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Picco .26Max Break in.

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M

Monteman

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  1. Bashing
So the supplied book isn't very detailed.
"our engines require a running in of about 10-20 minutes using moderate RPM"

Any tips and or pointers for breaking these guys in?
I head someone say start it and let it idle trough a tank, and then you're good. Last thing i need to do is screw this engine up right out of the gate, i had a constantly air leaking 3.3 last summer that drove me crazy. Hoping this upgrade will solve my problems with that.

Info is much appreciated guys, thank you :)
 
They do reccomend breaking in the conrod bushing for the first few minutes but I'm not sure how. I guess I would just use a hair dryer or something to get it warm first, then run it a couple minutes on a hard smooth surface. Repeat this about 10-15 times, 'Heat cycles' are a great way to start. If you think it's too rich don't be afraid to lean the hsn a wee bit. It's probably going to be a tad rich out of the box. Just make sure it hits 200-220 degrees every time. Once that's done you can do something similar to the traxxas method for the next 5-6 tanks. After that you can start running it like you want just don't lean it out yet. Piccos don't REALLY break in 'til about the 1 gallon mark, so be patient. Remember to set the piston at bottom every time you shut it down so the sleeve doesn't clamp down on the piston.

Also keep your eye on things, a new engine can have air leaks. I would recommend sealing it first, even though I only seal engines that don't tune right. The choice is yours.:D
 
I used the traxxas method with mine, worked great. Hehe, wait till you get about a gallon through that thing and the pinch loosens up a little, whole new animal especially with a good 053 side pipe.
 
Pre-heating is a must with any quality nitro engine. The tolerances are real tight. You may even need to crack the plug loose to relieve some stress on the rod and owb. Just tighten it up as soon as the engine starts.
 
Monte -
There’s almost as many theories as to what is the proper break-in method as there are stars in the sky; but no creditable one will suggest that the engine is good to go after idling one tank.
During that idling session the engine is running rich, cold and at a constant RPM - nothing like how it runs under load.

Personally I follow a progressive multi-tank heat cycle method using a temp gun which starts out with a timed idle gradually leaning it until it reaches stable (but still cool) temp - then shut it down and let it cool down.
During cool down make sure your piston not stuck at TDC - which is a good practice to generally follow but very important during break-in.

I then put it on the road running partial (1/3 - 1/2) tanks - at first just putter around - 1/2 throttle 1 second or so - trying to reach that runs temp and see if it holds - then shut it down - let it cool - repeat.
If it’s running hotter than you want - richen it or shut it down. If it’s too cool, lean it.

As the engine gets broken in - as more fuel is run through it - you'll need to lean the HSN (very small changes usually 1/16th - 1/8th turns) to reach that runs desired temp.
Each run I gradually increase the throttle and/or temp until it's running at operating temperature and I think it's ready for action - somewhere around 5 tanks.

Good engines will continue to break-in for a number of tanks and you’ll notice when your engine is prime time.
 

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