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overheating all the time

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yea but like i said on my first post no matter how much i richen it it still stalls.when i run it there is a trail of blue smoke.I've evn richened it to where it is spitting out raw fuel.
 
Is it possible your linkage is not setup right?

Watch the linkage with the engine off, but the tx and the truck power turned on.

When you hit the brake, does the carbeurator close at all?

Check this. look at the carb with the TX in hand. Hit the brakes. Does the carb linkage move at all? When you go from idle to brake, the carb shouldn't move at all.

I had my trucks running sweet, but the second i hit the brakes, they would die and coast to a stop. Rather than using the idle screw, I had been using the tx trim. So whenever I hit the brakes, the carb would close tight, killing the motor. It was a bugger to figure out and very frusterating.

I had checked the carb linkage to make sure it went WOT. I had checked to make sure the brakes were working.

I overlooked the fact that the brakes could also push the carb closed that was one part of the linkage travel I didn't check.
good luck
 
nope,nothing wrong with the linkage.like forlike the first two mins i will break and nothing will happen it will stay on.but like 2mins later once i break it will turn off.
 
The issue of the timing comes back to haunt this thread. Perhaps you have a cracked fuel tank. As the fuel gets low, it uncovers the crack and allows an air leak. This would cause the problems you have mentioned.
 
How exactly did you check the tank?

To check for air leaks in your fuel system do the following:
1. Empty all fuel from the tank and fuel lines.
2. Remove the tank, pressure line, and fuel feed line from the RC.
3. Keep all fuel lines and filters in place as they would be on the RC and bring the assembly to your kitchen sink.
4. Fill the sink with water to a depth that you can submerge the entire assembly in.
5. Tape the fuel tank lid down. Plug the fuel feed line with one finger or crimp it and clip it with a clother pin.
6. Put the tank and fuel feed line and as much of the pressure line into the sink and submerge it. Then blow into the pressure line.
7. Look for bubbles coming from anyhwere they shouldn't.

If no bubbles, no leak. Then you need to search the engine for leaks. Different procedure there. No water involved as engines do not like moisture that isn't fuel or oil related.

Here you just want to look for any bad gaskets or poorly tightened fittings. This will require some disassembly of the engine. Why? To get at the gaskets. I can't tell you exactly what to take apart without knowing which engine, but rest assured the more you look for the broken seal...the better off you will be.

If there is no air leak, then you are looking at something either atmospheric or tuning related. The only other possibility that I can think of (and I have listed quite an extensive list in this thread) would be a cracked carb or cracked engine casing.
 
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