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new savage does not go enough

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T

tam13

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i just f9inished the idiling tank. now i put it on the ground and hold it at full throttle and it doesn't move enough. it revs up but it does not go fast enough to where it will move. i tried leaning it out and it gets it going a little but still not enough to the rest of the break in. also when ever i hit the brakes it shuts off. what is the problem?
 
Sounds like a few things. First off, you may want to do the first few driving tanks on pavement so it's easier to get going. The break-in settings are always quite rich so it's not easy to get it rolling. Plus you have to break in the clutch and tranny a bit. You may lean it out a bit, but don't let the temps get too high. Just over 200 at the glow plug.
And as far as the engine shutting down when you hit the brakes, first check your idle gap. Should hold at 1-2mm with the brake applied. It may be closing all the way which will kill the engine. Also check to make sure that the clutch bell and spur gear move freely and that there's no binding in that part of the drivetrain.
 
sounds like your idle is too low and something is too rich... it is supposed to be rich, but not to the point of not moving. Is the engine spitting tons of fuel out of the exhaust?
 
while it was on the idiling tank it was spitting alot of fuel out. it finnaly came alive alittle and is shifting into second gear now but i still dont think its at its full potential. its doing alot better and is finnaly moving well. could it just be that its too tight right now or should i lean it out a little more? i will check the idle gap right now.
 
I agree with candyman - your idle gap is too small and your transmitter idle trim is too high (allowing it to idle with a small idle gap). Put the motor back to factory settings by following these instructions (read the entire page before starting):

http://www.hpiracing.com/rcforum/showthread.php?threadid=68210

Put the truck on the ground with the motor OFF.

Push the truck forward. It should push forward easily. While pushing forward lightly and carefully touch the spur gear. You should be able to stop it from spinning while pushing forward.

Push the truck backwards. It should push backwards easily. While pushing backwards lightly and carefully touch the spur gear. You should NOT be able to stop it from spinning while pushing backwards. Be careful, do not catch a finger in there.

You also need to adjust the throttle trim on your radio. When the trim and the idle gap are correct holding full brake should allow it to idle normally. Releasing the throttle to the center neutral position should NOT cause the idle to increase.

I am a firm believer of properly configuring your trim and end point. This will give you maximum throttle travel on the transmitter which will result in better driveability. Ever wonder why some people say Nitro motors are just on/off power? Trims and end points are the answers.
 
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Normaly the stock setting are good, If you hit the gas and it falls down the engine probably still needs to be broke in more. Also, check your plug. Brake-in tanks can take a toll on the plugs.
 
Patience is a virtue when breaking in an engine. You can't expect it to run flawlessly for the first 10 tanks or so. Even then it won't be at full potential. You need to follow the break-in instructions very carefully or you can cause damage to the engine. So just be patient. Lean it a little after each tank for a few tanks and soon enough you'll find that it will come alive.
 
all i have to say is WOW! after running a few tanks and leaning little by little this thing has really come alive. it is hauling ass now. thnx alot guys for your help. i dont know what id do with out yall. LOL. also onemore question. on the box it said it included the 4 bevel gear and cam type servo saver. however i did not find them in the box. are they already installed on the truck?
 
yes they are probably already installed. look at the steering linkage, if it has a purple piece and spring, u have the upgraded steering. the diff mod ( 4 gear mod) is tougher to checkk. you'll need to take apart the truck and then break down the diffs to look...
 
The new Savage RTR with the two upgrades do not come installed. They are in plastic bags inside with separate instruction sheets. If they weren't in the box you didn't get them. Did you buy it mail order? It's possible someone removed the upgrdes before shipping...
 
yea it came from bruce at rushrc. he wouldnt do that would he? hes the one who told me that they were already installed and i dont see a purple thing witha spring on it so i guess its not on there but i have looked a thousand times and they were not in the box.
 
oh wait nvm i just checked more closely and yes it does have a purple thing with a spring. is that it?
 
I had the same problem with my SS, after about the 8th tank it finally came alive. I wish it had as much pull as my TMAXX did. I am going to go to the 47 spur gear / 16 bell.
 
According to HPI their 16/47 gears will not mesh correctly.

16/47 would be taller than the stock 15/49 gears. That means less acceleration.
 
Good catch, my LHS didn't tell me that when I picked them up. In the SS stock is 49 spur and 18 or 16 bell. I have 49/18 right now. I will move to the 16 instead and see what difference it makes. I guess the real problem is I want both accelration and top speed. I am from the TMAXX world with a 47 spur 16 bell that would rip. But it is a different engine and much lighter truck... I'll experiment.
 
The stock SS with the S-25 comes with a 49T spur, a 15T clutch bell for offroad and an 18T clutch bell for onroad.
 

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