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No engine power?

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Powerman6766

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My engine has no power, but I can't even run half a take of fuel without it reaching a temp. of 250.I can't pop any wheelies and somtimes it sounds like the engine bogs.When I asked a question about my engine before SkyMaxx said to richen it up a little.Ever since then after every run I have been turning it a little tad out.By a tad I mean not even half of a half turn.It dosn't seem to bog as much.But when I am coming into a turn and I press the brake a little to slow it down so it dosnt flip then when i turn and press on the gas again it bogs down for about 2 seconds then starts to take off.But like I said there is hardly any power.And it isnt stuck in 2nd gear either.Any help?

Thanks,
Powerman6766
 
Have you been adjusting the low speed needle? Your problem might lie w/ both needles. You may have the high speed to lean and the low speed too rich in an attempt to compensate. With the HSN to lean you will get the high temps & w/ the LSN too rich you will get the bog when you hit the throttle. The best thing to do would be to try and take it back to factory settings and start tuning from there.

I believe the HSN is 4 1/2 turns out & the LSN is 3 turns out if I'm not mistaken. Have you tried taking it back to factory settings?
 
Yeah I have been adjusting the HSN but I set the LSN untill there was a 2mm gap in the carb. just like the book said.I have set it back to factory setting about 4-5 times and retuned it.I just finally got it tuned to where it runs good.But is started bogging so I asked (on another thread) why it was doing that.Skymaxx said the rioch the HSN and I have been doing that ever since.But the engine has no power.And it is barley useing fuel.
 
Has your truck always run like this? Or did you do anything to it recently?

What fuel are you using? It could be bad or your engine might not simply like it. I have seen Sidewinder, Wildcat, & Trinity Monster run in the savage w/ poor results.

You stated that it is barely using fuel, so maybe your pressure line is your problem. Have you checked it for leaks? How long is the pressure line?

Let us know & we can hopefully begin to isolate the performance issues.
 
The LSN giving you a 2mm gap is a mis-communication. The LSN does nothing with regards to the gap in the carb. The idle set screw on the other hand will control the gap in the carb. SO if you have been adjusting the LSN in hopes of changing your carb opening, that might be causing some of the problems.

This thread has a lot more clues in it for us to help you solve the problem. I concur with Digital Liquid in that you need to take everything back to factory presets for the engine in question.

From there, leave the LSN alone and get the HSN set. Once you have the HSN set, you can start tuning the LSN if it is needed.

As for what I told you in the previous thread, please read it again. CLICK HERE

I told you it did not sound like an issue with your idle or LSN, but that it sounded as if you were too rich on the HSN. Bogging is caused by too much fuel being introduced into the engine at once (ie too rich). Did you try leaning the engine at all?

Also, please note that 250 is not too hot. For most engines that is right where it needs to be.
 
SkyMaxx said:
The LSN giving you a 2mm gap is a mis-communication. The LSN does nothing with regards to the gap in the carb. The idle set screw on the other hand will control the gap in the carb. SO if you have been adjusting the LSN in hopes of changing your carb opening, that might be causing some of the problems.

This thread has a lot more clues in it for us to help you solve the problem. I concur with Digital Liquid in that you need to take everything back to factory presets for the engine in question.

From there, leave the LSN alone and get the HSN set. Once you have the HSN set, you can start tuning the LSN if it is needed.

As for what I told you in the previous thread, please read it again. CLICK HERE

I told you it did not sound like an issue with your idle or LSN, but that it sounded as if you were too rich on the HSN. Bogging is caused by too much fuel being introduced into the engine at once (ie too rich). Did you try leaning the engine at all?

Also, please note that 250 is not too hot. For most engines that is right where it needs to be.

Yeah but that is after running almost half a tank...If I ran a whole tank the engine would be way over 270 wich is into the danger level according to the engine manual.I have no clue what I am supposed to do because I got 20 different people telling me 20 different things. RTR satnds for ready-to-run should stand for ready-to-repair.

Digital Liquid said:
Has your truck always run like this? Or did you do anything to it recently?

What fuel are you using? It could be bad or your engine might not simply like it. I have seen Sidewinder, Wildcat, & Trinity Monster run in the savage w/ poor results.

You stated that it is barely using fuel, so maybe your pressure line is your problem. Have you checked it for leaks? How long is the pressure line?

Let us know & we can hopefully begin to isolate the performance issues.

I broke it in then after that I always had a problem with the thing goig all by itself.I could let off the trigger and it would just go all by itself I never had the pull the trigger if I didn't want to.If I would let it travel like this by itself it would just continue the gain speed so I had to put on the break.Then when I tried to pull the trigger to make it go it would just bog for a while then decided to go but it would continureto go by itself.So I adjusted the idel screw and the LSN to make it more rich (i think) and it stopped doing it.Then the next day I started it up and it started the bogging crap.I asked why and I got the feeling from, everyone that it was to lean.So I began to move the screw out.It has pretty much stopped the bogging but it has no f'ing power.

