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Pinch me!!

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6victor6

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Kidding!...

Anyone have any experience with pinched sleeves? Sounds like a good idea (and might help solve my VZB woes).. I've been told it works but haven't heard from anyone who's had it done.
 
Not quite sure what he means by "pinched sleeves" but i think he means after an engine has been run down, and the sleeve is ready for a replacement, you can take it to someone who can "fit" the sleeve and piston back tighter almost like new. I've only read a few articles and threads about this, so i'm not sure if thats what he means by pinching the sleeve.
 
yeah, i'm not quite sure how its done, but they squeeze the sleeve tighter for a tighter seal. I'm not sure if they actually pinch it or what, but that thats the only stuff i heard about sleeve pintching...
 
If you want your sleeve pinched, this is the only guy I would trust to do it. His name is JB, and he goes by osrocket on ebay and on the message boards. ALOT of people use him, and alot of people like his work. Click the link and look at his feedback.

osrocket
 
6victor6, I know that you only have 2 gallons on your RZ so this might not be a big deal to you. Anyone else reading this should know that you will get your compression back from a "pinch", but you might want to replace your conrod, wrist pin and anything else that you would normally replace for a rebuild.

If you put 4 gallons on an engine and you just pinch the P/S, the conrod may give you trouble before long. It's the most heavily abused part in the engine. RB wants people to change their conrods every gallon. That advice is a little overboard, but the logic behind it is sound.

-RobH
 
Thanks for the replies... Sorry if I confused a few folks using the pinching term.. Thats what I've heard it refered to..
I too have heard of osrocket.. Sounds like thats the man to go to..

RB suggest a conrod replacement after every gallon? ouch..
 
So what is the process of "pinching" the sleeve? What do they do to regain the compression? All the one site said was "retool".
 
Good point Rob that I forgot to mention. If you do have you p/s pinched, you really should replace the conrod.

As for the RB engines, some people say you should replace the conrod after break-in. I think this was more of a concern before they came out with their new rod on the WS7.
 
Our Resize Process

1) We inspect all work before executing on repairs.

2) We prep our work by thoroughly cleaning sleeve liner surface, along with cleaning Piston, prior to resizing sleeve. If found necessary, we also polish out the "minimal" sleeve liner scratches, and remove piston burring.

3) Our tooling very accurately and very mildly reforms sleeve diameter at predetermined Piston travel @ TDC , and again just above porting windows. We double pinch "two" critical areas. The result is a new designed fit including tapper thru to Pinchpoint.

4) We always stress relieve. It is not necessary, but is a benefit to the quality service you will receive.

5) We meticulously inspect your resized Piston & Sleeve set before packaging and return shipping.

*Our professional rule of thumb is: The Long Way Is The Best Way*
 
Originally posted by FlyinRazorback
As for the RB engines, some people say you should replace the conrod after break-in. I think this was more of a concern before they came out with their new rod on the WS7.
Click to expand...

Are you sure? I know the S7 doesn't have the same conrod as the WS7 and people suggest that you upgrade it after the 5 liters or whatever. Other threads, however, suggest that you do it for ALL of the RB engines:

http://rbproducts.com/rbww/ubb/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=1;t=000762#000005

Originally posted by RB Products - USA
If you want to be safe, RB Products recommends that you change the conrod every 5-6 liters of fuel run through the engine...

It is worth checking this regularly for wear (both on the crankpin and the big end of the conrod), and changing it when wear becomes too much...
Click to expand...

If this truely is their advice for all RB engines, I think replacing it every gallon is a little silly.... ok.... 1.32086026 gallons. My conversion was a little off so maybe a gallon and a half?

Anyway, I'd gladly retrack my statement, if I'm wrong.

-Rob

PS I didn't mean to crap on your thread. It sounds like it's a good thing to do if the right people do it. The P/S makes up the majority of the rebuild cost and could save you a lot of green. That OS engine may just screw it up again in a gallon or two thuogh. They really should give you a new P/S anyway.

-Rob
 
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Didn't say you were wrong Rob, I just said that some people say that. With my personal experience with the C5 I would say that it is unnecesary. I just got a S7, so I'll let you know what the rod looks like at the gallon mark. My brothers had 3 RB's and didn't have any prob's with the rods either.
 
Here's The Number To Ctek Tool. The Company That Makes The Sizemaster Sleeve Resizer's. This Will Be The Most Valuable Tool In Your Box. You Can Resize Your Sleeve In A Matter Of Min. And It Is 100 Percent Gaurenteed.

Ctek Tool
513-742-0423
 
I have used pinched sleeves more than once and I have to say that it works. I have had no probs with using the refurbished p/s. In fact I believe my Mugen mill had more compression after the pinch than did when new. I also have to say that one p/s set i had pinched had about 2 gal. on it and within a few runs the crankpin bushing got sloppy on the conn. rod. This led me to believe that replaceing the connecting rod is a safe bet. Inspect it carefully before you go for the pinch job w/o replaceing the rod.

my .02

Saggy
 

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