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PRIMER Discussion

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SkyMaxx

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I just now saw some pictures and read some posts that show the HPI tank having a primer button. So this tank has a front side bottom feed and a primer buttom? Did HPI not do their homework?

First, the front side feed...not smart, baffels or no, the fuel tank is better served with a back side bottom feed.

Second, was HPI not watching while TRAXXAS went through any number of problems with their primer equipped fuel tanks? I really hope that one of two things happen here:

1. They figure it out quick...NO PRIMER. Fuel tanks do not need any extra moving parts to create areas for air leaks. Anyone, with a Savage, want to chime in and let me know if that primer is any better than its predecessors on other manufacturers' tanks?

2. They improve upon the primer design so that it is no longer a potential source for an air leak in the fuel system. From what I can see, it doesn't look like it is going to take much to break that thing. I predict a large number of people either doing away with the tank for an aftermarket tank or those people making mods to this one that removes the primer from the picture.

Any thoughts?
 
In my opinion that entire fuel tank set up was a complete brain fart! At least New Era has come out with a guard for it due to it hanging precariously out in the open. I agree with you about the front side feed was also a stupid idea, I see lots of opportunities for leaning the engine and poor running once the tank gets low, baffles or no baffles. And to put a primer on a tank that is already waiting to be smashed from the side of the truck, well lets just say HPI did NOT do their homework as far as the fuel tank design and setup.
 
While I agree the primer can be a bad idea, and I too was let down after seeing that - i have yet to have any kind of problems thus far. Though I would be interested in a non primer tank.

As far as the gas tank hanging out in the open as NCNitro stated. That I do have to disagree with. Only about half the tank is actually out of the chassis, along with that its tucked very closely to the rear shock tower giving it a bit of protection. The placing alone and how much is actually sticking out from the chassis would take one heck of a hit to even reach the tank.



-WoodiE
 
I would have to think the reason the tank is haning out exposed where it is, would simply be so that it is in the same place as the T-maxx tank when you install a body. Am I incorrect in this thought? X
 
The bodies dont match up that close on the precuts. Only in regards to the head and tank though. The rest is fine.

I havent had any problems with either the tank or the primer yet. Undoubtedly though there will have to be a problem with the primer. Id say its about the same odds as cracking a tank though. Which is OK in its placement, but not protected as well as it should be. I'm also happy to see a tank guard out and am sure others will make them also. can't wait to see.

You can still prime your mill my keeping the nipple covered on the pipe. See if that helps. Once you see the fuel hit the carb, you will want to pull the cord 4 x more. With the carb slightly open. This will get everything lubed up and read to run. Then let your glo ignitor sit for a 3-4 seconds and give it a pull. Should fire up in under 3 and should be EASY to pull.

A weak glo ignitor can create a pullstarting nightmare. Also, make sure the copper gasket is in the right way on the glo plug. This can create a significant airleak and make starting a bear as well. It will run though. Hot.

Also, once over the glo plug and make sure its not spent. Try a different one if unsure.

Try these things and see if it helps.

I recommend a good glo ignitor though. The HotShot 2 by Hobico works well. Just leave it on the charger all night before the day you run.

-Chris
 
Originally posted by Çh®i§tiªñ
...

You can still prime your mill my keeping the nipple covered on the pipe. See if that helps. Once you see the fuel hit the carb, you will want to pull the cord 4 x more. With the carb slightly open. This will get everything lubed up and read to run. Then let your glo ignitor sit for a 3-4 seconds and give it a pull. Should fire up in under 3 and should be EASY to pull.

A weak glo ignitor can create a pullstarting nightmare. Also, make sure the copper gasket is in the right way on the glo plug. This can create a significant airleak and make starting a bear as well. It will run though. Hot.

Also, once over the glo plug and make sure its not spent. Try a different one if unsure.

Try these things and see if it helps.

I recommend a good glo ignitor though. The HotShot 2 by Hobico works well. Just leave it on the charger all night before the day you run.

-Chris

I am glad that you decided to join this thread, but I am unsure as to where you found the problem or the need to help solve one. This thread was meant to be a discussion on what I see as a design flaw (perhaps the only one at the moment) in the Savage.

I am sure the rest of the members who look in on this thread will appreciate the information as it may prove useful to them if they are having a problem, but I didn't see anyone in here asking for help :sneaky:

Thanks for the info...I'll file it under the section of my knowledge as poop I already know.
 
Originally posted by SkyMaxx
So this tank has a front side bottom feed and a primer buttom? Did HPI not do their homework?

Second, was HPI not watching while TRAXXAS went through any number of problems with their primer equipped fuel tanks?

Anyone, with a Savage, want to chime in and let me know if that primer is any better than its predecessors on other manufacturers' tanks?

Any thoughts?

I guess I only read the 'Any thoughts?' part.
 
No problem...just poking some fun your way. :D
 
Oh no...it's spreading. First Pirata (Captain Obvious) and now you...must be something in the Army that brings it out...

Anyways...back to the discussion. Any other takers?
 
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