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nitrohuffer

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I have an RC10gt. At my lhs we have a dirt track that I frequent. So far I broke an upper shock cap, lower shock mount, front arm, numerous ball ends, lost countless little itty bitty nuts etc. even loctite on nuts.
Is there any way to keep this sucker intact? All I do is light bashing around the house but I mainly stay on the track. any suggestions>?
thanks fellas
Ryan
 
When it came to my RC10GT I just went al out and replaced every component on the front and back with titanium. The chasis is as well, with some carbon stuff thrown in. Everyone wass telling me that metal is not as forgiving as plastic, So I replaced it all. Now the impact has nowhere to go (weakest part? there isn't one.)

But, as you know, titanium is expensive. I put all my work, time and money into one car, and I stick with it. It is my shelf queen and my play hogg. For light bashing I would sugest lock-tite on all the screws attached to the chassis. The plastic stock stuff is good for just bashing it around your yard, but IMO not made for jumps and such. Aluminum arms and the little things at the front to hold the short pole between the body post thingie and the chassis (Ya, I don't know wtf it is called, so i improvise.)And last but not leasst some good material bumpers, I would'nt recomend aluminum, but maybe Kevlar. Hope this helps ya out bro.
 
I think RPM makes a wide bumper for the GT....anything RPM makes is as bombproof as you need...if you break those then pretty much any thing you had would've broken.....
 
from what youve written you havent broken much.. i could do that in one jump lol..

as far as the shock parts breaking.. be sure to set the suspension to bottom out befor the shocks do so the chassis takes the blow instead of the shock ends or towers.

on the arms i would go rpm, as well as that bumper plaid spoke of.. hit up .21rc10gt hes got one on his maby he can tell you where to get one..

but if it is to breakable then use it just for racing, and go get a savage to bash.. it will take a beating and beg for more..
 
beason said:
from what youve written you havent broken much.. i could do that in one jump lol..

as far as the shock parts breaking.. be sure to set the suspension to bottom out befor the shocks do so the chassis takes the blow instead of the shock ends or towers.

on the arms i would go rpm, as well as that bumper plaid spoke of.. hit up .21rc10gt hes got one on his maby he can tell you where to get one..

but if it is to breakable then use it just for racing, and go get a savage to bash.. it will take a beating and beg for more..
Click to expand...

Exactly!

The RC10GT is the tougher of the Sts, but they aren't all that strong for bashing. Since they're so lightweight, they belong on the track.
 
Tweak said:
When it came to my RC10GT I just went al out and replaced every component on the front and back with titanium.
Click to expand...

I highly doubt that you replaced everything with titanium... I think you mean aluminum... There are very few parts out there that are made of titanium, because of expense (you could pay more than $120 for 4 a-arms for a GT, if they were made), and titanium is only strong in some situations.

Anyway, I would go with RPM stuff all around. RPM rear bulkhead, front and rear arms, definitly the front bumper, rpm ball ends (heavy duty), rear bearing carriers, and rpm spring cups. Get some aluminum shock caps (i have never had a problem with those, and they are way more durable than the plastic ones). If you have the money, get a Lunsford titanium hingepin/turnbuckle kit. Also try some MIP cvds. Get some aluminum shock mounts (the ones on the a-arms) and some aluminum or titanium shock towers ( i use the titanium ones from HCR, and they are awesome! Aluminum does work, but some bend more than others. Try to get one that is thick if you go aluminum). I can go on and on about all of these things... Any one of the hop ups i listed can give you more durability and that turns into more track or bash time... Who said r/c was cheap!? :rolleyes:
 
Even though i believe you, i highly doubt that GPM would make such expensive parts... Their quality isnt that great... everything they make is cast moulded, not machined. I wrote them an email just for the hell of it. i want to see the prices. lol
 
The arms and tranny box were the most expensive. As for the rest it was all just small stuff here and there. But like I said, I wouldn't sugest doing this to your car (nitrohuffer) Because it is a big, expensive product. It makes the entire rig a lot heavier and strains the engine. All the other parts listed above really work great, and the site I gave has a lot of great aluminum parts. I guess I am just biased in thinking that metal is beter than plastic, although the nylon parts clearly have thier fine points. I just wanted to a niceer looking rig to run around the house, No tracks near me, therefore no jumping.
 
I run aluminum/titanium where ever i can't get a good RPM product. I have the aluminum tranny case... I doubt they would make a titanium one, just because there is no benifit there in making it titanium... I really want to see the price list... out of curiosity (sp?), how much did the tranny case cost ya?
 
Just got an Email back from asiatees.com. They said they do not, and have never, carried any titanium parts for the rc10gt. They said many people get titanium and aluminum mixed up, so that is the reason of confusion... According to them, and my research, they only carry GPM parts, and GPM doesn't make anything in titanium for the RC10GT. I thought i would post this to clear anything up. Not trying to bust your balls, just reporting what they told me.
 

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