Problem with New Savage 25

[geardigger]

Trying to get this thing up and running and having a bit of a problem. I got it to start up ok but after running for about 15 seconds it flat out died. No problem, just start er up again....same thing 15-20 seconds later. This is all it will do.

Some things to note: The idle seems really, really high. I checked the high/low/idle settings against what they were supposed to be at the factory and they all appeared to be correct. I have tried turning the idle up/down and makes no difference.

I am at a complete loss. I can't get it to stay running and I can't get it to idle so the wheels arent spinning to beat all hell.

Anyone help me out on this one?

 

[Doggie]

Hmm, it sounds like my Truckzilla .46 engine. It doesn't like too much oil in the fuel. How much oil is in your fuel? Do you get lots of oil coming out of the pipe?
My LHS only stock fuel witth 20% oil, and I had to get custom mixed fuel with 14% oil to get the Truckzilla to run.

 

[geardigger]

20% There does seem to be a bit of oil coming out of the pipe, I was just attributing this to the fact that it isnt starting right away. takes a good 2 or 3 tries with the roto start to get this beast going at all....Think it may be starving for fuel?

 

[Doggie]

I think so. Try using 14-16% oil.

 

[FRIDGE]

its new. is this the first time that you are starting it up? (for the break in process) read the hpi manual see what the stock carbeurator settings are and adjust them to that. i have never heard of fuel causing a prob but i learn somehting new everyday (thanks doggie!) what type of fuel are you running to try to break it in?

 

[geardigger]

I am using Trinity Monster fuel. Its the only thing my LHS had. Is that bad fuel? Also, it is brand new and I am going through the break in process. So far I am following the Engine guide to the letter. One thing I did notice is that the roto start seems to be having a rather hard time turning the engine over. It got to the point last time I tried (about 10 minutes ago) it only turned a couple of times, then acted like something had jammed. The roto start tool got pretty warm to say the least.

I am backing off of it for now until I can gather some more information and troubleshoot this a little better. If you guys have any input, I would really like to hear it.

Thanks!

 

[Doggie]

i have never heard of fuel causing a prob but i learn somehting new everyday (thanks doggie!) what type of fuel are you running to try to break it in?

At first, I also couldn't believe that it's possible to have too much oil in the fuel. Afterall, that's what the LHS around me sell and my OS 15 CVRX engine (on the Nitro MT) can take 14-20% oil, 5-20% nitro, any weather, and still run well (I love my OS).
But after snapping the pullstart several times and getting blisters, I would try anything except throwing that .46 engine in the trash.

Geardigger, it sounds like your engine has too much fuel in the engine due to overpriming or failing to start the engine too many times. Take the glowplug off and spin the engine with the rotostart, see if it spins easily. You might want to check if the glowplug actually glows bright orange while it's off.

Other things worth trying when starting the engine:
Fully charge the glowplug heater.
Heating up the engine with a hairdryer first.
Opening the throttle slightly, and closing it back to idle once the engine fires.

But I think getting fuel with lower oil content is a good idea.

 

[FRIDGE]

geardig
its funny that you mention that about the toro starter. the same thing would ahppen to me on a fresh battery charge. that brings another thing make sure you have a good battery in your roto starter. i dont quite know how to solve the roto start problem if its not the battery.

 

[geardigger]

I think the problem might be that its flooded. I found some other information on the forums here with other people having the same issue. I took the out the glow plug and the air filter to kind of give everything the "once over". HPI states they set the idle screw so the gap is about 2MM wide. I am finding on mine that might not be the case. I am getting ready to measure and adjust now.

The low speed setting looked like it might be off too. When I went to close the screw I noticed that it went far more turns then the factory setting of 3. Mine went more like 5 turns. So I adjusted that as well.

Going to put er back together here and see what happens. I will let you all know how the battle goes.

OK, so here's what happened.

Took out glow plug.
Used Roto Start-->started spinning like mad after spraying out some fuel.
Tested Glow Plug-->glow plug is in excellent condition.
Idle adjust looks off, dont have a tool to measure the 2mm gap its to have.

Took a bit to turn over and start running but once it started......!!!!! Here is the problem I now face. With the radio and receiver turned off I hooked up the plug heater and roto start. Once it started that thing was screaming like it was being pegged on the radio side.

I guess I have been out of the field too long because I'm not sure why its doing that or how to fix it.... I think once I get this problem fixed I will be able to get it through the break-in process and have me some fun.


So in other words........HELP!!

 

[Doggie]

Took a bit to turn over and start running but once it started......!!!!! Here is the problem I now face. With the radio and receiver turned off I hooked up the plug heater and roto start. Once it started that thing was screaming like it was being pegged on the radio side.

Good to hear that you get the engine started. I think 2mm is a bit much for idle, although it's good for getting the engine to start. I think 1mm is more like it.

Try too loosen the idle adjustment screw just enough so that the carb can shut all the way. With the transmitter and receiver on, set the neutral position (from the transmitter) so the carb opens about 1mm. Switch the receiver off, open the carb a little more (to 2 or 3mm) and start the engine. It's going to run like mad when it starts, now switch the receiver back on again. This will bring the carb opening back to 1mm and the rpm should go down (or the engine dies).
If the engine dies, set the neutral position again so that the carb opens a bit more than 1mm. Start the engine again.
If the engine still runs too fast, while the engine still running, set the neutral position back until the wheels spin slowly. You don't need to get the wheels to stop spinning completely during break in (that's what the box under the truck is for)
You can switch the receiver and transmitter off now (make sure to switch the receiver off first)

As the break in progresses, the engine will rev faster, so you'll just have to readjust the neutral position again. When you're done with the static break in, set the neutral so the engine idles without the wheels spinning. Then gently tighten the idle adjustment screw so the engine will not die off when you hit the brake.

Sorry if I sound like I'm talking to a newbie, but that's what I would do if I face the same problem as you. I'm no tuning expert, just trying to help. I wish the instructions had told me to do those things.

 

[rossb]

The low speed setting looked like it might be off too. When I went to close the screw I noticed that it went far more turns then the factory setting of 3. Mine went more like 5 turns. So I adjusted that as well.

You have to hold the carb slide when looking for the LSN seated point. Make sure you reset the carb using these instructions:

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=68210

From your posts above it sounds like you are flooding the engine. Make sure when you prime that you stop priming right when the fuel hits the carb. If you continue to use the rotostart with a flooded engine you will break the one-way bearing on the back of the engine.

20% Trinity Monster fuel is fine. Be sure to use the same fuel throughout the entire life of your motor.

Brand new motors are sometimes hard to start and keep running. If the motor will not idle down then you have a misadjusted carb idle screw, carb linkage, or radio trim.

 

[Doggie]

Now I see why Hotbodies measure the LSN setting from the point where the screw head is flush with the outside. ;

 

[geardigger]

Doggie, Thanks a ton for all of the info, no offense taken at all. After being out of this hobby for 5 1/2 years I do feel like a newb all over again! No worries, I think getting these things to run is half the fun! (That and the frustration it causes makes a good excuse to have a beer or two....or ten ) I will certainly give this a try.

Rossb, that link you provided is kick a$$, that is exactly what I was looking for. Thanks again for the help you guys. It's always good to know that people still give a damn and are willing to lend a helping hand.

Beers are on me! :trashed: