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okie so i have the ez-start off and apart.. considering throwing it in the garbage! the owb is very oily/ greasy. I'm guessing to clean the owb i just clean it with a hot water soapy mix? i put the owb on the shaft and it seemed to grip and work properly. I'm wondering if something inside of the ez-start between the motor and the owb may have gone bad. considering taking the plastic cover off and giving it an eye. well I'm going to clean the owb and c if it helps!

oh yeah forgot. sorry about the amount of questions and postings. if I'm cleaning the owb u obviously dont oil it then right? thats why I'm cleaning it... wow are you laughing yet? seems like kind of a stupid question.. just want to be 100%
 
one of the gears in the ez-start could be missing a tooth. . .i was having the exact same problem you were and one of the gears was missing 3 teeth so that could be part of your problem. . .not going to guarantee anything but since you have it off already u might as well check it out
 
no problem at all. . .just about everyone here has either had the same problem or knows how to fix said problem. . .
 
StrykingRevo said:
okie so i have the ez-start off and apart.. considering throwing it in the garbage! the owb is very oily/ greasy. I'm guessing to clean the owb i just clean it with a hot water soapy mix? i put the owb on the shaft and it seemed to grip and work properly. I'm wondering if something inside of the ez-start between the motor and the owb may have gone bad. considering taking the plastic cover off and giving it an eye. well I'm going to clean the owb and c if it helps!

oh yeah forgot. sorry about the amount of questions and postings. if I'm cleaning the owb u obviously dont oil it then right? thats why I'm cleaning it... wow are you laughing yet? seems like kind of a stupid question.. just want to be 100%
Click to expand...


You can use the soapy water to clean the OWB, but make sure it is completely dry before you reinstall it. I prefer electric motor cleaner or denatured alcohol for cleaning, however.

I do not lube my OWB but that is just me. Most guys would caution to add a small drop of light machine oil (like 3-n-1) to the inside of the bearing. I would certainly suggest a little lube if you use soap and water to clean it! BTW--Huddy makes a One Way Bearing Oil that is supposed to be good but IMO it isn't anything but light machine oil at double the price, so don't buy into that B.S.

Do not worry about the amount of posts nor questions. We are here to help, and the last time I checked the only dumb question was the one that didn't get asked... ;)

revo_rob_1984 said:
one of the gears in the ez-start could be missing a tooth. . .i was having the exact same problem you were and one of the gears was missing 3 teeth so that could be part of your problem. . .not going to guarantee anything but since you have it off already u might as well check it out
Click to expand...


Yet another reason to ditch the EZ-Start!
 
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i was having problems with the owb in my revo also...sometimes it would catch, others you were spinning the starter for something to do...took it all apart shot a little wd40 in there, not a problem since!
 
HOW TO TEST UR ENGINE FOR AIR LEAKS

[ame="http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epEGetU7NFU&feature=related"]http://http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=epEGetU7NFU&feature=related[/ame]
 
Ok first off how about some pics of your setup. Second ditch the electrical tape and get some Zip ties. Electrical tape doesn't get tight enough, you can put some high temp rtv and put it on the pipe before putting the silicone coupler on but still have to zip tie it. Third go back to the longer fuel line it gives you more fuel to keep it from dying when sloshing around or when its on its lid.
 
GrudgE said:
Ok first off how about some pics of your setup. Second ditch the electrical tape and get some Zip ties. Electrical tape doesn't get tight enough, you can put some high temp rtv and put it on the pipe before putting the silicone coupler on but still have to zip tie it. Third go back to the longer fuel line it gives you more fuel to keep it from dying when sloshing around or when its on its lid.
Click to expand...

always wondered why the fuel lines were so long when i got my rig
thankyou for clearing that up
 
so to seal the backplate... just some rtv high heat all around where the starter and back of motor meet? i need to re-up on supplies thats why i havent been active. my local hobby shop is open on mondays (today), but not open to the public! this make any sense to anyone? kinda frustrating when u want parts. u seem them inside the shop but cannot get the parts! Tom. is the day this revo will come alive hopefully. i have a little work to do but am sure i should get it running.. testing for air leaks on motor and tank tonite thanks to solly69 for the upload! till tom. :whhooo:
 
Yeah, I use that liquid copper on the backplate. The guy who did that video on air leaks also has one on how to seal the engine and carb. 'See all videos' by squirrel(od) at youtube and you'll find it.

And no, that doesn't make sense to me about your LHS. That would piss me off if I needed parts. Is it a private owned LHS or a franchise?
If you need sealant, I got liquid copper at O'Reilly's. Someone said nitro fuel eats up the liquid copper, but I sealed mine up about a while back and have not had any problems with it and have had a really consistent tune since.
 
you might need to check your one-way-bearing, or also called your roller clutch which is located on the crankshaft once you pull the ez start and make sure that the text on the bearing is facing the engine cause if not your combustion will work backwards to where your fuel will try to suck in the exaust and escape through the carb
 
Well i have took all advice... took off owb, cleaned, and lubed it with 3-in-1 works like new now. i finally was able to get into my LHS and got some fuel line.. clear and longer this time. i put everything back together and primed. went to go start and it wouldnt turn over. with air filter off it was spitting gas through the open carb. so i kept trying till my starter battery died. near end it started getting louder like it was going to try and start. i did not test for air leaks in the exhaust. wish i had. when i brought it back in and looked at it. i noticed a tear in my exhaust boot on the under side. grrr. wish i would have noticed earlier i would have a new one by now. just to get her started put some high heat rtv to "quick fix it". i will have one exhause boot on order tonite!
 
okie soo like i said i sealed my exhaust boot with some trv high heat and waiting on a new one. i got it started and it wont stay running.. going to make sure needles r in right spots but i already know they are. i know this ofna picco motor is really tight. it was only 43 deg. when i brought it outside. that may have been a factor. i only got the engine temp up to 180. it wouldnt stay running without plug ignitor in. not warm enough right? to give it some gas i put its front bumper against my house and tried to make sure it had enough gas to keep running.. I'm pretty sure my idle screw isnt set correctly? I'm going to try and find where it should be but am hoping the answer will be here sometime soon. ofna picco .26 on a revo 2.5R
 
my suggestion to you is to heat up your engine with a blow dryer just to bring the temperature up, because yes as you stated above they are extremly tight and if you heat them up it will make it easier to start when you go to start it. . .and you may want to wait for it to get a little warmer outside before you try and run. . .thats just my opinion i will not run in less than 55-60 degree weather but like i said thats just me
 
sounds like when you tried to start it the first time you flooded the engine hence why it was spitting raw fuel out of the carb. Since you flooded the engine you may have fouled the glow plug hence the reason you have to keep an ignitor on it for it to run. I would pull the glow plug turn the truck upside down and spin it over for a bit to clear any excess fuel. Put a new glow plug in it. Find out what the factory settings are for your motor and then start over.
 
i have learned that anytime i have an issue or change fuels or do anything to the engine that the tune needs to be changed i always go back to factory before i begin. saves alot of headaches. Remember start rich and go lean.
 

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