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Nitro engine modifiers

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To Extreme RC mods;
Thank you Sir. That was a very informative and professional reply. I love listening to someone who knows what they're doing. I haven't been running nitro's very long but I love the power they put out. I'm mainly beating trucks around the back yard but I also have 3 road cars and I'd like to get into road racing. When I get to the point of wanting more performance out of a motor, I'm going to put it in a box and send it to you. Thank you.
 
for my cars, I modify it by my self, and I am too much happy to the results. I have buggy s8bx2 with LRP ZR30 SPEC 2: XT2 CONVERT TO ONROAD with LRP Z21R ENGINE, XTM TRUGGY with SH 28; SAVAGE X with XTM28 ALL OF THEM ARE MODIFIED.
 
Have run ERCM picco .28 drag mod and ERCM end bleed pipe. Produced insane power about an extra 10-15% over stock with an 086 pipe. Robin is a great guy and will walk new comers to his motors through break-in and tuning. One thing I will recomend is having a good background in tuning first as my motor had a 1-2 hour window on the tune and was very sensitive to temp and humidy changes. Not a Hugh deal as even with a stock motor your tune needs to be adjusted all day anyway just very sensitive on any modded motor. And more sensitive the further the modding has been pushed.

I have now modded several of my own motors 2 NStar25's picco 26 f4.6 and about to do an OS 30. Trying this yourself with a dremal and only a basic knowlage is not something to be recommended and even with an advanced knowlage don't do it if you aren't willing to take that motor and chuck it in the trash cause in all likely hood you will do it with a few motors before you get one that A: still runs and B: runs better than when you started.
 
Just researching for future experimenting. Hell I still have a bunch to learn before I actually attempt to mod one myself. And when I do it will be on motors that are throwaways. Thanks for the input. I'm just enjoying the two I have running and as long as I can do that I'm happy. I am going to start racing my revo in a couple months when my LHS gets the RC track finished and I believe I've got enough performance coming from my revo to get started. Not saying I will win any but just to start and be involved will be good for me.
 
More important in racing than speed and power is just smooth driving. More often than not the guy who wins a race is not the guy with the most power or most money into his rig it is the guy who gets around the track cleanest. Focus on getting in and out of turns clean and watch in front of your car not your car and you will do just fine. Maybe not win but you won't be last. Practice often and always focus on your driving not beating the guy in front of you.
 
Pope said:
Have run ERCM picco .28 drag mod and ERCM end bleed pipe. Produced insane power about an extra 10-15% over stock with an 086 pipe. Robin is a great guy and will walk new comers to his motors through break-in and tuning. One thing I will recomend is having a good background in tuning first as my motor had a 1-2 hour window on the tune and was very sensitive to temp and humidy changes. Not a Hugh deal as even with a stock motor your tune needs to be adjusted all day anyway just very sensitive on any modded motor. And more sensitive the further the modding has been pushed.

I have now modded several of my own motors 2 NStar25's picco 26 f4.6 and about to do an OS 30. Trying this yourself with a dremal and only a basic knowlage is not something to be recommended and even with an advanced knowlage don't do it if you aren't willing to take that motor and chuck it in the trash cause in all likely hood you will do it with a few motors before you get one that A: still runs and B: runs better than when you started.
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As far back as I can remember, your the only one who had tuning issues with one of my engines. That's probably why you only saw a 10-15% difference over stock. Didn't you get that picco .26 up to 450F as well :hehe:

Just keep the trash can in mind if your going to cut that OS .30, that's probably where it will end up once you open that ABN sleeve ;)
 
Yea that 26 over heat happened when I started RC. I'm sorry let me clarify what I posted. I got what I saw as a 10-15% gain over a stock picco .28 based on my friends picco .28 stock motor on an 086 pipe for both the pipe and motor giving a combined gain of 20-30% on top end rpm's on a 30k rpm motor that brings you to almost 40k rpms. Quite the increase. As for the tuning window I am talking about a 1-2 hour window for peak proformance not for a normal running range. If I was just trying to get a good bash day tune on it I had about a 4-6 hour window on the HSN and about a 3-5 hour window on the LSN.

