Ofna throttle linkage upgrade

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bobaloohoo

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For those of you who havent done this upgrade, ill tell you i never realized how much of a piece of sh*t the regular savage linkage is unil i upgraded to this linkage upgrade. the throttle and break response is night and day now, a world of difference, and it only cost me 15 bucks! i bought all the pieces seperate to get the colors i wanted, so you could get it even cheaper. id give it 5/5
 

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Just did this on my savage. can u show me where you attached throttle return spring? not entirely happy with whete I have mine
 
the factory linkage is junk ... really wish the Savage community would speak up as a whole and force HPI to fix it..........
 
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Just did this on my savage. can u show me where you attached throttle return spring? not entirely happy with whete I have mine

i have mine attached to the horn where the linkage is attached to going past the carb opening and attached right on the bottom of the HSN screw tubing
 
While I've not had any problems with mine, my truck stops fine and the carb opens smoothly etc. And I am somewhat OCD about link setups as I have seen how it affects tune as well as how a 90/.15 servo will perform better with a proper setup than a 200/.08 servo with a poor setupI

With that I know its a matter of time before that c-spring wears, I have not looked at this mod in detail...but am considering just re-engineering it completely. I'd really like to set brake bias. Who knows---I'm not that creative with mods but my main concern is when I get my new engine (Neil I'm placing my order this week) I don't want to chance anything going wrong. I'm also considering going HV with both steering and throttle

I'm more focused right now on the mid-tank lean and the transmission upgrades to handle the new power.
 
While I've not had any problems with mine, my truck stops fine and the carb opens smoothly etc. And I am somewhat OCD about link setups as I have seen how it affects tune as well as how a 90/.15 servo will perform better with a proper setup than a 200/.08 servo with a poor setupI

With that I know its a matter of time before that c-spring wears, I have not looked at this mod in detail...but am considering just re-engineering it completely. I'd really like to set brake bias. Who knows---I'm not that creative with mods but my main concern is when I get my new engine (Neil I'm placing my order this week) I don't want to chance anything going wrong. I'm also considering going HV with both steering and throttle

I'm more focused right now on the mid-tank lean and the transmission upgrades to handle the new power.

What are you doing for mid tank lean? Thats an issue I would like to address before the .32 gets here.

I'm planning on doing this ofna throttle mod tonight.
 
While I've not had any problems with mine, my truck stops fine and the carb opens smoothly etc. And I am somewhat OCD about link setups as I have seen how it affects tune as well as how a 90/.15 servo will perform better with a proper setup than a 200/.08 servo with a poor setupI

With that I know its a matter of time before that c-spring wears, I have not looked at this mod in detail...but am considering just re-engineering it completely. I'd really like to set brake bias. Who knows---I'm not that creative with mods but my main concern is when I get my new engine (Neil I'm placing my order this week) I don't want to chance anything going wrong. I'm also considering going HV with both steering and throttle

I'm more focused right now on the mid-tank lean and the transmission upgrades to handle the new power.


hey i know you dont see any bad things now, but once you do the ofna upgrade, youll be like "damn that old linkage sucked" trust me, youll never notice until you convert, its rediculou
 
thanks man! i never realized how cheap but effective something like this could be
 
you could put a return spring from the ball where the servo rod meets the L and run it back and attach it to a small hole you drill in the rollbar bottom. i even use the stock spring
 
bifft, thats genious! I'm gonna try it later on

---------- Post added at 7:48 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:47 AM ----------

did you attach the spring to the forward most bar or the rear one?
 
I ran mine back to roll bar mount screw, but its fouling on the brake lever a little. not causing any dramas but I dont like it. will try running it to the other side, on hsn or something.
 
When possible I find it best to attach the throttle return spring to the slide valve, not the linkage.

On the savage I replace the 3mm set screw that holds the throttle arm on the slide valve with a 3mm cap head screw that’s long enough to have a few mm of threads sticking out when tight.
Then a spring attaches to the screw and routs behind the carb to the tvp on the pipe side or wraps around the engine back to the header depending on the engine/header you’re using.
 
i attached it to the roll bar today. ill admit... it works waayyy better than the stock sitting. i love it
 
I've had quite a few run-aways for a variety of reasons. My last one was due to the carb boot getting stuck on the zip tie around the air fllter neck. My vehicle literally ran straight into a brick wall at ~40mph.

Only once did I have the type (rx reception loss) where the return spring would/should have prevented it....but it didn't.

In what scenarios should a return spring work?
 
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a return spring should never work!;P you should always break stuff so you have fun rebuilding! lol jk if only money wasn't so limited, it would be more fun
 
Ugh...I can't stand breaking things. There are times where we will go out with the intention of breaking something, but this is usually during the first parts of a rebuild or after a build. Really just to determine points of failures. After we've got that down....I fully expect the vehicle NOT to break and it pisses me off something fierce when it does. With my Savage I'm to that point now...aside from any freak accidents I've got it pretty damn durable (cause out of the box things would break---a lot). Now I'm focused on performance upgrades. A lot more fun IMO, and just as challenging (and expensive). ;-)
 
So I was somewhat on the fence about implementing this, but was talking to NitroJedi the other evening and he made a very compelling case for it (other than 'it's better'). ;-) I"m OCD about my linkage as is...and he provided a multitude of explicit benefits for this, specific for his engines...rat-a-tat-tat. ;-)

I have most of the parts laying around I believe (actuators, springs, ball-cups, rods, adjustment collars etc.) However, I'm unsure if I will keep the throttle mix or design something new. If the former does anyone know if there is a bearing-based throttle mix available?

To leverage this new linkage, I am putting on a ProTek 130s. That would be 260oz at .05 seconds. I want the engine to go 'wee-wee'. Ha! I know there are a lot of guys on here who have not heard of ProTek...but they are the real-deal.

Thanks for your help
 
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not even joking, i had a dream about finding a pro-tek 500 oz servo in one of my buggies that didnt even have a servo lol... good ol dreams can bum you out
 
That is a sign that you need to get one, man. ;-) Actually for the steering in my Savage I have a 150T (428/.08). I currently have a HiTec 7955 i it. I want to leave some room...so after this 150T would be servos of 630/.11 or 549/.07. More intrigued with the latter...speed is nothing without the torque...but imagine would see a bigger difference in .11-.07 transit time than 549-630 torque. sHave been testing different servos. Some guys like to only build, some like to drive..I like to test out different setups. I figure I'm a newbie so nothing like learning by doing ;-) Short version is the Savage required most torque and speed (BY FAR) than any other of my vehicles. Not surprising...but the gap was.


Regarding the throttle mix....looks like you kept stock, correct?
 
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