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Nitrous Oxide T-Maxx.

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Went and checked out the site - looking good man! Now you have the kits for sale ;)

I wanted to ask about the spring mod in the diff. How have the diff's held up LONG term with that mod?
 
Does it impact the mesh at all? I find myself shimming the spider inward vs. outward. Did you run into any mesh issues with the pinion?
 
None, in fact what failed was the plastic cup itself, the pin sheared the slot for the pin from the torque of the .21
 
I know from 1.1 engines,not only do you need more fuel you also need to change your ignition timing?I believe some sleeve port work would have to be performed to get the nos to work properly
 
With the two strokes ignition timing does not have to be performed, we have discussed trying different porting teqniques but have not yet done so.
 
After I burn up those cartridges, do you all sell more? How much for how many?

Ohh, and how does the spring diff mod help traction? What exactly does it do for the diff?
Thanks a lot, -
Bryan
 
the bottles cannot be refilled, they should be about $1.50 each (at the absolute most) the spring diff mod more or less makes it more difficult for the spiders to move indepenantly of eachother, which causes a posi like rearend, it is like a spool but tires in a high traction environment can still spin freely so you don't twist axles like you would with a spool. Also at JAG RC we have a new nitrous discussion forum up, check it out at www.jagrc.com/forum
 
This idea is very intresting but I Know a couple tricks about nitrous. Nitrous is used for 4-strokes and Rarely for 2-strokers. The reason why: I dont know! I believe that Running a RC engine under .70 wouldnt work, the lean+rich mixture wouldnt work, and the the BIGGEST Problem is that you can't ONLY run on Nitrous. You need something to combust. The nitrous is like cocaine, it speeds it up but you need something already going. Its pretty much and additive, and M@xx also mentioned, mixing lube is also neccessary. I say, stick with the .21 conversion.
 
That kits awesome...I might have to get it sometime

Is there any plans to make it work with a ntc3?
 
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Interesting thread,


Here's my two cents....for what it's worth..hehe. Having been someone that's run the bottle in everything from little inline Honda 4bangers to "bored out" big block chevy and ford motors......I've got some experience with NOS. Nitrus Express, NOS BRAND....even ZEX....they all work great when you have everything you need and have everything "dialed in" properly but they all have their flaws.

But first, (and this isn't a rhetorical question..lol). What's the one FUNDEMENTAL problem with NOS and ANY RC MOTORS??? Wheter it's short term or god forbid, long term use?? I will say one thing, if you wanna impress your rc buddies at the track it would be do-able for drag racing but if your going to reek that much havoc on your motor you might as well run the phucking superchargear...lol

Think about it guys and gals and I'll get back to ya?

No dis to anyone BTW and agagin it's a great idea but nothing that would be doable on a fullscale basis....forget practical...lol.

Peace
 
Originally posted by SilentHunterKellen
This idea is very intresting but I Know a couple tricks about nitrous. Nitrous is used for 4-strokes and Rarely for 2-strokers. The reason why: I dont know! I believe that Running a RC engine under .70 wouldnt work, the lean+rich mixture wouldnt work, and the the BIGGEST Problem is that you can't ONLY run on Nitrous. You need something to combust. The nitrous is like cocaine, it speeds it up but you need something already going. Its pretty much and additive, and M@xx also mentioned, mixing lube is also neccessary. I say, stick with the .21 conversion.

Yep dude and I guess cocaine is a pretty good anology for nos...lol......

Instead of typing this I guess I'll just plageraize...


"There are three points. First, nitrous oxide is comprised of 2 parts nitrogen and one part oxygen (36% oxygen by weight). When the nitrous oxide is heated to approximately 572oF (on compression stroke), it breaks down and release extra oxygen, However, it is not this oxygen alone which creates additional power, but the ability of this oxygen to burn more fuel. By burning more fuel, higher cylinder pressures are created and this is where most of the additional power is realized. Secondly, as pressurized nitrous oxide is injected into the intake manifold, it changes from a liquid to a gas (boils). This boiling affect reduces the temperature of the nitrous to a minus .127 Degrees F. This "cooling affect" in turn significantly reduces intake charge temperatures by approximately 60-75 Degrees F. This also helps create additional power. A general rule of thumb: For every 10 Degrees F. reduction in intake charge temperature, a 1% increase in power will be realized. Example: A 350 HP engine with an intake temperature drop of 70 Degrees F, would gain approximately 25 HP on the cooling affect alone. The third point, the nitrogen that was also released during the compression stroke performs an important role. Nitrogen acts to "buff or dampen" the increased cylinder pressures leading to a controlled combustion process".

