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JaReD116

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Ok, i am thinking of getting a new engine for my xxx-nt. I am having all sorts of problems with the mach .15 I am thinking of getting the OS .15 or .12 cv-x. what do you guyes think of these engines? Are they reliable and farly easy to tune? I am not looking to really race that much. Just drive on the track at my house till i start to get good:p:. Will one of these engines drop right in to my xxx-nt?
 
The OS engines are known the world over for their extreme reliablity, durablity, and awesome performance. they are extremely easy to tune, hold the tune well, run cool, and are most likely the best engine ever made. It is impossible to go wrong with any of the mills they make. the CV engine is a lengend i the nitro rc world. If you can afford the price increase, go with the CV-R models instead though. the cost is only about 40 dollars more, and the horsepower increase is double that of the CV model. if you cannot afford the R model, stick with the cv as itself is an awesome performer. dont let the HP numbers fool you, OS underrates them. They also offer both mills in any configuration u can imagine. For the XXXNT, pick the one with the standard shaft, and a barrel carb. It is a direct replacement, with no mods needed.

Congrats!
 
I second the O.S. recomendation. There will be many who will third and fourth and so on. This is because they rock. I will also agree with NA to get the CV-R. It will be worth the extra cash. The CV is a good mill, but I don't like the head. I don't think that it is offers sufficient cooling. The CV-R has a fine head though.
 
Ok thanks guys, i think i will take a look at the R. IF i do get the cv could i use the fly wheel and clutch and everything from my mach for the new one? Would i also be able to use the pipe for those engines?NA what do you mean by standard shaft?
 
You will be able to use the all the parts from your old setup.
If you are thinking about racing you will need to go with the .12.
Tracks that use ROAR rules will not let you race with a non stock .15. A good .12 will give you all the power and speed needed plus more.

You can get the shaft in (S) Standard or (L) Long. Yours will use the (S).
 
Originally posted by xxxnt116
Ok thanks guys, i think i will take a look at the R. IF i do get the cv could i use the fly wheel and clutch and everything from my mach for the new one? Would i also be able to use the pipe for those engines?NA what do you mean by standard shaft?

yes all the parts from the mach, will fit the OS, including the pipe and header.

OS makes every engine in three formats, so it can fit any car.
  • Standard shaft - the crankshaft is the normal threaded variety.
  • SG or Short shaft - the shaft is cut short to fit Associated cars.
  • Pilot shaft - the threads end halfway down the shaft.
 
what are the performance differences between the 12 and the 15? Why should i get one and not the other? Besides the racing factor. Does the 15 have more power and torque, and the 12 have more speed? what is the difference? And by the way, thanks for all the help on this subject:)
 
the 12 and 15 represent the displacement of the engine. .12ci and .15ci

the 12 cvr puts out 1.0hp, the .15 puts out 1.2hp and considerably more torque. i have driven both, and the difference is quite noticable. if u will not be racing in a ROAR event, get the .15 - if u plan on racing ROAR within the next year or so, get the .12 as the 15 is too big to race with.
 
i have a xxx-nt coming in a few days with an '03 fantom .12 in it.
not too many people have these i think (at least not as many as OS) but i heard they are great. ill let you know how i like it when the truck comes.
 
banshee - the fantom engine is a great engine, but is lacking on the bottom end torque. Not a big deal for off road but can kill your lead in a touring car race.
 
The fantom is a great engine, but it is really geared for top end. You can compensate for that with changing CB's or spur gears and a good pipe. If the fantom is in good shape, you wont be disappointed, especially with the newly designed 03. It has a much better carb then the 02.
 
speed is increased or decreased primarily through gearing, by installing a hotter engine, u will see a small increase in top end, but acceleration is really where u will see the difference.
 
Should i get new gearing for this motor? Or should i run what came stock?
 
i would stick with stock gearing for now. once u install it and the truck is up and running, u might want to drop a tooth, that will increase top end a bit. this isnt a nessesity though.
 
Here is the NEW ROAR rules where .15 nitro engine are legal as long as there are not the Big Block type like the Traxxas 2.5. Leave you options open as there will be .15 you can race

