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Nitro engine modifiers

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All my mods are done by Neil at clockwork racing engines. I have never been happier with his mod work. Great place to deal with also. You can see his stuff on you tube just search clockwork racing that should bring up a ton of videos.
 
Thanks guys any advice, on what engine to go wit, right now I'm running a xtm .28 on a ofna ultra lx2, want more than what its giving me so I'm definetely going wit a upper end modded engine for somwwhere, just concerned if ima b runnung in to more problems running a modified engine I'm no serious racer or nothing just a basher in a group of bashers who doesn't mind betting on back yard drags and etc
 
I can only speak for my own experience as a basher. I wanted more power for my Savage x and i went to rb mods and got RB concepts St28 modded and I'm two gallons in and its still awesome performance and fuel economy.
 
Is the top end alot better than the stock 4.6, love my savage been thinking bout doing it rather than the buggy
 
Here is a video from the first couple runs it was a bit lean but worked out the tuning it was broke in up in Arkansas inside At RB mods and i swapped plugs and got suited for this FLA weather. Ill have another video up soon HPI just sent me a new 3speed setup and i upgraded the TVP's and rear drive shaft to an xl. It has no problem pulling wheelies on demand with the xl chassis.
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxA0xNVaMGg"]RB MODS, Rb Concept ST28 in my Savage X - YouTube[/ame]

---------- Post added at 9:42 PM ---------- Previous post was at 9:27 PM ----------

All the videos I've seen of the before mentioned modders looked awesome as well.
 
Thanks for info everyone, now I'm hearing modded .28 arent good for buggies due to the rpms

---------- Post added at 7:17 AM ---------- Previous post was at 7:16 AM ----------

That sucker nasty hows top end look great
 
The .28's are best left in the bigger/heavier machines imo. I think it would be overkill to drop an engine like this one into something half it's weight, and with nothing to really push against it's hard on the engine. This is a picco .28 with 20/47 gearing up from 17/47, when he geared up and gave the engine something to push, then the true power was exposed.

[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H7avqr04ogw&feature=player_embedded"]ERCM Picco 28 pullin wheelies into 3rd - YouTube[/ame]
 
holy crap enough said extreme mods .28 modded overkill on buggy soon as i finish my buggy i gotta have my savage done thats a monster
 
I'm interested in seeing the replies to you question because I think that some of the modifications being done to these motors is "questionable". I'm sure that Traxxas put a lot of thought into designing that motor and anyone who tells you that you can get a lot more performance out of it by modifying it is probably wrong. That is why everyone who wants more power usually installs a bigger motor because there is not that much to gain in modifications unless you are involved in extreme racing.
 
Please explain your opinion on the "questionable" mods, I will always entertain a conversation with an expert in the field of two stroke engines.
 
Any engine can be modified to perform better IMO. Especially a engine that is mass produced by a manufacturing company. Also from what I understand the two stroke engine is the easiest to mod for maximum output. These guys that race RC cars and trucks professionally should know best. Hell they base buisnesses off it!
 
This reply is directed to Extreme RC Mods.
I threw that statement out there hoping it would draw a response from someone like you. I want to hear the opinion of a professional such as yourself. My knowledge on motor building is from building and drag racing motorcycles, 2 and 4 stroke. First subject; When you remove a substantial amount of material from the crank weight, don't you also lose low end torque because you are reducing the kinetic energy? (you do on a 2 stroke motorcycle engine.) Or is the power to weight ratio on these little motors so great that it is insignificant? And after the crank has been modified, shouldn't it then be balanced? Last subject; Porting. Why would anyone port out an intake (or sleeve) and then polish it when they were done? All flow studies on engine porting state that the surface be left rough to create turbulence at the surface to reduce fuel pooling. These are some things I see going on with nitro motors mods that I either don't understand or don't approve of because of my experience with large motors.
 
Before we get to the questions I would like to point out that what I write here is what "I" do and has no bearing or relations to what other guys do, I'm only speaking for myself.

First subject, the Crank. I don't remove any material from the counter balance area of the crank, most any engine over a .21 has balance issues and removing material would only make it worse, I have done and seen it. Balancing a single side supported crank is almost impossible, these engines go out of balance 3-4 times across the rpm range, depending on the size and capabilities of the engine itself. Most have a bad vibration around idle and that is why I recommend NOT idling many tanks for break-in, it is really hard on the engine. The only work I do to the crank is in the induction window, by changing the timing of when the window opens and closes there are sometimes big gains to be made over stock.

Last subject, Porting. If your referring to "flow mods" I don't do those either, if all your doing is cutting flow cuts into the sleeve, your not letting any more air/fuel flow through the port as it's still has the stock restrictions. One other thing to keep in mind is that the more material you remove from inside the case, the more internal volume you have which means less pressure is built from the pistons down stroke. This will result in less pressure to push the air/fuel through the ports and into the cylinder which kills off power. As for polishing the surfaces, I don't do that either but I believe it is not as bad as a "gas" engine due to the fact that you have to run 4X more alcohol then gasoline, which causes everything to have a layer of fluid coating it anyways, it's a different situation all together.

I don't hack up engines and take peoples money, I have dedicated years to this craft of engine modding including designing my own full spectrum tuned pipes. Anyone who owns some of my products will tell you that there is no comparison between stock engines and pipes when compared to ERCM engines and pipes. :)
 
Very interesting read guys. Both questions and answers. I learn more everyday when I stumble upon threads like this. I don't mean to get in the middle of anyone's discusisions and be a bother in any way but by throwing an opinion in somewhere every now and then I get a lot of questions answered without knowing who or what to ask. I do have 2 engines that are paperweights right now and wouldn't mind doing some experimental modding and may end up doing so just to have more know how and what to and not to do ability under my belt.
 
Hi, I am a mechanic for modified real cars camaro, corvette, shellby and etc... And I had a LRP S8 BX2 WITH LRP ZR30 SPEC 2 ENGINE , XT2 with LRP Z21R ENGINE, SAVAGE with XTM 28 engine, XTM TRUGGY with SH 28 ENGINE and I do modified the engine by my self and I am happy with the result.
 
Well I've never been more than a helper at a radiator and ac shop as far as mechanics but I did go to tech school for the basics and I'm very mechanically inclined. I'm disabled now so I have nothing but time on my hands to play with these trucks I have. To be having a 2.5R and a 3.3 trx engine that both need rods and pistons I'm just determined to do something with them besides trash them. Reading some things on here gives me ideas of things to try involving a dremill and a steady hand. On the good side of it the engines are not of any importance to me so if i screw them up then nothing's lost. But if whatever I do or attempt is successful then he'll I have that much more knowledge under my belt for a hobby I love.
 

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