Now matter what you applied (and how freaking often you tuned it) you'd always be running to rich or to lean with a RC motor......to rich and it sucks....to lean and KA_BLAMOO.....detonation (one word that no nos head wants to here). YOu probably not going to actually blow the motor aprt...lol, but you'll have allot of nice holes in your piston and motor.

Peace

Originally posted by kwong2001
you could just run the supercharger and nitrous...lol

Yep dude,

I want the Pick Outlaw .26 T-maxx conversion and then I think I'll slap on that uuuuhh supercharger and then I'll run a 100 shot (uuuurr wait how are they metering the shots of nos going into the motor for the proper nos and extra fuel mixture...lol) of nos and while I'm at it I'll throw on a turbo running 19lbs of boost (scale boost of course..hehe) (when will that turbo have time to spool and uuuhh wait a turbo wouldn't work either).

Peace
 
Now matter what you applied (and how freaking often you tuned it) you'd always be running to rich or to lean with a RC motor......to rich and it sucks....to lean and KA_BLAMOO.....detonation (one word that no nos head wants to here). YOu probably not going to actually blow the motor aprt...lol, but you'll have allot of nice holes in your piston and motor.

I would agree with this, if we were injecting liquid nitrous, however we are injecting nitrous in it's gas form, thus the cooling effect while still there, is not that of an automotive situation. If you look at our tech section on our page ( www.jagrc.com/tech.html ) that clearly explains how we are getting more fuel, while still maintaining normal needle settings.
 
Originally posted by maxxheadroom


I would agree with this, if we were injecting liquid nitrous, however we are injecting nitrous in it's gas form, thus the cooling effect while still there, is not that of an automotive situation. If you look at our tech section on our page ( www.jagrc.com/tech.html ) that clearly explains how we are getting more fuel, while still maintaining normal needle settings.

Sup maxheadroom,

First of all let me say that I applaud you for your current attempts to develop a NOS system for the Traxxas 2.5 "racing" (BIG KUDDOS). THe obvious advatages of NOS are far superior IMHO to any other "boost" application as with "normal" combustion motor applications if properly implimented, and with plenty of R&D which your kit doesn't seem to have. Let me also say that I mean no disrespect whatsoever and I'm not trying to "prove you wrong" or be an as*hole but it appears that your barely in the beta stages (at this point you should be workign on copyright type things and handing out beta testrs to people who are willing to take the chance of destroying their motors) of this project that your trying to sell as a finished "kit".

"I would agree with this, if we were injecting liquid nitrous, however we are injecting nitrous in it's gas form, thus the cooling effect while still there, is not that of an automotive situation. If you look at our tech section on our page ( www.jagrc.com/tech.html ) that clearly explains how we are getting more fuel, while still maintaining normal needle settings".

Again I mean no disrespect but, What does this have to do with the price of hookers in Bangkok? What cooling effect are you reffering to?? Are you saying that the "precived" cooling effect that you say your getting is compensating for to much fuel or the lack their-of?? All your saying is that your getting more fuel , that doesn't mean that your getting the precise ammout of fuel for the "shot" of NOS that your shooting in the combustion chamber via the air intake (the same way the zex system works on my Nissan Pathfinder). Your system is the same as the Zex that I run on my truck in that it's a "dry" nos system that in the ZEX delievers a precise "metered" ammount of NOS gas VIA the air intake and the SYSTEM as a whole delievers a precise ammout of extra fuel for the perfecet NOS effect without a lean or rich situation. The "wet" systems that your might be reffering to are the NOS and Nitrous Express that are "direct port" or use nitrous foggers but the fact that they're are a wet system as opposed to a dry system has nothing to do without the price of tea in china as it's only the deleivery method!

Again the most important thing is the perfect PRECISE mixture of NOS and extra fuel and prefferably "2 degree cooler sparkplugs" to redude the chances of any detonation caused by the sparkplugs staying hot (in regular car appliactions with spark plugs of course.