In no way am I talking down your knowlage or work. Also the motor I had you had told me at the time was timed out to be the second farthest you had taken any other sold motor( not including the ones you did for yourself) I believe you told me only Justin's motor had been taken further as far as non personal mods.

To try to talk bad about me I don't understand. I have done nothing but say great things about you EVER and recommend only you when someone asks for a engine mod.

Also I realize that I may well destroy the OS but I am fully prepared to do so. I have never touched a motor I wasn't willing to throw in the garbage. I have however done a handful of personal motors with great results. Is it near what you have done certainly not. Do I have a good grasp on what I am doing with them yes. I have spent two years learning what I am doing with them. Do I know how to tune a motor. Absolutely and who do I credit with that? You. After I over heated that picco you showed me what I was doing wrong and how to do it right. It wasn't till after I learned through what you taught me about tuning and applied testing did I even consider getting one of your mills. No way would I have bought a 300+$ mill without being able to tune it.
 
Also that picco .26 overheated on the track. I knew when it started over heating and ran it anyway knowing I was continuing to fry it. Why because winning that race was more important than the cost to replace it. I could have easily taken it off the track or given up a few positions to bring it in to adjust the way out of wack tune but I wanted to win at any cost. I did not however. Lost by a 1/4 a lap cause the motor finally refused to go over a few MPH. Lol. Lessons learned.
 
mrbones said:
I'm interested in seeing the replies to you question because I think that some of the modifications being done to these motors is "questionable". I'm sure that Traxxas put a lot of thought into designing that motor and anyone who tells you that you can get a lot more performance out of it by modifying it is probably wrong. That is why everyone who wants more power usually installs a bigger motor because there is not that much to gain in modifications unless you are involved in extreme racing.
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Traxxas is a mass production company. Their goal is to produce engines that are reliable for even the RC noob. Not everybody out there has the skill and experience to run a full race bred engine without blowing it up, and Traxxas doesn't want 3/4 of their products being returned due to people not knowing what they're doing and breaking things. So, they run their engines as safe as possible.

It's just like real auto companies. Let's take Chevy for example. When they produce Camaros they are going for $$. It would cost them too much to hand tune every single engine, and push that engine to it's very limits to achieve max power. There are Always ways to mod your engine and achieve more power.
 
I wasn't trying to talk badly of you, but your reply was lacking important information and looked bad on me. I remember when you first started a few years back, and I did my best to help get you going. My current mods also far surpass what I did with your and Justin's, just saying. The reason I mentioned the OS is because if you open the nickle plating, there is a very high chance that it will lift and peel off the sleeve. Been there and done that 12-13 years ago, and things haven't changed, just a heads up.
 
Okay thank you for the heads up on the OS. Never worked on one before and this one is a spare/back up. Got it used and has a only a few gallons left on the piston and sleeve anyway. I will start with crank timing and see what I can get with that. Honestly haven't even timed out the motor yet to get a starting point on it do we will have to see.

I am sorry for the miss understandings in our posts I did my best to clarify.
 
It's good that you understand each other, peace!!!

---------- Post added at 10:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ----------

That's why all my cars I modify it by my self, but if you don't have enough time equipment and knowledge its good to let somebody do it for you.
 
I will say I have owned two engines Modded by Robin and a side bleed big block pipe. One was a Picco P3.28 and the other was an LRP .30. Both engines were super strong and I think ran a lot smoother after modded. The LRP was almost a light switch engine. All the power, all at once and no real in between. Once it was modded it was smooth top to bottom and the top end seemed better too. I don't think I saw much loss in fuel usage either....well the Picco maybe drinks a little more now but hey who cares it is a beast. The Side bleed big block pipe is BY FAR the best pipe I have ever ran. I was running a Ofna JP-3 and Robin 100% guaranteed I would get more power of of my engine...he was right. Sounds nasty too...:D
 
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frickenjoy- Yes LRP engines are strong I have Lrp zr30 spec2 on my buggy, Lrp z21R on my xt2 convert to onroad and I have Lrp s18R on my old Tamiya Tnx and they run very strong and I modified it by my self.
 

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