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New REVO 3.3
- Thread starter jsu0234m
- Start date
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jnjritz
RCTalk Addict
Take your time in breaking it in.
After every run put your piston at bottom dead center.
And ask alot of questions!
Oh and enjoy the smell of nitro in the morning
And WELCOME TO RCNT!!!
After every run put your piston at bottom dead center.
And ask alot of questions!
Oh and enjoy the smell of nitro in the morning
And WELCOME TO RCNT!!!
MrClean
Hardcore RCTalk User
Keep your wits, sometimes the break-in can be very frustrating. I had luck using the Traxxas method for breaking in the motor, but consider using the heat cycling method. There is a good article as to why it is better for the motor. I'll see if I can find.
I used the heat cycle method on a second motor and found it to be much easier. It was for a different truck so I can't really compare longevity of the motors but it is definitely the way to go IMO.
I used the heat cycle method on a second motor and found it to be much easier. It was for a different truck so I can't really compare longevity of the motors but it is definitely the way to go IMO.
jnjritz
RCTalk Addict
Here ya go guys.. This is the heat cycle method. You can thank Rolex for it. It's his.
Heat cycling method of breaking in a new engine
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in using the "old school" method. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
BDC means Bottom Dead Center. This is when you roll the crank until the piston is at the very bottom of the crank case. Before you install your new engine look at the piston through the exhaust and when the piston is at the bottom put a mark on the flywheel. This will make it easy to set the piston to BDC.
Heat cycling method of breaking in a new engine
If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys recommend anymore.
From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this manner for about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your engine will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.
You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory settings are very rich on every engine I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 OS engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in using the "old school" method. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.
BDC means Bottom Dead Center. This is when you roll the crank until the piston is at the very bottom of the crank case. Before you install your new engine look at the piston through the exhaust and when the piston is at the bottom put a mark on the flywheel. This will make it easy to set the piston to BDC.
- Thread starter
- #5
Thanks guys, ill make sure to do the heat cycling method. It sounds like it may be a little funner for me because I'm excited to drive this thing. haha Does it matter how much throttle i give during these 2-3 minute sessions or is it just don't run it too hot? Thanks
Also when they say race tuning, what does this mean? I know it needs to be tuned after break in, is that what they are referring too? Sorry, The electric RC cars i had before never needing engine tuning.
Also when they say race tuning, what does this mean? I know it needs to be tuned after break in, is that what they are referring too? Sorry, The electric RC cars i had before never needing engine tuning.
race tuning=tuning for power
jnjritz
RCTalk Addict
Yes the race tuning means Tune it after break in.. As for how much throttle. Just don't go nuts with it. Go and run it normally but do not over do anything (don't hold WOT) Just go ez.
I have my own way to break in an engine It's a mixture of Traxxas and heat cycle.
- Thread starter
- #8
Thanks Guys, it is supposed to be at the house waiting on me. I have to work second shift this week so i wont get off until 12 tonight, so i'll probably be up all night playing with it. haha
Another question guys, what kind of batteries or battery packs should i need. Its supposed to be ready to run, but my boat still needed 7.2 volt battery packs when i got it. I just want to be prepared. haha I got a couple 7.2 volt packs, but I'm not sure if these will even be used. Sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks
Another question guys, what kind of batteries or battery packs should i need. Its supposed to be ready to run, but my boat still needed 7.2 volt battery packs when i got it. I just want to be prepared. haha I got a couple 7.2 volt packs, but I'm not sure if these will even be used. Sorry if this is a dumb question. Thanks
swarmjt
RCTalk Addict
not a dumb question at all. Nitros use a "Hump Pack" for the receiver. those 7.2 batteries can be used for the "Starter Wand". THe Nitro's run on a special gas mixture that can be purchased at your LHS.
I hope this answers your question enough.
Keep em coming.. we were all started just like you are now and lord knows we have asked HUNDREDS of questions. Even expirienced RC guys are always asking questions, so never be afraid or ashamed of asking questions
swarmjt
RCTalk Addict
in the controller they do?? i dont know about the vehicle though..
liftedcj7on44s
RCTalk Champion
The newer Revo 5308 can use either AA's or a 5 cell flat pack.
- Thread starter
- #13
I got one of my roommates to open the box and tell me what he saw. He figured out that they use 8 AA's in the controller and it has a generic 4 AA battery holder in the receiver that can be switched out for the 5 cell flat pack. Thanks guys
- Thread starter
- #14
Just broke the REVO in, and then broke a front A arm. haha I was doing a little jumping and my ramp had a lag bolt in it and the head hit my front right A arm and broke it. I guess it was just fate because i checked it and there wasn't anyway i could see it hitting my A arm to begin with, poop happens though. haha
Alright for the real question now that it is broke in, when i open it up hard it boggs down and will quit running if i dont let off, whats happening here guys? Its boggs down hard too, like it isn't getting any fuel, if i dont let off it goes dead quick.
Oh and by the way REVO is a bad son of a b**ch, it will carry the front wheels with the break in tuning on in it. I couldn't even get it to run with the factory setting in it either, i had to run the high speed needle at about 2 and half turn out instead of 4 and the low speed needle at factory to get it to run. As soon as i get a new A arm I'm gonna try and tune on it a little better, it doesn't like to idle right now.
Alright for the real question now that it is broke in, when i open it up hard it boggs down and will quit running if i dont let off, whats happening here guys? Its boggs down hard too, like it isn't getting any fuel, if i dont let off it goes dead quick.
Oh and by the way REVO is a bad son of a b**ch, it will carry the front wheels with the break in tuning on in it. I couldn't even get it to run with the factory setting in it either, i had to run the high speed needle at about 2 and half turn out instead of 4 and the low speed needle at factory to get it to run. As soon as i get a new A arm I'm gonna try and tune on it a little better, it doesn't like to idle right now.
judging by your needle settings and description of performance, i'd say you are way too lean and hot as all get out. go back to factory on the HSN (after a new control arm of course) then move it in slow till you no longer get a gain at top end, then back it back out a 1/16 of a turn to be just on the fat side of peak (slightly rich) From factory and with clean obstruction free filters and exhaust, you should not have to turn more than about a half turn back lean. (should) once it runs good at wot with the hsn adjustments, then tweak your lsn and idle to get it to pur when you're off the gas.
as far as revo specific newbie info....just keep reading this forum and other peoples' questions. You answers are in here and some for questions you didn't eve know you had yet. Enjoy and happy racing.
as far as revo specific newbie info....just keep reading this forum and other peoples' questions. You answers are in here and some for questions you didn't eve know you had yet. Enjoy and happy racing.
- Thread starter
- #19
It will run if i have the HSN closer to 2.5 turns out, which seems to me to be lean but it smokes like a train. haha I'm gonna do some more driving and tuning as soon as i get my A arms in. It runs good now, just boggs down when it gets hammered hard on the throttle. it will carry the front wheels now most of the time, but it doesn't seem to be running too hot i mean it doesn't feel to hot to the touch, i can hold my hand on the block for 5 seconds at least. That prolly doesn't mean anything, haha.
MrClean
Hardcore RCTalk User
Actually that does mean something, that it's running pretty cool. I like using a temp gauge to verify that, but once you get to the mid to upper 200s it's hard to keep your hand on the cooling head. If you still have a good trail of smoke, good launch from a dead stop and it idles well, you don't have to worry too much about the turns on the needles. When the humidity here goes up and down like it does, I have to make pretty significant HSN adjustments.