• Welcome to RCTalk! 🚀

    Join the #1 RC community where hobbyists connect, share, and get expert advice on RC cars, trucks, boats, drones, and more!

    • Friendly & passionate RC enthusiasts
    • RC tips & troubleshooting
    • Buy, sell & trade RC gear
    • Share builds & upgrades

New 3.3 engine to seal.

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

D arrow

RCTalk Qualifier
Messages
144
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Location
Texas
RC Driving Style
  1. Bashing
Last edited:
I would put some green slime or dielectric grease on the carb, backplate, and needle o-rings and run it. It's very rare to get a new engine with an air leak, but checking for bits of metal on the inside is a great idea. Rtv is messy, and I won't seal anything with rtv until it shows symptoms of a leak.

IMO the rtv is too messy, but if you get some lucky seven engine sealant you can simply apply it around the backplate and other areas without taking your engine apart.
 
i havent done mine yet (hoping mine turns up in the next week) but apply a thin layer around the back of the motor where the backplate touches. when i say think i mean less than paper thin as the more u use on there the more that is gonna go everywhere and u dont need or want that. and not sure about the carb neck and i think associated green slim is best for the needles as u dont want that getting hard.
 
BP sealed, Tiger Drive, F. Wheel, & C. Bell on. forgot to get carb sealant but, will get it tom to seal it as well. I sure hope I did the BP sealing good enough, I used a darn tooth pick to create a small bead to minimized over apps. Pls let me know what's your take on the seal job, thx in advance folks.

View attachment 11079

View attachment 11080

View attachment 11081
 
Last edited:
Yup, looks good. Did you look around inside the engine for any stray metal bits?
You can get dielectric grease just about anywhere for the needles and carb o-rings.....it's just silicone grease. I would take some rtv and cover up the carb pinch bolt too.
 
Yup, looks good. Did you look around inside the engine for any stray metal bits?
You can get dielectric grease just about anywhere for the needles and carb o-rings.....it's just silicone grease. I would take some rtv and cover up the carb pinch bolt too.

Thx for the good comment. Yes, I took heads off felt inside the sleevs, look around & even gave it a good burst of air. I did not have time today to seal carbs but will do it tom, would you mind sending me pics of the carb sealant you're talking about, I will seal PB Tom as well. Thx in advance.

---------- Post added at 9:05 PM ---------- Previous post was at 8:57 PM ----------

looks neat to me

Thx for the comments R5309, I enjoyed watching those bash vids you posted awhile back. Man, you guys bashed them things like there ain't no tomorrow.
 
lol, the vids iv taken are nothing compared to what its taken.... new motor and poop going in soon so i think ill start being a bit more careful... stuff have fun tho. just no huge ass jumps and cartwheels.
 

I went to my LHS and, they were out of lucky 7. what kind can I get just from auto parts store, can you give names nor may be some pics too? Sorry for all the asking, thx in advance.

---------- Post added at 1:41 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:33 PM ----------

lol, the vids iv taken are nothing compared to what its taken.... new motor and poop going in soon so i think ill start being a bit more careful... stuff have fun tho. just no huge ass jumps and cartwheels.

I agree on that bud, keep us posted on your new Nitro Engine.
 
Permatex copper RTV sealant, any auto parts store will have it and it works well too.

Is it like a grease type sealant without it hardning? I just don't want to use the kind of sealant on Carb that sets & hardens. thx in advance.
 
How tight do you torque down the head bolts on the block? (5 Soc head cap screws) thx in advance.

---------- Post added at 7:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 7:50 PM ----------

I am fixin to test fit the banger on the truck, will take some pics.
 
I use a round handle 2.5mm driver and almost as much torque as I can get on it with that tool. The important thing is to tighten them evenly, a little at a time.
 
I use a round handle 2.5mm driver and almost as much torque as I can get on it with that tool. The important thing is to tighten them evenly, a little at a time.

Thanks for the advise 2r1m, Wow. I was amazed of the difference with my old unsealed 3.3 compare new sealed 3.3, I mean WOW!!!!!! are you kiddindg me? the darn Truck wants to pop wheelies every time I it a gas, Hesch it even wants to do a flips from a stand still. HoooolllllMoOOlllllyyyyy Hachet man. thx These Truck is bashing madd.

View attachment 11100

View attachment 11101

View attachment 11102

View attachment 11103
 
Last edited:
I would say it's mainly from being a new engine, but it's good to hear you got 'er runnin good. Now it's up to you to make it run like that for 5+ gallons.;)
 
I would say it's mainly from being a new engine, but it's good to hear you got 'er runnin good. Now it's up to you to make it run like that for 5+ gallons.;)

I hear you on that. Now that I have you folk's more input, it's just more bullet for me to use if these thing acts up on me. :D You guys are awesome, keep'em coming.:first_place:
 
Yall ever here of Hylamar, made esp for Rolls Royce, should be able to find it on a search. Used where there are two flat surfaces with no gaskets. Use VERY sparingly RTV has its purpose but not on these engines, I would use soft Permatex before I would use any kind of silicone.
 
Last edited:
Back
Top