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NTC3 Carbon Kit - A Waste of $$$$

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Digital Liquid

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Ok, I've been doing some hop-up mods to my NTC3 lately and one of them was the Complete Carbon Kit (Part # 2371). I purchased it under the impression that it would help to lighten the car since you are switching out the stock plastic pieces for lighter carbon pieces.

2371_ntc3partsweb.jpg


Well here is what happened, as I am taking off a stock plastic piece I weigh it on my digital scale (accurate to 0.1g). I write the stock weight down in a book and then I take the new identical carbon piece and weigh it too before I put it on the car. Needless to say I started to get pissed off when I began to notice that the new carbon pieces were barely lighter than the stock pieces.

On a couple of pieces, the carbon piece was actually the same weight as the stock piece or even heavier than the stock piece!

For example:
---Stock Handle ( 7.6 grams ) ~~ Carbon Handle ( 8.9 grams )
---Stock Radio Tray ( 27.7 g ) ~~ Carbon Radio Tray ( 27.7 g )

Overall, by switching out all the stock pieces to carbon pieces you only lose 14.4 grams.

To give you a perspective of how small a weight that is. The HPI 26mm Chrome Mesh Wheel weighs in at (12 g) without a tire or foam on it. So if you have ever held a touring car rim in your hand, then you roughly know how much 14 grams is.

So my advice to anyone who is thinking of spending their money on this product is to NOT do it. I would definitely tell you to spend it on something else! I give their car 2 thumb up.....but give this hop-up 2 thumbs down. :boxing:

Later....
 
i do believe the reason to go to carbon fibre is the strength it has over the abs plastic ... you should get a much more solid ride and finer tuning with the carbon parts ...
 
The carbon will give you more rigidity which is important on the arms so that your settings will be more precise. The carbon radio tray and braces will reduce chassis flex, to a point. I have used the carbon kit on my NTC3 on the racing circuit and it does, to the best of my knowledge and observation, give a better ride and hold the suspension tune better.
 
Good point about the rigidness. My car is alot heavier now since I switched out chassis, and I have been focusing on the weight lately. I guess I got so involved w/ the weight aspect that I forgot about the other key feature to the carbon, which is the rigidness over the stock parts. Thanks for keeping me in check.
 
Not easier, it just takes a harder hit to break them. I broke more plastic parts before I broke the carbon peices when racing. When just bashing, it's not a problem becuase you're not really running in a pack of 10 cars on 1 track with boards and road rails.
 
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I came across this last night from Team Associated. It comments on their carbon pieces:

Graphite Myth #1
Stronger and more impact-resistant than plastic

A beginning racer frequently breaks parts left and right as the boards jump in front of his car. He observes the pros successfully navigating the track countless times without breaking anything. He makes earnest inquiries and discovers the Holy Grail of Carbon Fiber. Rushing to the store, he buys every carbon fiber part his budget allows. Just as quickly, they all break. What's going on? Aren't carbon parts supposed to be stronger? Isn’t that why the better racers never break anything?

Actually, stock plastic versions are more impact-resistant. Plastic parts are more flexible than carbon, allowing more "give" in a crash. Experienced racers prize carbon parts, not for their strength in a crash, but for their "responsiveness." This term refers to carbon's rigidity. Without the minute delay of flexing, rigid interconnected parts will respond to the driver's control immediately.

As an example, a balloon is more flexible while an egg is more rigid. What happens when you throw both against a wall? If you answered, "One breaks while the other doesn’t," get yourself a ribbon.

Pro: Rigid and more responsive than stock parts.
Con: Less impact-resistant than stock parts.
Recommendation: If you are starting out in R/C and find yourself breaking parts often, it is better to stick with the more flexible plastic versions until the boards and your car lose their attraction. When you gain finer control over the car and desire finer tuning changes, you'll better appreciate the rigidity of graphite parts--and the superior skill of terrific drivers."
 
carbon is light compared to alloy and iron. i dont think you get anything lighter then plastic.

and for the thoughnes . i think carbon is very though as long as you dont hit anything at high speed. nothing wil hold if ya speed your car against a wall with 60. if its alloy, plastic or carbon all 3 wil brake.
speed is gained in corners and thats why handling of a car is such important.
maybe you got 1 big straightway on a track but you got over 10 corners. and in a corner is where you want to overtake other cars.

:cheers:
 
Some other versions comes with a certain deck that protects the gas tank the tc3 is a great car but without the tank protector it has a vunerable weak spot.
 
Ain't that the truth! One good hit on the pipe and it shifts ofer and cracks your tank!
 
:spit: HA! He said "one good hit on the pipe"!!!

Sounds like that's one some of the posters on this forum have been doing lately! :boxing:
 
Diver6127 said:
Ain't that the truth! One good hit on the pipe and it shifts ofer and cracks your tank!

It never seemed like the tank would have a problem of being cracked in a wreck. What you said makes sense, but I guess I fixed that delima w/out even knowing it.

Because when I put my pipe on, I switched out pipe hangers and put on the Traxxas 2.5 Pipe Hanger. It is very heavy duty when compared to the associated hanger. The only way to bend it is with some plyers.

I better knock on some wood :hammer: , b/c now that I posted this, I'm sure that the next time I run I will probably crack my tank. For some reason me & Murphy's Law get along really good.
 
Digital Liquid said:
It never seemed like the tank would have a problem of being cracked in a wreck. What you said makes sense, but I guess I fixed that delima w/out even knowing it.

Because when I put my pipe on, I switched out pipe hangers and put on the Traxxas 2.5 Pipe Hanger. It is very heavy duty when compared to the associated hanger. The only way to bend it is with some plyers.

I better knock on some wood :hammer: , b/c now that I posted this, I'm sure that the next time I run I will probably crack my tank. For some reason me & Murphy's Law get along really good.

The only reason I've never upgraded to the K factory is #1 the price and I have no idea how the tank could last in hits. I've lost 3 tanks in this past year and thank god its only 7 buck to replace it. I hate to have to replace a k factory.
 
Digital Liquid said:
Because when I put my pipe on, I switched out pipe hangers and put on the Traxxas 2.5 Pipe Hanger. It is very heavy duty when compared to the associated hanger. The only way to bend it is with some plyers.
Look at where the hanger attaches on to the pipe and where the hanger is screwed on to the chassis ... these are pivot points that WILL give in a hit. The hanger may be straight after a bit but hit enough times, it will make it's way towards the tank.

The reason why a tank will crack is because there is no place for it to go, there is no "give" in a collision. A simple upgrade that has been used by racers is as follows ...

1. Remove tank.
2. cut 1/8" sections of fuel tubing
3. replace the O-rings under the tanks with fuel tubing.
4. Mount tank and run screws through the fuel tubing.
5. don't crank down all the way. Compress the fuel tubing slightly.
6. Cut a peice of flat lexan and stick it to the side of the fuel tank with foamy, double stick tape.

With this done, the tanks has some protection from the pipe AND the tanks will have some give if contact is made with the pipe. It will "lean" over in a collision.

Just remember that if hit hard enough, the tank will break no matter what, but at least you have a fighting chance in a collision.
 
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