ROAR 2003 Nitro rules:
31
NITRO FUEL RULES
6-1: The minimum acceptable outer barrier for 1/10 off-road is 1/2” x 4” plywood. For 1/10 onroad
and 1/8 off and on-road, the minimum is 3/4” x 8” plywood. The minimum for any scale oval
track is 3/4” x 11 7/8” plywood (see Rule 1-27 for additional information). The ends of the barrier
must be linked so that no sharp edges or overlaps face the direction of travel.
6-2: Interior lane markers should be 2” x 4” boards, or similar material, on edge, and should be
anchored to the race surface. On off-road courses, 3” smooth PVC pipe is acceptable.
6-3: Fuels will contain only methanol, nitromethane, and a lubricant. The following additives are
specifically prohibited: hydrazine, hydrogen peroxide, propolene oxide, and toluene. Old fuel, not
stored in the original container, can become unstable and should not be used
6-4: Fuel tanks must be securely mounted. Maximum fuel system capacities are 75cc for .12,
80cc for .15 engines, and 125cc for .21 engines. For measurement purposes, 1cc is equal to 1ml.
6-5: Any carburetor may be used as long as the bore does not exceed the maximum allowable for
the engine size. Restrictors may be used to achieve the legal diameter, but must be securely
fastened in place.
6-6: There are two approved ways to determine the fuel capacity of a vehicle. The first way is by
pouring the correct amount into the vehicle's system, and the second way pumps the fuel out of
the vehicle's system into a measurement container. The Race Director must insure that all waste
fuel is disposed of properly. To check a tank capacity the first way, drain all fuel from the system
including fuel and pressure lines. Pinch off the pressure line at the tank, and disconnect the fuel
line from the carburetor. Using a graduated cylinder, measure the proper amount of the driver’s
fuel and pour it into the tank, allowing fuel line and filter to fill. The fuel should fill the tank to the
top of the filler neck, or to a point where fuel overflows or is forced out when the lid is closed. If it
does not, the tank is oversize and must have an insert added to bring it down to legal capacity.
The graduated cylinder is read at the bottom of the center of the curve when viewed from the side
of the cylinder at eye level.
To check the tank capacity the second way, fill the tank to the top of the filler neck. Make sure
all fuel lines are full. Attach a fuel pump or large capacity syringe to the end of the tank-to-engine
fuel line. Transfer the fuel completely out of the vehicle's system into a graduated cylinder or
another accurate liquid measuring device. (Reading a graduated cylinder is described above, in
this rule.) If there is more fuel retrieved than allowed, the tank is too big and an insert must be
used to reduce the tank capacity.
6-7: Any type of bearings and any connecting rods may be used,(except ceramics).
6-8: Engines must be of single cylinder, two stroke, air cooled, glow plug design. Only one single
throat carburetor is permitted. No supercharging or turbocharging is allowed. Only standard glow
plugs with 1/4-32 thread, using a .25” gasket, will be allowed in .12 and .15 engines. Turbo style
plugs are permitted only in .15 Open and .21 Open engines.
6-9: Cars must have brakes in working condition capable of stopping and holding them
motionless with the engine running. Cars must also have an operational de-clutching device.
6-10: Increasing the displacement of a .12 engine to .15 by changing or modifying the piston,
sleeve, and head is illegal unless the new displacement is permanently indicated on the head.
6-11: Exhaust port height is the distance from the top of the piston, at bottom dead center, to the
highest point of the exhaust port on the piston side of the sleeve. Shims may be used to adjust
exhaust port height.
6-12: To determine the displacement of an engine measure the diameter of the bore, divide this
number by 2, square the number, and multiply the result by Pi (3.1416). This result is then
multiplied by the stroke. To calculate the stroke measure the distance from the top of the sleeve
to the top of the piston at its bottom most position in the engine (bottom dead center) and subtract
the distance from the top of the sleeve to the top of the piston at its upper most position (top dead
center). As an example, if the bore measures .55” and the calculated stroke is .543” Then: .55/2 =
.275, .275 x .275 = .075625, .07625 x 3.1416 = .2376, .2376 x .543 = .1290cu.in. .1290 is the
maximum legal size of a .12 engine. An engine with the same stroke but measuring .595” in bore
would yield a displacement of .151cu.in., legal for a .15 engine but not legal as a .12.
6-13: All cars are required to use a muffler or tuned pipe through which the exhaust gas must
pass. Exhaust discharge must be parallel to the ground or lower. The maximum allowable sound
level is 85 decibels, measured at a ninety degree angle to the side of the car from a distance of 33
feet, 3 feet above the ground, with the car at maximum throttle and at all speeds. A Radio Shack
sound meter (Part #33-2055) or equivalent should be used to check the sound level.
6-14: Muffler outlet pipe must be a round, constant diameter tube, with the end cut at 90 degrees
to its centerline.
6-15: An industrial quality dial or digital caliper or go/no-go gauges should be used to check
engine specifications.
6-16: A car that loses its muffler will be black-flagged and not scored until repairs are made.
6-17: Variable exhaust timing, porting, or exhaust pipes with moveable parts are not allowed.
6-18: All gearboxes must be on a single shaft. Multiple-speed transmissions are allowed for
some on-road classes (see vehicle specifications), but not for off-road racing. Automatic or
variable overdrive systems are not allowed.
6-19: Hydraulic drive systems are not allowed.
6-20: Antennas must be the flexible type. Roll-over antennas are not permitted in any class.
6-21: In case of servo or linkage failure, cars must incorporate a positive action return spring
attached directly to the carburetor throttle arm to provide positive closure. Use of "fail safe" radio
systems is highly recommended.
6-22: A pit lane that has a convenient and safe exit from, and entrance back to the racing surface
will be provided. This area is to be used for refueling and repair of cars. There must be a safety
wall between the pit lane and the working pits. All refueling and repairs to the cars will be
accomplished in the working pits, and not in the pit lane. During qualifying, one pit member per
car will be allowed in the working pits. During the mains, two are allowed.
6-23: Engines, fuel tank capacities, carburetors, and other specifications may be checked at any
time by any event official.
6-24: Open flame or smoking is prohibited within 50 feet of areas where fuel is present.
 
With an off road truck your not looking for speed. It is real easy to over power the XXX-Nt. I'm running the .12 CV-R and it is way over powered. I have to loosen the slipper just to get traction from a stand still and to correct for torque steer. Don't get me wrong, the power is great to have but rarely used on the track.

I would concentrate more on getting skilled at driving and setting up your ride more than on how fast can I get it to go.

Remember speed is nothing without control.
 
I like this .15 but its pricey
.15 RB X-Engine (ROAR Legal) $375.00 $284.95
.15 RB X-Engine (ROAR Legal) Rody Modified\TEAM (Sp O) $650.00 $479.95
rb1602.gif
 
thats what i am gonna do fast eddy. I built a small track at my house so that i could practice on, for a long time hehe. I am not that concerned with speed. With the mach engine that was fast enough i thought. I just want good performance out of the engine. And long life. I probly wont go race for, another year or so. By then i will probly need a new engine.
 
humboldt - i read that whole post - and still see no where it says that you can use a modified .15 - The only .15 u can use is a stock RTR mill.

BTW - the traxxas 2.5 is not a big block.
 
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