Newbie questions????

[1slo5oh]

Alrighty here it goes...and before I get flamed I did try using the search button with no luck in answering my question. So I need some knowledge droped on me. I have a Traxxas Revo 3.3 that I purchased from a friend a couple of weeks ago...Took it out the day I got it and the motor quit on me. I tried pulling the glow plug and spinning it over..even tried to skeet some after run oil down in the motor with no luck. So I took the motor off of the chassis and went to my LHS and started asking questions...I ended up walking out with a OS .21 TM..Now here is where my questions begin...

1) Is there anything in particular I need to make sure I do on the reinstall....I.E. meshing the gears up...reinstallin the clutch...etc,etc...

2) Once installed best procedure for first startup and break in...

The guy behind the counter told me to do about 6-7 "heat cycles"...run it up to 200* with short burst on the throttle and let her cool...then after the 6th or 7th heat cycle..start doing some higher speed runs to the same effect....200* and shut it down..does this sound right?

3) tuning out of the box motors...if it isnt a double pumper I am lost on carbs..especially ones this small...

whats the best place to start..factory settings and small increments from there? or????

I want this motor to last a little while so I want to do everything right the first time..

Thanks in advance

OH...and I forgot to add...I am a newb so take it easy on the abbreviations for a little bit...lol.

 

[Rolex]

It sounds like you're one of the lucky few with a fairly knowledgeable guy in the store.
There's a heat cycle post in the following thread along with lots of other info you'll be needing. In the future, if you need the info, it's posted as a sticky on top of the General Nitro forum.

https://www.rcnitrotalk.com/forum/showthread.php?t=60832

 

[1slo5oh]

Wow..lots of good information there..thanks for the link...its pretty cold here in Houston right now (30*..dont laugh..its cold enough that I can't wear flip flops) it is suppose to warm up a little this weekend..I would like to have enough to properly break this thing in so will try saturday to get it cranked

 

[Rolex]

Good choice to wait for a warm up. Breaking in an engine is ALL about temperature. Do it right, and you'll be rewarded with a long running dependable engine.

Say hello to my buddy Bing over in Green's Bayou.

 

[1slo5oh]

Good choice to wait for a warm up. Breaking in an engine is ALL about temperature. Do it right, and you'll be rewarded with a long running dependable engine.

Say hello to my buddy Bing over in Green's Bayou.

Will do if I run into him...

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Remember to put the engine to bottom dead center when you shut it off. Remove the glow plug, use a tooth pick or something else that will fit in the cylinder without breaking to easy or scratching it and move the flywheel until the piston's as low as it goes. Use a paint marker on the flywheel to mark a reference point.

 

[1slo5oh]

Remember to put the engine to bottom dead center when you shut it off. Remove the glow plug, use a tooth pick or something else that will fit in the cylinder without breaking to easy or scratching it and move the flywheel until the piston's as low as it goes. Use a paint marker on the flywheel to mark a reference point.

Sounds easy enough...but I have to ask why...will it help with the cooling or something?

 

[Metalhead Matt]

Keeps the sleeve from clamping down on the piston when it's coolin' off. Adds a lot of life to the engine.

 

[1slo5oh]

Keeps the sleeve from clamping down on the piston when it's coolin' off. Adds a lot of life to the engine.

Good to know.....thanks

-I have a question about this after run oil also....should I be putting this stuff in everytime I run it..or just when it is going to sit for long period of time? and what is considered a long period of time to you guys...lol. I really just want this thing to last a long time so whatever information I can soak up now before it starts is helpful

 

[Rolex]

It's a good habit to get into. You don't have to do it if you plan to run again tomorrow, but do it anyway just in case it rains or you get involved with someone new.
At least you'll know you're protected.

 

[1slo5oh]

It's a good habit to get into. You don't have to do it if you plan to run again tomorrow, but do it anyway just in case it rains or you get involved with someone new.
At least you'll know you're protected.

haha...yeah but I am confident that the wife wouldnt like me getting involved with anybody new...but yeah I will toss a little bit in just for peace of mind

 

[2revo1maxx]

haha...yeah but I am confident that the wife wouldnt like me getting involved with anybody new...but yeah I will toss a little bit in just for peace of mind

I like to use a little burst of wd 40 in the plug hole and carb for short term storage. It'll start easier because the wd will actually burn.

 

[revo_rob_1984]

I like to use a little burst of wd 40 in the plug hole and carb for short term storage. It'll start easier because the wd will actually burn.

i use wd-40 for my short term and my long term winter storage, and ever spring when its time to go out and play again, i charge my rx pack, fuel it up and hit the starter button and it fires up every time.

 

[1slo5oh]

Alright more questions...

I am trying to figure out this spur gear...If I am wanting a little more bottom end mid range oomph!! would I go with a spur gear with less teeth. And if that is the case what tooth spur gear should I be looking at?

 

[revo_rob_1984]

bigger spur gear will give you more bottom end and mid range but if you want top end you need a smaller spur and bigger CB

Rule of thumb: Big Clutchbell/Small Spur gear=GO FAST
Small Clutchbell/Big Spur gear= TAKE OFF FAST

 

[1slo5oh]

bigger spur gear will give you more bottom end and mid range but if you want top end you need a smaller spur and bigger CB

Rule of thumb: Big Clutchbell/Small Spur gear=GO FAST
Small Clutchbell/Big Spur gear= TAKE OFF FAST

ahhhhh...I see..I had it completly backwards..OK...then what tooth spur gear should I run..I want to say a 37 is on it now...if I counted right..haha.

 

[revo_rob_1984]

Its actually prolly a 38T on there now, which i believe is stock, if you want more punch off the line you need the 40T
http://www.buytraxxas.com/product_info.php?products_id=2169

 

[1slo5oh]

awesome..thats what I am looking for...I am not much into racing it...mainly because I can't drive very good but none the less I am more of a backyard basher so a 45mph truck does me no good...I just want something that accelerates well

 

[revo_rob_1984]

That'lll do ya then. I'm a "back yard" basher my self but i don't bash off road much, which is why my revo 3.3 is set up for on road, Picco .26, 17T CB, 36T SG, and if i had to guess it probably goes in the neighborhood of 50-55+ i do'nt know for sure i haven't had it on a GPS, or radar. . .yet

 

[2revo1maxx]

That'lll do ya then. I'm a "back yard" basher my self but i don't bash off road much, which is why my revo 3.3 is set up for on road, Picco .26, 17T CB, 36T SG, and if i had to guess it probably goes in the neighborhood of 50-55+ i do'nt know for sure i haven't had it on a GPS, or radar. . .yet

I'm gonna be radaring my revo first chance I get, I went for the 18/36 combo and it seems to have plenty of wheelie power still. I'll let you know what I come up with.