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Robie6

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my first porting job on my XTM-24.7, theres more in the members gallery
 

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dunno!!! after getting it all back together this AM & checking the crank end play noticed the front bearing was moving in the case!, always had a problem with a mess behind the flywheel, replaced the bearing once, never thought to see if it was moving in the case!!! hasen't spun yet but always felt the fit was a little lose for me. Asked Craig K this AM about it, no reply, guess he's busy, i'm working on it now, my next door neighbors have 2 Savage-.21 trucks brought em over today, look like 1/10 scale next to my ThunderQuake, to bad i'm down they were running them around & i have no doubt my T.Q. 24.7 will smoke there a*s!! they spent most of the time running after them getting un-stuck cause they have no reverse, T.Q. does-lol, my opiniun the T.Q. is way better built, but "there running & i'm not" they seem like nice "little" bashers though, pardon please, i'm not putting anyones ride or vendor down, thats not right, but when i run em over-thats gonna be fun, i'll post ya tomorrow on mine, gonna stay up all night & figure this thing out:coffee:
 
I dunno either, but the TQ is a Duratrash.
I'm not bashing anyones ride either but facts are facts.
HPI Savage - King of Monster Trucks :whack:
 
hey tell me how it runs because i have the xtm 24.7 and was thinking of porting mine too but since u have done it already i want too see how urs runs.

bryan
 
larry

ok Larry, as i said i dont put anybodies ride down no mater what it is cause its not my place to judge someones r/c car or truck, but we all have started somewhere, learning, building, asking, a person has the right to his or her opinion as you showed your feelings of a DuraTrax r/c, you also showed your ignorance & your obviously personalty as a dweeb & moron, for making a statement like that before even seeing my T.Q. Its guys like you who "loose" there truck to others as myself who just keep "there trap shut & there ears open" I watch, I learn, I win, So far i have beaten 2 savage-.21 & a T-maxx, not that there bad trucks or not fast, but there owners mouth was faster. So i make you this offer even though i haven't seen your next to God's r/c, i'll go 1/2 on the air fair & put you up with me, even feed ya unless you have your own feeble opinion about California food, & we'll go across the street in the dirt wheres theres plenty of jumps, straight-outs, dunes, anything you want & i'll run you 4 out of 7 (most of the morning) for "pinks"!! you break-you lose, you snivel about the desert heat-you lose, you come up with some foolish excuses-you lose, i'll even sell you back your r/c so you'll be able to get home whatever world that is, goodnight Larry

seems to run great! "supermaxx97" i'm still playing a little with the lsnv, seems to want to idle bout 1/4 turn out more than before, my hsnv is out 3-3/4 with a good smoke trail, temps around 240F, & a top-end i wasn't expecting, the truck runs out of 2nd gear before the engine runs out of rpm's, put it on a blacktop street next door about 1000 feet long, after running 1 tank of fuel as sort of a break in, nailed it & it bottomed out the shocks, & they stayed bottomed till it shifted in 2nd at about 100 feet down the road & just kept getting faster n faster for about 400 feet & i knew i was running out of 2nd gear about 60 i figure, i have brakes that'll stop hard enough to flipp it over & at first thought they failed, but they didn't, took me 40 feet to get that 12-lb guy slowed down to a stop. Engine-wise it sounds higher piched top end, believe i've got some extra rpm's here. My first port job & to be honest with ya i was just glad it started & didn't grenade itself first time started, i'm going to have to build-buy some sort of test equipment for bhp & rpm scale, kinda shooting in the dark just hoggin out something, hopefully right, then just running it to see what happens. I also opened up the carb bore maybe 1 mm, while flowing the venture & added a slight venture flow to the bottom port of the carb. I didn't do any case work, i figure i can buy another sleeve-piston if i really screw it up, & i haven't read up on case tuning but know theres things that can be done there, so all in all guess it worked out fine, later :banana:
 
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alright so it goes a heck of alot better now? i was going to ask if u might be able to do a port job on my motor?

bryan
 
Re: larry

Originally posted by Robie6
i'm going to have to build-buy some sort of test equipment for bhp & rpm scale, kinda shooting in the dark

i think they call that a "dyno" on normal engines.

glad to hear your engine runs. you have more balls than i do. you should get a radar gun too. ;)
 
Boy, what a hot head.... For someone who keeps there mouth shut you sure had a lot to say. Exscuse me..but I did say that I was not bashing anyones ride so that should have been a clue that I was only kidding. Own what you like, otherwise there would only need to be one manufacturer.
I appoigize if you that sensitive.
 
