No Prep Dragster shock absorbers Rustler VXL

[Heisenburg]

What manner of springs and shocks do I want front and rear, for my Rustler no prep? Hard? Soft? Short? Tall?

 

[tntpoof]

all depends on surface and if you can lock shocks out Thats what I did with my npdr slash. nitro tube inside and outside on shocks shafts..

 

[Heisenburg]

I would say parking lot, that at an eyeball's glance, appears to be flat.

 

[Heisenburg]

What weight of oil, front and rear?

 

[Heisenburg]

Do we want a rear toe-in alignment on a Slash-based dragster?

 

[johnnydmd]

Shocks - you'll need something that is easily adjustable. You need 90mm in the front, 100 for the rear. The front shocks you'll need to open up and make them compressed with the fuel tube trick, to lower the front a bit about 10-15mm.

I know people hate on Integy, but I have always thought their shocks are good. These models have two different springs, and are easily adjusted, and don't leak at all - https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=34126&p_catid=109 and https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=34135&p_catid=109

For toe-in, you're gonna get a lot of different views. I think the stock Slash toe in is 3.5 (or 2.5) degrees - it's pretty extreme. It's great for the first 60 ft and staying straight, but it kills the top end. Some like 0 degree, but that's definitely harder to drive. IMO the best is 1 degree arms made by STRC - https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-rac...akIu8Fl-jESI1MJhc_FvEenDdaao0A6EaAsRwEALw_wcB

These also give you a tiny bit of extra weight over the axles where you need it.

When you adjust, it's a matter of getting it to go straight when the tires shake lose. I was going hard right, and you can see why - my right tire is ballooning while the left is flat -

Wheelie bar wheel on the right is on the ground, left is up. So I need to stiffen up the right shock - or soften the left, since both shocks are set very stiff.

I use 15wt oil front and 50wt in the rear. There are a lot of varying opinions on that too. Prevailing theory is to use lighter in the front, heavier in the rear.

 

[WickedFog]

Shocks - you'll need something that is easily adjustable. You need 90mm in the front, 100 for the rear. The front shocks you'll need to open up and make them compressed with the fuel tube trick, to lower the front a bit about 10-15mm.

I know people hate on Integy, but I have always thought their shocks are good. These models have two different springs, and are easily adjusted, and don't leak at all - https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=34126&p_catid=109 and https://www.integy.com/st_prod.html?p_prodid=34135&p_catid=109

For toe-in, you're gonna get a lot of different views. I think the stock Slash toe in is 3.5 (or 2.5) degrees - it's pretty extreme. It's great for the first 60 ft and staying straight, but it kills the top end. Some like 0 degree, but that's definitely harder to drive. IMO the best is 1 degree arms made by STRC - https://www.amainhobbies.com/st-rac...akIu8Fl-jESI1MJhc_FvEenDdaao0A6EaAsRwEALw_wcB

These also give you a tiny bit of extra weight over the axles where you need it.

When you adjust, it's a matter of getting it to go straight when the tires shake lose. I was going hard right, and you can see why - my right tire is ballooning while the left is flat -

View attachment 142965

Wheelie bar wheel on the right is on the ground, left is up. So I need to stiffen up the right shock - or soften the left, since both shocks are set very stiff.

I use 15wt oil front and 50wt in the rear. There are a lot of varying opinions on that too. Prevailing theory is to use lighter in the front, heavier in the rear.

Now that is some great info brother. And that goes to show how beneficial it is to film or at least photo your RC to see what's really going on. The scale alone of these cars makes it very difficult to see exactly what's causing handling trouble.

As for the Integy stuff, I have had hit and miss with them. They do make great shocks, but I bought 4 one time and the pivot balls on two of them were almost completely froze up. I did my best to loosen them up. I used polishing compound and bolted a screw in the pivot balls to spin them with my drill, but ended up requesting replacements (that I never received). The aluminum parts I have bought from them has been pretty ok for the most part though. They do have some soft aluminum.

 

[Heisenburg]

Do you recommend a spool locker or bery tight differential for the tyres ballooning unevenly?

 

[johnnydmd]

Do you recommend a spool locker or bery tight differential for the tyres ballooning unevenly?

I would not lock the spool. Most guys add 1mil or so diff fluid to make it act like a limited slip. When it's locked, it's harder to keep straight - that much I can vouch for with my 1/10 funny car that has a solid axle. Man that thing is hard to drive.

 

[WickedFog]

I put 500k in our Slash drag car, but have yet to drive it. Hopefully soon we can get it out for a rip. I considered a locked diff, but figured as johnny said that it would be a bit wild.