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Oncar Voltage Display

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92 Teg-B18A

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I'm wondering if anyone knows of an oncar voltage display or how to make one? Just somethin' I want to add when I have my radio tray apart when I put a failsafe in.
 
Hobbico makes a little think called voltwatch but it is for 4.8 volts usage. It's like $11 on tower.
 
it'll work on 6v. been there, done that on my 4-tec running 4AA alks. It just takes longer to come down on the scale.
 
Lol, On tower it has these big warning:
"This ONLY works with 4.8 volt receiver packs (NOT 6.0 volts)!"
and
"This is for 4.8V NiCd packs only! NO NiMH!"

I am out on both, I'll be running some NiMH hump packs for rc air in my buggy. Yes, my buggy can fly :D I got 3 6v 1000 mAh packs off Ebay from the user Batteryspace.com. It was $20 for those 3 packs which is alot better deal them one 6v 1100 mAh for $30 off tower.
 
They are Hump packs, (5) 2/3 AA in heat shrink. They are used for the Rx.

pekm4031.jpg
 
right now I'm just using 4 AA's for my receiver. So that volywatch thing won't work will it?
Does anyone know how to make one? I could swore I saw something like this on someones truck. Can't remember if it was on here though.
 
Originally posted by SilentGTboy
They are Hump packs, (5) 2/3 AA in heat shrink. They are used for the Rx.

pekm4031.jpg
But still 1200 seems like a little under power regardless that there are five of the batteries in the pack. It's kinda like putting 2, 1/2 hp engines in a savage and saying that it's so much better because there are 2 engines, which hp is still less than a single stock savage engine.
 
Granted EP, but, I used to run Energiser NiMH rechargables in the stock holder. At 1.2v each, that's 4.8 total. 4AA alks is 1.5 each, for 6v total. The NiMH cells were like 1800 mAh and the humps are 1000-1200 or so. I run hump in mine, and the extra volts (over the rechargeable AA 4 cell pack) is always welcome even though the humps don't have as much capacity.
 
Why do you say that a 1100 or 1200 is not enough? What do you think we used when the best you could get was only about 600? I use a 6V 5 cell pack on my Savage that isn't a real high capacity and 1000 4 cell / 600 4 cell on my two stadium trucks. Sure the run time isn't the best but they work just fine.
 
I really noticed a differance when I put a dead dynamite 1000 mAh pack on my HPI Nitro RS4 3 which still uses stock servos. It was alot quicker and had more power. I have a question, How long should 4 AA's with some XR2 stock servos last?? My batteries lasted 4 tanks before I lost contact with the car and it fly into a curb at full speed busting the gas tank and splitting my battery case in half.
 
To my knowledge, running 6v makes the servos quicker and have more torque. Going from 4AA dry cells to a 5 cell hump won't make it change noticably. I did notice a big improvement in steering response when I changed from 4AA rechargeables to the 5 cell, but sacrificed 700 mAh worth of runtime. I just hate buying AA batteries.

As for how long the different packs last, I don't know since I tend to change and recharge packs after running. But generally a pack will last a day at the track for me. And I always carry a hot spare, and the drycell pack, and AA batteries....... Bunny cells have always been good to me, GT. Bargain cells will not go the distance.
 
You may not notice but from what I understand the servos arre actually made to run on 6V and not 4.8V. I read this someplace on a reputable site and it may have even been a manufacturer of radio equipment. I can't remember where.
 
most servo spec will show speed and torque for both 4.8 and 6v. Obvious conclusion: they're designed to handle 6v. It would be stupid for Hobbyco to make an onboard voltmeter that couldn't handle 6v. It's just the calibration of the meter and the range of the LED readout.
 
www.batteryspace.com is where my packs are coming from, they should be here the 9th. I know a couple people who also run the air packs and they aren't having proplems. BTW, the 4 AA batteries that lasted 4 tanks were Duracell, Brand new outta the pack $6 Duracell batteries. :angry: Long Lasting power you can trust, my ass!
 
SilentGTboy: You can solve the runaway issue you had by installing a $35 Vemon Failsafe. They are very small, easy to install and setup and worth the money. A good insurance policy. I have two of them. They monitor the voltage and transmiiter signal if the signal is lost or the voltage goes below 4.8V the failsafe activates and locks up my brakes. Quick test was to be running at about 1/2 throttle, in the open, and turn off the transmitter. Bingo! On go the brakes!
 
Has anyone heard of Expert Electronics battery voltage indicator? They make it in 4.8v or 6.0v.
I was kinda wanting something that had a lcd display or somethin' like that if possible.
 
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Yeah, I'll be 16 in 5 days and I'll be getting some money to pick up a failsafe. How is the Vemon Systems check any different then their failsafe? I'd like to pick up some carbon fiber for my storm and possible even get my RS4 3 up to racing level, I've been torturing that car since it's died. I gave it 4 wheel steering :naughty:. There is so many things I'd like to get for it. Ti turnbuckles, carbon upperdeck, or Ti, Wolfpack 2-speed, a Fantom .12, carbon shock towers. My Advan Tires are looking more like slicks and I broke 2 R5 chrome rims already practicing highspeed hairpin turns with my .15cv-rx.
 
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