supermaxx97= it would be nice to do porting for others & get into that game but remember its my first job & alot of guess work at that, i'd have to be alot better & know what i'm doing before i go hacking at someons engine, at least with what i want to do i would be able to send you back a print out of what i did & what you gained, can't do that now. What i did is read some articles here in these forums on porting, printed out one, i also went to www.nitrorc.com & found some forums & pictures on a Novarossi (something close to the size of my 24.7) & went off the pictures!! talk about in the dark! the crank already had the cuts, all i did was polish it & knife edge the window. All ya need is a Dremal adj. speed-they cost more but you can take your moms foot pedal from her sewing machine & make anything variable speed:bling: a couple pointed cutting stones, a few different buffing tips, some "mothers mag-wheel polish & go for it, when polishing-the metal gonna get hot!! so use a glove or rag. Porting is directing the flow & flowing the path, rounding all edges, curves, polishing so it has a slicker path to follow. Even your toilet has a venturi (please dont try to port your toilet, you'll get a huge butt hicky) idea being forcing a given flow through a even smaller hole increasing its speed & so on. I didn't mess with the exh. port cause i didn't know what to do, remember these ports have to do with the timing of the engine, so by not doing the exh. port i may have created a better intake flow with nowhere for it to go, like a plug, working on that to. I did read where you want the cuts in the intake ports to flow away from the exh. port, thats why there on an angle, reading more on that to. Take your engine apart & study why it does what it does & how & when, you'll see the flow from intake to exh. & round up, clean up, flow everything in the path expeirment, open things a little at a time, its easy. I got mine so shiny i didn't want to put it back together-lol, let me know how its going we may both learn something & thank you for offering the chance to work on yours, later:banana:
 
alright then, i will try to do it myself and do what u did and guess a little bit. thank you for your help. o yea one more thing what are your hsn and lsn set at on your 24.7? mine is running worth crap. i have tried the stock settings but then dont work good.

bryan
 
to "RobH"

yea your right, a little dyno & test stand would be wild, something you can hook to a PC for read & print outs. I was taught how to use a "flow bench" on Harley heads awhile back but forgot some things but i could build a smaller version for r/c engines, theroy is the same, i bet a dyno cost bucks, i need something that'll give me a torq & hp graph from o-rpm to whatever, torq mostly falls off then hp takes over, be neat to see that on paper-huh, think i'll clean out the garage & build me something. A rader gun is trick to find your top speed but i think thats it, i'll need someone to build me a program for the PC so all the mods can be fed in & the specs for just about every stock r/c engine out there-geez!! maybe start off with a few & be able to add as we go along, mmmmmmm-interesting thought, now you got my gears turning:dance:

the book settings on my 24.7 didn't work either, i am now at 9-1/2 turns out lsnv & 3-1/2 on the hsnv, i tried for a week to get them to factory settings, no luck, biggest prob. was getting it started & stay running!! I found when the lsnv was out 9-1/2 it started quick, leave it there & adj. the high side. After warming it up (driving around-dont let it sit still) i used the hsnv as a thermostat, adjusting it in from 3-1/2 till the engine started getting around 280-290-F then turning it out 1/4 at a time ( yea i know thats alot-read on) till the temps came down around 220-240-F then fine tuning the hsnv a few ckicks at a time either way till it has a good smoke trail & doesn't peter out top end, then i went back to the lsnv & slowly turned it in till the engine gained speed then wanted to die (sometimes it did) then backed out till it got that sweet-spot again & backed it out 3 or 4 clicks past it so it'll be a little rich, now your real close to being right-on, if it starts & runs good remember your settings so when you play with them again you'll know how to get back. If it wont start open the lsnv a little at a time till it does & stays running, once it starts & runs, the rest is easy, I have a problem with my lsnv wanting to back out after running for awhile, theres a lip on the top side of the needle above the o-ring but none below the o-ring just threads, the book says to turn the lsnv (with the slide open) till it bottoms out then back out but if i do that the o-ring goes into the threads tearing it up, if i stop turning it in when i feel the o-ring hit the threads i still have about 3-turns till it bottoms out, i've looked at some other needles high & low & they all have the 2 lips with the o-ring in the center, even the 24.7 hsn & idle neddle have 2 lips, plus its a pain in the yazoo to tune the lsnv where it is plus the slide has to be open when you adjust it, real pain with the engine running, if you not carefull you'll kill the engine unless ya hold the linkage with 1 hand & adj with the other, needs to be on the other side, i'm looking into trashing the carb & looking into an OS or maybe a Perry-carb, my Torq-21 has a nice carb thats actually bigger inside than the 24.7 carb but the outside dia is smaller so its loose in the hole, crap, thats a nice carb, easy to adj., & i ported it, let me know how it goes maxx97:w00t:
 
to "LarryA"

wrong again dude, i'm not a hot head less my gf's here for the night, just when i have an investment in something plus add-ons (except my next door neighbor who did some work for some dealer & he gave them 2 new savage-.21's complete, broke in, fuel, glow starter, radio, with custom bodies, the dealer was showing off 8 of them at the show) & when i had the chance to compare my ThunderQuake to there's side by side the T.Q. was just more heavy duty built with better quality stuff, like the bigger aluminum shocks (not plastic like the savage) with "7" adjustments holes not including the spring adj. & 3mm aluminum shock towers, 3mm upper & lower chassis plates, adj. ball joints, adj. toe in & out, adj caster/camber, bigger wheels & tires, on & on & there both the same price!!!, for you to blurt out T.Q. is trash, then say your just kidding? maybe where your at but in B-More city where i'm from, no, no, no, no, so if your just "kidding" no need to be sorry, its cool, offers still open have fun,:mex:
 
hey i got one more question do u run a different head on the 24.7? they are really small for that engine and i was finding that it gets a little hotter than i like so i was going to get a different one for it. like the nova racing head.

bryan
 
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