya'll posted.:fro:
:LoL:

 

[Lightfytr]

Finally got some pics up of my new Swift. Still trying to get her dialed in. Handling pretty well. Unfortunately I have broken all 4 lower suspension mounts (at different times), most likely my fault for running in to stuff at like 30-40mph, but no big deal. Very impressed so far. Power racing said they will have some aluminum ones available next month. For now just using some other brands that I have rigged. Whatever works, right?

:w00t:
:breakdown

Parts are now available online:
http://www.atlashobbies.com/8th_off_road/8th_prp_swift/swift_parts.htm

 

[racer rich]

Hello everyone.

I am new to this forum and also a new Swift owner. I have been racing since 97 (mostly electric on-road/off-road) and have had my fair share of kits. Losi's, Associated's, Trinity's, Kawada's, Ofna's, Tamiya's, Kyosho's, etc, etc, etc. A few days ago I saw this buggy at my LHS and was VERY IMPRESSED. I have had my Kinwald Edition buggies, my Graphite Plus trucks, and I have to say the quality was very good. If it was ARR without engine/radio/servos, I would have bought it on the spot.

I called up happytime (the distributor) and asked about an ARR version. The gentleman on the phone had to be nicest fellow I have spoken with that was affiliated with RC, or better yet anything for that manner. Very pleasant, caring and helpful. He was able to accomodate me. Through my LHS, I ordered and ARR Swift for $299.99.

It will be here tomorrow. He already gave me instructions to locktite everything--including the universals.

I am pretty new to gas and completely new to 1/8 scale buggies. I will be on here alot with tuning/setup questions and I hope we can generate a very informative thread like there is for more prevalent cars.

Other than locktite-ing all metal-to-metal parts, is there anything else I should do to get it race-ready? Right after I break my engine in I will be racing at the track (this Sunday), so I want to get everything set.

The last time I raced was nearly 2 years ago. I am so psyched to be back in it!:winnar:

See ya around,

Rich

 

[asar]

racer rich. just don't short cut on putting locking adhesives on all 6 CVJ's (including the 2 in the center). I did all 4 on wheels and got lazy to do the centers and ended in the pits on the race track. All metal to metal screws lock tite them as well. Check all screws every 2 tanks, they tend to loosen up. I've been running my Swift in the tracks and others with Kyosho Kanai's and Ofna's are very impressed with the way the Swift handles and turn corners. Change shock oils to 70 or 80 wt. to handle bigger jumps. My stock shock oil bottoms out the buggy on big big jumps. I'll be changing it to to 70 or 80 tonight.

 

[HP Invent]

Racer Rich: Do what I did to my CVJ's. You'll notice that there are 2 set-screws in the barrel with-in the CVJ unit. Remove one set-screw and loc-tite the other. Instead of having 2 set-screws, you'll only need one ( kinda like the CVD configuration ). I did this to all my CVJ's on all four corners and the 2 center shafts. I even tried forcing out the pin inside the CVJ's with a ice-pick just to see how well they held up and that pin didn't budge at all :bling: . Let us know if you have any more questions.

 

[TURBO JOHNNY]

racer rich...

enjoy your swift! it is a nice buggy and

Cameron from PRP racing is kewl!!

and just read all the post on the swift buggy I think theres 3 differant threads on it ..

HAPPY NEW YEAR EVERYONE!!

how time fly"s away from us...RACE ON
TURBO JOHNNY



:redbuggy:

 

[Lightfytr]

Well, I'm in Houston right now and I pretty much bought every part the hobby shop here has for the swift. Finally got my shock oil changed out, put in 80wt. We'll see how it does, seems a little stiff but I guess thats because it was so loose before. Rained yesterday couldn't get on the track so I'm pretty excited about getting on there today. Shimmed up the center diff on both sides with very thin washers and put 7000wt diff fluid. seems a lot smoother. Has anyone played around with the caster adjustment, I moved one of the spacers forward, don't know what difference it will make yet. I will let yall know how my mods are doing.

 

[TURBO JOHNNY]

caster

...moving the shims to the forward position ,,arms back further,, will give you more exit speed steering coming out of the corner,
and less steering while entering the corner

shims in the back of the arms, like stock, moving the arms as far forward as possible gives you the most steering coming in to the corners..coming out of the corners you will push a bit losing exit speed
I believe some new upper arms are in the works for us to get us even more steering than now.

I"m driving on indoor hi bite clay tracks with ofna x-pins
steering feels good with some tweaking on the brakes

outdoor is always a differant story..
no outdoor track open here in washington until about march
outdoors is the best!!
RACE ON!!
TURBO JOHNNY


,

 

[asar]

turning

HI! My Swift has a Sanwa Hi torque Hi Speed servo for steering ( See Gallery). It's quick to turn to the right but has some difficulty turning left. It seems that the design of the servos laying under makes it easier to push the steering than pulling. I've checked it several times if something is binding or if the screws on steering racks are too tight or the pivot balls, but all are ok.

At 85 ATV it already hits the post of the carbon fiber tray. Is this normal?

 

[TURBO JOHNNY]

.I use airtronics servos for sterring also,, you have to put a really long arm on it and mine almost hits also but mine goes lock to lock on both sides...RACE ON!!
TURBO JOHNNY

 

[asar]

I ran today and before i could start putting the car on the track the CVJ pin in the rear center diff came loose again and popped out while reving up my engine. That has been locked tite and loose 3X before. Front center CVJ 2X. So i tried just putting 1 set screw.

After a two tanks my buggy started to slow down. Checked the rear diffs bevels and clutch but both are ok. Now i have to dismantle the center diff. Looks like something like a gear there came loose or a bevel gear got screwed or a pin went off. Feels like gears don't mesh properly like gears skips or something.

I noticed other thing when i opened the transmissions though:
1. No grease on steel pinion gear area(part no 11612) and steel ring gear (part no 11610).
2. Both differential outdrives (part no 11609) in the rear wheels are not hardened steel. The dogbone pins has slowly eaten the opening of the outdrives.
3. The screws that hold the aluminum chasis brace and the chasis always.... always.... gets loose ( even if you keep putting on lock tite )

 

[TURBO JOHNNY]

it sounds like the center diff might not be shimmed right,,
my rear diff after a couple hard tanks started locking up and the fix for it,
was to shim one side of the drivecup gears out a couple shims
I believed the mesh was to loose on the gears inside so I pulled
it apart drained the silicon fluid
held the half with the gears and spun it ,,there the problem was binding but no visual damage
so i pulled the 4 little coneshaped gears that ride in the diff
and the 2 big gears that they spin,,left and right drivecups,,
that is what i shimmed

I pulled 1 out, they just lift off with needlenose,and just ride on top of a pin
slide the pin out and put 2 shims on the shaft put the pin in and
put the big gear back on the shaft then install the next 4 gears with shafts that ride against it
put the screws in and spin it to feel how the mesh
if the problem is fixed
fill with your favorite weight silicon oil and reassemble


on mine the teeth were binding together at the highest point
no gears were damaged but it would crunch and lock and spin like posi sometimes not a very good sound
I hope that helps
I have noticed that the auctual mesh between the big ring gear and pinion are a bit loose too.
I have only fixed my rear little gears ,the center and front are still stock shim settings as is the ring and pinion setting on mine ..

I just explained in detail cause it could help people in the future
sorry for the long post but hope it helps

been sick all week but wanna go race today,,
RACE ON!!
TURBO JOHNNY