I am useing Trinity Monster Fuel.First I was useing Traxxas Top Fuel then my dad said he didn't want to use that in my truck so we bought Trinity Monster Brew.(20% Nitro, 16% oil)No he is thinking of changeing to somthing else.I am really confused here.
 
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Hey man I run Trinity Monster Brew 20% in my savage,with no problems. Stick with the fuel and tune the carb,youll get it.
 
joneser4u said:
Hey man I run Trinity Monster Brew 20% in my savage,with no problems. Stick with the fuel and tune the carb,youll get it.

I just don't think I am cut our for nitro r/c. :hammer: :rolleyes: :shrug: :bored: :dumb: I am to confused...Plus I am *beeped* off because I can't figure out what to do. Kinda wished I got a T-Maxx my uncle never has problems with his.He never has to tune his.
 
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You are right, if you are willing to give in this quick,you dont need a nitro.But if you want to fix it, you will have loads more fun with nitro.
 
joneser4u said:
You are right, if you are willing to give in this quick,you dont need a nitro.But if you want to fix it, you will have loads more fun with nitro.

This quick!Whatever!I ahve had to keep tuneing this thing since day one.There isnt one day I havn't gone without haveing to tune this.
 
Poweman don't give up. :nono: You'll have to get used to tuning your engine/truck. I tell you it doesn't matter which truck you own, if you like to enjoy running nitro, you have to get used to tuning problems. It takes awhile to know your truck, be more patient buddy. If you are frustrated, put it away for a day or two. Then come back to it with a fresh mind. :winnar:
 
Thats what I did...It might be put away for more than a day or two though.
 
I have to recommend you put it away for a few also,do some studying maybe even a search or 2 on here for tuning tips.When I first came here I had a T-MAXX with a pro.15, it wouldnt run for poop,if it actually started I could run about 20ft wide open and it would stall just to not start back.I gave up on it and sold it.Biggest mistake I ever made kinda,I bought a savage to replace it after a year I can rebuild just about anything related to an r/c, hang in there and knowledge and experiance is key!
 
joneser4u said:
I have to recommend you put it away for a few also,do some studying maybe even a search or 2 on here for tuning tips.When I first came here I had a T-MAXX with a pro.15, it wouldnt run for poop,if it actually started I could run about 20ft wide open and it would stall just to not start back.I gave up on it and sold it.Biggest mistake I ever made kinda,I bought a savage to replace it after a year I can rebuild just about anything related to an r/c, hang in there and knowledge and experiance is key!

Got a good tuneing site.I have a Nitro Star S-25
 
You should go over to savage-central and read the engine tuning faq's which might be quite helpful to you. The s25 is very easy to tune provided that you haven't messed around with the needles and the engine is properly sealed.
 
Its definatly a lean bog take your lsn out a few turns then see what that does. If it does the rich sounding girgle then turn it in 1/8 turn at a time until it runs well. You'll also notice that the temps are going to drop drastically. My hyper 8 port did this for a while until i brought out the low end. Richer is usually better! Richen up the low end and you'll be fine!
 
If you have your idle screw set for the 2mm gap then it should not make a difference what position the LSN or HSN are in (unless the LSN is way too rich then it will not idle as it should). Best to start with the LSN first to find your best setting for throttle response, hard to say which way to turn it because i dont know what its at now (rich or lean) so you will have to find out for yourself, turn one way until the improvment in throttle response stops, if no improvement then turn the other way until you get some. When you have best throttle response you can get by adjusting the LSN then its time to start with the HSN, again turn which ever way improves performance, you may have to adjust the LSN again later on to compensate for the fuel mixture difference created by adjusting the HSN but it will be minimal. Once you have got your throttle response set with the LSN and your top speed set with the HSN then turn the HSN out by 1/8 to 1/2 a turn just to aid in the cooling process. ps. remember to do most of your tuning on half a tank when the engine is good and hot.
 
I think the reason the coasting is happening. is your idle set too high. the carb opening is controlled by the idle set screw on the other side, (look at the diagram in the engine tuning manual ) the low speed needle is not the same thing. . slowly close the idle set screw just until it stops trying to creep or move without the truck moving. also check the trim setting on your radio to make sure it is at neutral that may also be the problem. once you correct that you should be able to tune it right.
 
Also Powerman, you must have heard folks saying "tune by ear" or sound, once you get your truck dialed in, you would know there's a lot of truth into this. Tuning by sound/ear or the way your truck responds when you pump the throttle is the best way to get optimum performance from your truck.
:cheers:
 
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