I've been having some trouble with keeping my engine running well at idle speed. The trouble seems to start when I've run through about 1/2 a tank. After the throttle has been open and it returns to idle position the engine will stall. It occurs less frequently when the idle rpm is higher but the truck rolls without the brake. This engine only has one needle and I have that at factory setting but I have tried leaning by about 3/4 turn and rinchenig by the same but the problem still occurs. I know the engine isn't overheating but I don't want to kill the engine by running to lean. Sorry about such a lengthy post but just wanted to to make sure I described the problem acuratley
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Nitro Star 15FE trouble
- Thread starter D.B.
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That wasn't a long post 
Hey, welcome to the forums..
As for your problem. First, try these steps and see if this fixes your problem..
Set the idle all the way open while running, then move the idle slower until the truck stops moving, no lower. Just before the truck/car's clutch engages and causes the RC to move.
Do this with the body off. Run it through a the 1/2 tank and see if it stalls. If it does, then there most likely is another problem. Test the engine for heat, place a bit of spit on the head of the motor, if it bubbles, there's an issue with overheating, if it doesn't, then you're fine in the department. With only one adjustment screw, it's going to be hard to "set it up". Low end and high end screws work hand in hand. But I guess sometimes manufacturers find ways around things.
Now if you're not overheating, try leaning the engine out until she gets close to a perfect running temp, I myself like 200, but other people like 220-250.. or whatnot. Just see if that is your problem.
Also, make sure there is no air leaks in the fuel system. One air leak can cause many hours of irritation, trust me, I know from experience lol! Check everything you can.
Also, just incase, let's make sure. While the motor is cold, use your finger to spin the flywheel, if it's really easy to turn, you may have an engine pretty much done. If it's tight, and takes a little force to turn over, then you hear a "pop" out of the exaust, the motor isn't the fault..
After that, I'd personally adventure into a carbuerator check.
Hope this helps you.
AoD
Hey, welcome to the forums..
As for your problem. First, try these steps and see if this fixes your problem..
Set the idle all the way open while running, then move the idle slower until the truck stops moving, no lower. Just before the truck/car's clutch engages and causes the RC to move.
Do this with the body off. Run it through a the 1/2 tank and see if it stalls. If it does, then there most likely is another problem. Test the engine for heat, place a bit of spit on the head of the motor, if it bubbles, there's an issue with overheating, if it doesn't, then you're fine in the department. With only one adjustment screw, it's going to be hard to "set it up". Low end and high end screws work hand in hand. But I guess sometimes manufacturers find ways around things.
Now if you're not overheating, try leaning the engine out until she gets close to a perfect running temp, I myself like 200, but other people like 220-250.. or whatnot. Just see if that is your problem.
Also, make sure there is no air leaks in the fuel system. One air leak can cause many hours of irritation, trust me, I know from experience lol! Check everything you can.
Also, just incase, let's make sure. While the motor is cold, use your finger to spin the flywheel, if it's really easy to turn, you may have an engine pretty much done. If it's tight, and takes a little force to turn over, then you hear a "pop" out of the exaust, the motor isn't the fault..
After that, I'd personally adventure into a carbuerator check.
Hope this helps you.
AoD
SilentHunterKellen
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Does your engine always stall at the same amount of fuel? If so, its probably an air leak of some sort. Check the tank for air leaks and check your fuel tubing for air leaks. If not, I dont know what to tell you. When the engine stalls, does it rev alot or just die? If it overrevvs its probably still an air leak. If it just dies, I can't really help you.
I too have the same engine and it runs good once you dial in the settings. The stock tank has one problem, the primer button. If you remove the primer, air leaks will be fixed. But hey, do what you want, its your engine.
I also have one more comment, when you richen and lean out the engine, turn the needle about 1/16 of a turn each time. 3/4 is way to much. You wont get the proper results if you turn it so much. Just lean it out a little until you dont see an improvement on speed or acceleration. Then, richen it about 2 clicks. (you know what I'm talking about) That should do it. And, finally, Welcome to RCNT. Its a good place, lots of knowledgable people here.
[move]-Kellen[/move]
I too have the same engine and it runs good once you dial in the settings. The stock tank has one problem, the primer button. If you remove the primer, air leaks will be fixed. But hey, do what you want, its your engine.
I also have one more comment, when you richen and lean out the engine, turn the needle about 1/16 of a turn each time. 3/4 is way to much. You wont get the proper results if you turn it so much. Just lean it out a little until you dont see an improvement on speed or acceleration. Then, richen it about 2 clicks. (you know what I'm talking about) That should do it. And, finally, Welcome to RCNT. Its a good place, lots of knowledgable people here.
[move]-Kellen[/move]