Again, what is this cooling effect that you reffering to in refference to DRY VS WET?? Does the cooling effect compensate for a rich or lean situation...lol?? As stated above whether it's a dry system like yours or a wet one that went directly into the combustion chamber, I'm been running NOS in cars for years and years and this "cooling effect" is news to me and sounds like some type of hype bullchit (again no offense). For your system to work properly you'd probably need some type of fuel pump like system and you have to make sure again that you had the perfect ammount of fuel per "shot" that was delivered to the motor!

"At that point it makes it's way into the combustion chamber and boost occurs! This sounds like a lot of steps but it happens VERY quickly! Now as more power is produced the exhaust is coming out more rapidly, and with a lot more force due to the nitrous being burned. This in turn cause exhaust pressure to go up, thus increasing fuel line pressure, which increases fuel tank pressure. We found that while running wide open throttle with nitrous you will burn 64.31% more fuel than running wide open throttle without nitrous. This is how the extra fuel is added while running with nitrous! The mixture settings stay the same as they would without nitrous! Well that about covers the basics of our system"

No dis but your "tech" page sounds like your marketing this to nieve 12 year olds with a speed jones and allot of spending money. You need to elaborate on ALLOT of things on your tech page. Keep in mind that ALLOT of rc dudes and chicks are 20+ dudes like myself with college degrees that enjoy this hobby immensely. Yes, your fuel pressure is increased but that doesn't mean that your getting the proper ammount of extra fuel for the "shot" your running. You said your buring 64.3% over stock, where do you get this number from? Are we to assume that this increase in fuel usage corelates to the proper ammout of fuel for the "shot of nos"???

How long have you been runing the "finsihed" system?? How often are you taking the ENTIRE motor apart to check for detonation or rich running?? If you are checking often for detonation and not experiencing any then we can only assume that either

A. Your did a good job starting on a dry nos sytem and your selling it way to soon and I feel sorry for the people who buy it and destroy their motors in short order or

B. Your just totally lucked out with the increase in fuel pressure that your getting and it's a perfect mix or

C. Assuming that your not detonating, My theory is that your system isn't detonating because it's running way to rich which would be crap but not as bad as allot of lean detonation!

BTW....Assuming that your system is running perfectly, what kind of decrease in motor life would you guesstimate??

wow that was a mouth full.

Peace
 
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I just want to see before and after dyno charts on several engines. It's no secret that nitrous decreases engine life, sometimes severely. But is the decrease worth the performance gain?? Well, I don't know because there's no accurately metered proof VIA dyno results. Show me the charts!
 
This thread is already way too technical for me but I started it so ....
(if it sounds like I'm not understanding the thread so far, assume I'm not)

The cooling effect and delivery method.


QUOTE: "Again, what is this cooling effect that you reffering to in refference to DRY VS WET?? Does the cooling effect compensate for a rich or lean situation...lol?? As stated above whether it's a dry system like yours or a wet one that went directly into the combustion chamber, I'm been running NOS in cars for years and years and this "cooling effect" is news to me and sounds like some type of hype bullchit (again no offense)."


I can see where delivery could possibly make a large difference. I've never seen an actual nitrous set up in a 1:1. But I've played around with nitrous cartridges. When you pop open one of those cartridges. The gas being released from the cartridge is super cold and causes the cartridge to frost over even on a hot day. If the cartridge was opened and the gas was allowed to normalize in temp before being introduced to the intake, I would imagine that would create a very different situation than if you ported the liquid straight into the chamber. The changing from liquid to gas so close to (or in) the chamber would drastically altar motor temps. No?

I'm not saying you are wrong or right, I am wondering though if you are saying that there are no cooling properties in the conversion from liquid to gas that would affect engine temps?

Or more to the point....I dont know

I will agree with you ....a drag situation may be do-able (and fun), but to invest money in a nitrous system, as a serious upgrade, for an RC thats already thats already soooo fast just seems like overkill anyway.

But if you're like me the cost is worth it, to prove the skeptics wrong. Thats why I introduced the idea here. For debate.
 
No dis MaxHeadRoom but could you please answer some of my questions to some extent.......I've been patiently waiting! Or am I to assume that the Nos kit is very much in "Beta" stages!

TIA
 
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