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Progressive suspension question......

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chrisexv6

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  1. Bashing
A little along the lines of what Mike02VR6 just posted, but different shocks:

I just rebuilt 2 of the 8 EDC-2 shocks on my truck. The first one (I have to admit, my first shock rebuild ever) rebounds fully, just like the instructions say.

However, the second one feels like it needs a lot less "oomph" to compress fully. It still rebounds fully like it should, but requires less pressure to compress completely than the first one.

My question to all the good RCNT-ers is: which one is correct? Should it be noticeably tough to compress completely, or should it be relatively easy to? I'm out of time for tonight, otherwise Id build a 3rd and see what happens, but with my luck it will end up different than the other two!!!

Also, as Çh®i§tiªñ alluded to, should I be purposely setting them up to NOT have much pressure to compress, in the worry it might blow the seals? I know, EDC's may be overkill for bashing, but I got a really REALLY good deal on them. I can always sell them, but I figured good shocks could be a nice splurge for my 'Maxx :)

Thanks in advance!!!
-Chris
 
They rebound fully without the springs?

To me thats a little too much. Not saying its not right, just too much for me. Coming from a person who has popped a couple o shocks. I keep my shocks full to the brim. Enough so that when I thread the caps, after being blead of air, that oil will run down the shock body. I just dont want the bladders inverting on me completely like a pancake at all times.

Some will reason that a fully rebounding shock, that rebounds slowly, without the springs, is good. I see that being ok for short shaft on-road applications.

For off-road, like buggy and monster truck, a 16th or 1/4 inch of rebound is the most I will go for, again, without the springs.

From there, I let the springs do the rebound work. Dual rate plates by RPM make a WORLD of difference too. They allow the springs to work MUCH faster than normal while still allowing the oil to provide the desired resistance for compression.

Thats just my thoughts.

Others will be different I'm sure.
 
Any idea how to cut down on the full rebound? I filled the shocks like the instructions said, all the way to the top of the body, then put the reservoir cap on.

Perhaps I should leave them at the 1/4" from top during bleed, and then bleed THAT air out after putting the reservoir caps on?

I'm afraid my truck will jump right off the ground if I drop it more than a foot.

-Chris
 
Maybe you put more shock oil in one then you did in the other. Thats all i can think of for now.....Nick
 
I confirmed with Progressive today that the proper build is for full rebound, even when bashing.......they said the design should prevent the shocks from blowing out. I'm still a little leary as to why Integy piggybacks are assembled/bled so much differently.

Nonetheless, I will go easy on them at first and see what happens. If I blow a cap or two after a tiny little jump, then I know Progressive was blowing smoke (I for one believe them, they make very good stuff, and I can't see them tarnishing a good rep on little RC shocks). They are at least rebuilt, I can always re-bleed them later.

Thanks for the help!!
-Chris
 
dont forget to top them off after the sponge soaks up some oil. You will find after a few days they naturally wont rebound without springs because of that. But, you do need to top them off.

I guess its just personal preference for me.

All good man :thumbup:
 
Yeah, ill keep track of them. They didnt require as much force to compress fully today, as they did last night, so you are probably correct.

I'm not worried about preferences just yet :) I spent the first season getting the truck running and learning how to tune. Now I can play with suspension setups, so if full rebound turns out to be bad, Ill just re-do it :) This hobby is turning out to be fun after all, at least I'm learning things.

-Chris
 
Its FOREVER a learning experience. Trust me. I learn something new almost every day.

When you get to 'matching' all of your shocks, you may find that the full rebound is tougher to achieve than thought. That was one other reason I went to little rebound. It was easier for me to achieve.

One really kickass mod for shocks is the RPM dual stage plates. If there is one thing I found to be an awesome upgrade to ANY shock, it was those. They allow the springs to show their true value and still allow the weight of the oils to do their true job. Your tires will spend more time on the ground where they belong. (when on loose terrain where it can get a little hairy)

check them out if you get the chance. I think you will be pleased.
 
Heh, I was just looking at RPMs site, and specifically those pistons. The little fine print says it wont work with externally dampened shocks, like the Progressives.

But if I had big-bores, or even stockers, Id definitely be looking into those pistons. They look like a really useful product. Did I mention I love RPM? :)

-Chris
 
I've sent an email to RPM to get the LxWxH of these pistons. I'd like to know if they'll fit in my Integy MSR4s. Stay tuned....

- bomber
 
Originally posted by bomber
I've sent an email to RPM to get the LxWxH of these pistons. I'd like to know if they'll fit in my Integy MSR4s. Stay tuned....

- bomber
Click to expand...

Here's the response I just got...

RPM Answer Man says:
I don't know for sure if the pistons will work in your shocks (Integy MSR4). However, I do have the dimensions of our two-stage shock pistons (part# 80430).

http://www.rpmrcproducts.com/products/traxxas/MaxxPts.htm#Pistons

Outside piston diameter is 0.400",
shock shaft diam. is 0.125",
overall distance between e-clips is 0.100",
and e-clip bore diameter in the floating piston is approx. 0.245".

Please let me know
your results.
Click to expand...

I'm going to compare these with the spare pistons I have for my MSR4s. Stay tuned....


- bomber
 
I've had to lightly sand them to get them to fit in the big bores and they are the same diameter I believe.

Should be a fit.

Ill pop a shock and dry fit them tonight for you. I have both the plates and some new MSR4's
 
March 2004 Issue of Radio Control Car Action

Pages 196-198

Great Reading on shock matching. Including using the new Losi Shock Match tool (which is kickass).

Yes, they mention not to have them rebound only but a mm or two. ;)

Good reading.
 
Christian did you get the RPM pistons to fit you MSR4'S I would be interested in this conversion if it works.

Thanks,
MIchael
 
Only in my ones for the TMaxx, I wasn't paying mind to the savage shocks. I have them on order. As soon as they come in, I will let you know.

:thumbup:
 
so they work on the tmaxx msr4's? sweet have you driven it yet or just a dry test fit?


~Michael
 
Well from first glance, I dont think that they will work. The shafts on these things are absolutely HUGE!!!!!

I will see if its going to be an easy mod to make them work tonight. Maybe my body reamer will come in a lot more handy than I thought.
 

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