OK so I am redoing my SAVAGE?

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griff7373

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I recently bought the 5.9 TVPs and am slowly working on a sem-stock build I have a Savage SS .25 with a 4.6 engine. I am slowly buying pieces to build a new truck with as I have plenty of spare for my old .25 SS I hope to end up with 2 savages one being a 5.9 and the other a ss .25 with some .5 extended TVP purchased from Twisted Toys years ago. My actual question is I bought the 5.9 arms http://www.ebay.com/itm/HPI-SAVAGE-...9723&rk=3&rkt=4&sd=141304283735#ht_948wt_1001
Do they make a set of CVds for the extended arms or should I just go with the basic dogbones and drive cups?

Also am I correct in assuming the drive shafts for the older savages will not fit the 5.9 arms?
 
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BUMP BUMP some help here would be greatly appreciated
 
I'm not sure that they will fit or not, but what i do know is it would be easier to just buy some offset rims, it would have less plastic to break on the a-arms if you dont extend them. this is what i did when i extended my X4.6, it worked out perfect for me!
 
The a-arms that you bought are the same length as Savage X arms, the difference is that there are more reinforcments, and gussets molded into the savage XL arms/or newer a-arms.

Yes they will fit the bulkheads, but newer, or XL bulkheads are also designed stronger! And you are correct, older dogbones won't fit, unless your using standard stub-axles, which won't allow you to make it wider, without an offset rim.

The way that HPI managed to make the XL wider is wheel hub spacers, which utilize longer stub-axles, with a slightly larger reciever cup. XL stub-axles have 11mm inner diameter reciver cups, that need 11mm dogbones to match, where as Xs have/or had 9mm inner diameter reciver cups the last time I checked.

If you intend on beating the pants off of that savage, your better off just sticking with dogbones, there are too many parts in CVDs that can fall out/work themselves loose....unless you intend on carrying around a few sets of CVD rebuilding kits.

CVDs deliver more power from the drivetrain to the wheels, but have more moving parts that can go missing.....screw shafts, pins ect. Slightly more expensive too.

Dogbones deliver slightly less power but are easier to find if they manage to pop out....especially if you paint them a bright colour before installation. Very cost effective.

I agree with bobaloohoo, it would be easier to get a set of rims with an offset, rather than use stub-axle spacers, there will be less strain on you wheel bearings, which will give you less down time further down the road.

If I've missed anything there is a Sticky thread about savage parts compatibility at the top of the index for RCNTs savage threads page.
 
great thanks for the help I will grab some of the regular dogbones for it.
 
since you are going that route, you may as well make it the XL width with the stronger XL driveline. you need the XL differential cups or a set of the XL differentials, the 4 shafts that go to axles, and the axles. if you want to stay standard width, get the flux axles.
BE VERY CAUTIOUS when buying drivetrain parts on ebay. the diffcups,shafts,and axles are different between the XL/Flux(balls and cups are 11mm) and the 4.6 savage(balls and cups are 9mm) if the say its for the whole line of trucks, look for someone else to buy from
 
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